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You can knock the rotor lips off with a grinder also if the rotors are otherwise still in spec.
There's at least a 1/8th inch lip.. I'm pretty sure they're out of spec.
Looks liek I've got a local friend who'll be helping with this. Plenty of experiences on his part. Suggests we should try re-packing and adjusting wheel bearing fit.
Right now, it looks like I may go with the Frozen Rotors and Hawk or Akebono. He's trying to talk me out of the slotted rotors though, he's has experience with both drilled and slotted rotors cracking.
There's at least a 1/8th inch lip.. I'm pretty sure they're out of spec.
Looks liek I've got a local friend who'll be helping with this. Plenty of experiences on his part. Suggests we should try re-packing and adjusting wheel bearing fit.
Right now, it looks like I may go with the Frozen Rotors and Hawk or Akebono. He's trying to talk me out of the slotted rotors though, he's has experience with both drilled and slotted rotors cracking.
I went with the slotted rotors. FWI-The oem front rotors are drilled.
There's at least a 1/8th inch lip.. I'm pretty sure they're out of spec.
Looks liek I've got a local friend who'll be helping with this. Plenty of experiences on his part. Suggests we should try re-packing and adjusting wheel bearing fit.
Right now, it looks like I may go with the Frozen Rotors and Hawk or Akebono. He's trying to talk me out of the slotted rotors though, he's has experience with both drilled and slotted rotors cracking.
Rotors should only warp/crack under extreme stress/heat, which would most likely be experienced in track (not street use).
Not saying it couldn't happen but, for street use, I doubt that it's a serious issue.
I've used drilled and slotted rotors on a lot of cars in my time strictly for street use and NONE of them ever warped or cracked, even though I can be very hard on the brakes in my cars.
Quick question, folks. The person who will be assisting has advised to replace the screws that hold the rotor in place due to possible rust, seizing, etc.
I'm assuming these are #5 in the image, 900 269 047 01?
We've got the rotors and pads ordered. Local dealer has quoted searings, vibration dampers, spacers, seal, pad sensors... and add these screws I guess? Any other parts that commonly need to or should be replaced?
Looks like you've got it. 600 grit is nice to polish the spindle where the seal rides. Mercedes uses/sells 100ml tubes of synthetic wheel bearing grease. Check but it should be 80 per.
I am not much for beating the grease cap on the hub as its pretty much the same as beating on the bearing. Any puller will work to push the cap back on.
Check the strut to see if it's loose on the internal races...ie knee action
09-15-2019, 04:50 PM
