biosurfer1

Not sure if any of you have noticed the recent skyrocketing of our clutch slave cylinders but they are now ~$350 and still climbing.

I think I saw someone post that all the internals were the same as a mid 90's Sprinter van and they just switched the housing since one of the bleeder valves was in the wrong place. Anyone try this? Anyone have any luck rebuilding from a kit?

I know in the past rebuilding may or may not have been looked down upon but with prices heading in only one direction lately, seems prudent to persue other avenues.

Boeing 717

It does sound more fun than just swapping with a new one.

Eric_k

I rebuilt the clutch slave on my street car this year. It is easy. The readily available rebuild kits for the later 944 work with the 968 slave. It is basically the same slave with just the bleed nipple relocated for the 968.

chudson

The important thing is the condition of the bore. Since brake fluid is hygroscopic, the accumulation of moisture in the bore can cause more pitting than a hone can remove. Other than that rebuilding is a very simple process.

sm

chudson

The rubber seal wears and fails and/or the bore becomes pitted from water intrusion (rust) and inhibits the seals ability to seal. And far less likely, but there is the slim possibility that some incorrect fluid or other contaminate that the seal is not compatible with gets introduced into the system and causes the seal to fail.

sm

Eric_k

Around $15. In my case the rubber seal was hardened and shot allowing air in. It would only stay bled for a few pedal pumps before I rebuilt it.
https://www.paragon-products.com/Clu...116.901.00.htm

Here is guy doing it on youtube:

biosurfer1

Wow, thanks Erik. I had spent some time looking around YouTube and hadn't found that. $15 is well worth the attempt and if for some reason it doesn't work, just some time lost.

sm

dfheezy

I've had my 968 less than a month, and I've had to be careful not to press the clutch pedal too far.

I am 6'4" so the first time I happened, it got stuck and I had to reach down to pull it back. At times it seems to have lost pedal pressure while resetting it. But has not left me stranded yet...

The clutch grabs nicely, but this discussion of the cylinder mechanism has me thinking it's suspect. The car did sit for the last 10 years and now it needs some TLC...

I might as well learn how to rebuild one myself. Cheers!

mj951

There's also a metal pin that holds/connects the clutch pedal to the pedal arm that over time wears down and develops some edges that will catch the pedal assembly and hold it down as you describe. It's a known problem and with a search you may find other discussions on it here.
It's a pain in butt to replace but you'll want to check that before going through and rebuilding your slave. Given your height (and mine) you'll want to remove the drivers seat to complete this job. You'll be laying on your back with your arms over your head to mess with the assembly.

Here's the part i'm referring to that may need to be replaced... https://www.paragon-products.com/Clu...423.387.00.htm
And an image of the assembly...the pin isn't numbered (identified) in this image but it's next to and runs through parts #14,15,16 and 17.... https://www.paragon-products.com/Clu...21.721.191.htm

chudson

dfheezy - if there is no loss of clutch fluid on your car, you are describing an issue with the master cylinder whether it be the pin that has been discussed or (more likely in my opinion) the seals in the master failing. I have seen the pin wear but have yet to personally see a car where it caused a sticking pedal. Not saying that it can't, just saying that I have yet to experience that. A sticking slave can't remedied by pulling the clutch pedal back up.

Try this. Sit in the car and slowly depress the clutch pedal about 1 inch at a time and you may need a little up and down motion as you are depressing it meaning, depress it an inch or so, let it up a little and then repeat. If you feel a loss of pressure and/or you can eventually get the pedal to stay on the floor, then it's a master.

Cliff

Jfrahm

Have you checked the brake (shared with the clutch) fluid level? Low fluid can cause a dropped clutch pedal, I am not sure why.

chudson

Joel - only if the fluid gets low enough to allow air into the master cylinder and if that occurs, there is likely a leak somewhere.

Cliff