968 - best way to drain the fuel?
09-26-2017, 11:40 PM
#1
968 - best way to drain the fuel?
Hey Team,
My Dad has a 968 that has been sitting for ~3 years due to family/health circumstances. Now comes the time to fire it up again. First step is to remove the very old gas. Is there an easy way to do this? I am not familiar with the 968 and I want to get some guidance before my 77 yr old father gets under the car (he is in WI, I am in CA). He told me of his plan on the phone tonight and I am hoping to get some insight from this group to help him out before he jumps in!
Any other "get it going after a long rest" advice is also appreciated. On this car the timing belt, water pump, etc were replaced about 6 years ago (and maybe 10k miles ago).
THanks in advance.
Tom
My Dad has a 968 that has been sitting for ~3 years due to family/health circumstances. Now comes the time to fire it up again. First step is to remove the very old gas. Is there an easy way to do this? I am not familiar with the 968 and I want to get some guidance before my 77 yr old father gets under the car (he is in WI, I am in CA). He told me of his plan on the phone tonight and I am hoping to get some insight from this group to help him out before he jumps in!
Any other "get it going after a long rest" advice is also appreciated. On this car the timing belt, water pump, etc were replaced about 6 years ago (and maybe 10k miles ago).
THanks in advance.
Tom
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porbuff33 (11-09-2021)
09-27-2017, 08:18 AM
#2
Disconnect the negative at the battery.
Remove the passenger rear tire and set a jackstand under the torsion bar.
There is a deep 13 up in the fender well for the strap that holds the protective cover.
If its just a few gallons, loosen the strainer to pump supply at the pump and drain. You can regulate the flow by pinching the hose with a suitable clamp that won't damage the hose.
There is still a half gallon lurking below the strainer. Strainers do strip out of he plastic tank so take that into consideration. You can suck it out with a hand siphon or take a long lint free towel twisted to fit into the hole into the bottom of the tank. Place the other end into a bucket below the tank and it will suck I out by calipary action.
Replace the lines and filter as reuired. After reassembly, you can flush the lines with fresh fuel by jumpering the DME relay.
Remove the passenger rear tire and set a jackstand under the torsion bar.
There is a deep 13 up in the fender well for the strap that holds the protective cover.
If its just a few gallons, loosen the strainer to pump supply at the pump and drain. You can regulate the flow by pinching the hose with a suitable clamp that won't damage the hose.
There is still a half gallon lurking below the strainer. Strainers do strip out of he plastic tank so take that into consideration. You can suck it out with a hand siphon or take a long lint free towel twisted to fit into the hole into the bottom of the tank. Place the other end into a bucket below the tank and it will suck I out by calipary action.
Replace the lines and filter as reuired. After reassembly, you can flush the lines with fresh fuel by jumpering the DME relay.
09-27-2017, 08:39 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Disconnect the negative at the battery.
Remove the passenger rear tire and set a jackstand under the torsion bar.
There is a deep 13 up in the fender well for the strap that holds the protective cover.
If its just a few gallons, loosen the strainer to pump supply at the pump and drain. You can regulate the flow by pinching the hose with a suitable clamp that won't damage the hose.
There is still a half gallon lurking below the strainer. Strainers do strip out of he plastic tank so take that into consideration. You can suck it out with a hand siphon or take a long lint free towel twisted to fit into the hole into the bottom of the tank. Place the other end into a bucket below the tank and it will suck I out by calipary action.
Replace the lines and filter as reuired. After reassembly, you can flush the lines with fresh fuel by jumpering the DME relay.
Remove the passenger rear tire and set a jackstand under the torsion bar.
There is a deep 13 up in the fender well for the strap that holds the protective cover.
If its just a few gallons, loosen the strainer to pump supply at the pump and drain. You can regulate the flow by pinching the hose with a suitable clamp that won't damage the hose.
There is still a half gallon lurking below the strainer. Strainers do strip out of he plastic tank so take that into consideration. You can suck it out with a hand siphon or take a long lint free towel twisted to fit into the hole into the bottom of the tank. Place the other end into a bucket below the tank and it will suck I out by calipary action.
Replace the lines and filter as reuired. After reassembly, you can flush the lines with fresh fuel by jumpering the DME relay.
Once you have the gas flowing in a controllable way into an old 5 gallon bucket or something remove the fuel cap and you will be surprised by how much faster it will drain. If you have a lot of fuel be ready with a couple empty five gallon buckets, easy to pinch off while switching buckets.
The jumper the relay trick to prime the lines and push any old fuel out of the lines is available at Clarks Garage in detail.
Change the fuel filter its cheap and easy. I would not change the strainer having stripped one out of the tank attempting to do the right thing last weekend.
Ignore the red lines in the picture below. If you want to jumper the fuel pump to "prime the new gas and filter" remove the DME relay crack open the larger fuel line before the fuel rail and direct output to a catch bucket with some larger length of hose and jumper pin 30 (2) to 87b (4) (key does not need to be on or even in the ignition to operate the pump in this manner) be careful with output of fuel as you have live battery etc....etc....
Added photo also of what you see with cover removed.
Last edited by jsheiry; 09-27-2017 at 09:59 AM. Reason: add photo
09-27-2017, 04:54 PM
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have done it via the test port on the fuel rail and a DME relay jumper.
Soft hose can be hose-clamped to the threads on the fuel rail port. Be sure not to lose the sealing ball under the test port cap. Leaks would be a problem though so be sure not to have any. Don't do this with the engine running, too many sparks from the ignition system.
Soft hose can be hose-clamped to the threads on the fuel rail port. Be sure not to lose the sealing ball under the test port cap. Leaks would be a problem though so be sure not to have any. Don't do this with the engine running, too many sparks from the ignition system.
09-29-2017, 10:04 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Where in WI?
Might be able to help out if near Madison.
Might be able to help out if near Madison.