urquattro20Vt

Hey guys-
So after I've been driving the car for a while - say a good half hour around town the clutch will not always fully return - needs help for the last inch or two sometimes. Its is always fine at first for a while when cold. I'm thinking the clutch slave is going bad - once it heats up a seal gets unhappy?

I bled it a few months ago - no real change.

So I ordered a new slave. Are there any pitfalls or tricks or things to be aware of for this job? Any tips appreciated.

FYI - Pelican showed this part at $107. But have none in US. My two local dealers did not have it and showed none in the country at all. 7-10 days from Germany and pricing at ~$400 with shipping. I bought a new *** (OEM) piece off ebay for $188 shipped.....

Brandon
'91 911 Turbo
'01 Audi S4

Boeing 717

It is not difficult to remove and replace. The nut on the top is a little bit hard to get to but no big deal. I think you have to put a little grease on the metal part that presses againts the clutch fork and you have to make sure that that same metal piece has sat right in that little cup on the clutch fork that its supposed to fit into.

Boeing 717

Oh I think the hose is seperate if im not mistaken you'll want to replace that as well.

Metal Guru

The slave cylinder uses a return spring so when it goes bad your clutch pedal won't come up all the way.
You can reach the cylinder by jacking up the car and removing the left rear wheel. Then you can contort your arm to reach everything. Should take 30 - 60 minutes to replace everything and bleed.

urquattro20Vt

I replaced the slave tonight. Was very straight forward as mentioned. The only thing I would add is it helps to remove the little heat shield attached to the exhaust so you can get both arms up in the area. This will make sense when you look at doing the job. Just need to bleed tomorrow and hopefully my not always returning pedal when engine is warm will be solved !

Next is to address the oil leak onto my passenger side exhaust manifold/heat exchanger. Bad feeling its the PS pump. Might farm that one out to a pro....

Sharker

Pump rebuild kit is $20 and there are video's to show how to do it.. Getting to it is a different matter.. I need to tackle this in the next little bit.. Feel free to go ahead and document it so I don't end up screwing everything up.. I am thinking I need to take off the Intercooler, A/C and Airbox to get half decent access to it..

Boeing 717

Yea, you'll also have to remove left rear wheel and plastic fender liner as well to get to those nuts on front of it IIRC. One of those nuts sits right behind the belt and is really hard to tighten when replacing.

Sharker

Gonna be a bitch to reach around the entire engine if I take the left rear wheel off

urquattro20Vt

And to think just a week or so ago I had the intercooler, AC, and airbox off. Halfway there...ah well that stuff is no big deal - just turning into a tedious chore. Maybe l'll look up those videos and see how bad it is.... Sharker how 'bout I follow _your_ lead! :-)

Sharker

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...build-diy.html

Thinking of taking a day off work next week to do this.. tired of the little puddle of Pentosin on the garage floor

rstarga

Itis usually best to replace the clutch M/C at the same time as the slave, why do the work twice.

urquattro20Vt

That is sometimes true in the case of a failed unit. This one was still OK - and replacement was a snap. No sense in adding a bunch of extra work if not necessary. IF the master does go then the only work that will be repeated is bleeding it - which is only 10 minutes....
Calculated risk :-)