biosurfer1

Finally getting off my butt and fixing my clutch cylinders. Read through a few DIY articles and seems pretty straight forward but time consuming. I'm about to pull the slave cylinder, got the starter off, removed the to bolts holding the cylinder on and about to release the hose at the top of the slave cylinder and thought I better check to see if anything needs to be bled to prevent tons of brake fluid rushing out? My hose blew and it dropped a ton of fluid already but I'd rather not have a super fund site in my garage if I can bleed it out the nipple before hand, or if there's only a small amount in there I can just wipe it up.

biosurfer1

Well I just went for it and thankfully, only a small amount of brake fluid came out. I got the slave out now.

Next is the hose in between. I'm having issues getting the hard line unscrewed out of the master cylinder. I can't get my hands in there to unscrew it. The hard line from the AC hose is in the way ... any advice? I can sort of get wrench in there but can only turn it a tiny amount. I'm actually more worried about how I'm going to get it back in there.

Isaacsracing

You are working on the nut shown in the picture that is at the end of the master cylinder. It's not easy. Either be patient or remove the clutch master cylinder and then remove the hose with it out of the car.


One of the biggest challenges of this job will be getting the system bled well. Seems like that should be routine, but it is not easy to get air out of the clutch hydraulics. One thing that people do (I haven't but I might next time) is try to fill the master and slave while they are out of the car and then at least the system starts with less air.

Yogii

Will you be rebuilding the clutch and slave or replacing?

Thanks,

Yogii
968 Novice

biosurfer1

Isaac...yes, a lot of patience seems to be the only way. I can only get maybe 1/8 of a turn each time I get the wrench on there and of course, its threaded on a long way. I still havent battled the pin on the clutch pedal yet otherwise I would try taking the cylinder out of the car before removing the hose. At least I can attach it before installing the new one.

Yogii...replacing the master, rebuilding the slave. The master is about $80 new, the slave is over $350 most places now. Not sure why the price went parabolic last year.

biosurfer1

Well ****. I was finally able to get the hose off the master cylinder but I think I really messed up. When trying to pull the hose out, I didn't realize its actually 2 hoses. One hard/soft line from the master cylinder, and that threads into another hard line that then goes to the slave..correct? I was trying to pull the old hose out and did not disconnect the two hoses because I figured I would be replacing both, but it appears the hard line has a clip that is screwed onto the engine block? It is buried crazy deep and I can't get to the nut to disconnect it. I have a feeling I was supposed to leave the hard line in place and only remove the soft/hard hose? I think I bent the hard line up pretty good so now I'm stuck not being able to get the hard line out and don't think it can be reused.

Any advice? I honestly can't see how you could disconnect the clip holding the hard line in without removing the engine or a TON of parts

1933beer

A few years back I replaced both of my cylinders, but not the lines. I used one of the flexible ratchet wrenches. As for how to get the line out there is a utube video by a German guy that does the line as well. He shows how to adjust and bleed as well. Getting the system bled is a pain.

Yogii

Parts diagrams are your friend.

-Yogii
AKA 968 Novice

thomasmryan

the O2 sensor is clipped to the hard line near the slave cylinder....or should be.

do clamp the new blue line at the master prior to installation.

if you leave the master loose, it is easier to get the flex line union started.

the fender side master mount isn't to bad to access but the inboard required three different brands of wrenches to make one turn. moving the engine harness plug connection helps.

be sure to position the flex line so it doesn't rub the booster. (that is how mine failed)

bleeding can be challenging....raising the rear of the car helps and the oil squirt can method from the slave works.