Who here tracks there 965?
 

what r u running?
Tires?
brakes?
Shocks?
Other mods

What's on the wish list

What do u regret doing?

Timely post. I was wondering how good of a base car the 964T is for track work. The consensus seems to be that 964 NA cars are much preferred on track due to lesser weight and a more linear power delivery. I can understand that the single turbo makes it more difficult to constantly drive in the optimal RPM range since this range is quite narrow (if that makes sense). Keeping the RPMs in the sweet spot I mean where you have the TQ and power. That can be difficult. But still, there's a huge power and TQ advantage over the NA cars. Is weight the primary reason why the 964T is not considered a good base for a track car? Would a 964T with a 330lb/150kg weight loss be significantly faster on track as opposed to a standard 964T?

To respond to the OP, an example can be:

Tires: MPSCs
Brakes: Stock big reds are fine but you need to have active front brake cooling to avoid brake fade. A nice bleed with good fluid before events is recommended.
Shocks: Obviously the geometry setup is key in any track car. Pss10 for street/track, otherwise JIC or Motons for track only. 993RS uprights/tie rods, RS sway bars, polyrethane control arm bushings for crisp turn in etc.

Other mods could include 5bar fpr, LWF, sport cats, live remap etc. I would mostly try to make the power more linear and more easy to control (better throttle response as well). As far as I have understood, the problem with the 964T on track is not so much the power (beacuse it is there) but rather being able to make use of it without losing control of the car.

Hopefully others will chime in here... :)

:corn:

To quote Paul Frere when he drove the Turbo S: "...you must be accurate in your anticipation of full turbo boost. Otherwise, it comes too late and you fail, or it comes too soon and you are in trouble". I'd say to get the most out of a 964T you would have to be a professional driver or nearly so in skill level.

Not all that hard to handle...

Just got back from mid Ohio running in the advanced group and was eating new GT3 RSs for lunch
Only thing that got me and only on the straights was a new GT2

But my car is track modified

I don't track my turbo but I could imagine that it would be quite a handful given the way the power sets in. You'd have to modify the engine/exhaust set-up quite a bit for the power to come out more linear - not sure whether this can be done.

Brakes - What makes you think that the brakes will fade without cooling? I never had a problem with stock brake set up on either the turbo or the RSA - ever.

With the evo air box, headers, cat bypass and no muffler the power application is manageable

But with that extra HP the brakes can be an issue.... Still sorting that out... The long mid oh downhill back straight is tough on them and I'm not carrying in full throttle... Not to mention I'm only running stock boost... After 5-6 hard laps pedal gets a little soft and I'm running SRF


If my rotors and pads r shot( PFC 01s stock old rotors) then new rotors and pagids r going on
If they can make it another weekend then that new info will come later this month or June

Please tell us more about the upgrades you've done to your 3.6 :cheers:

i find my SC (albeit modified) performs track duties far better than the 964T - just the weight and power delivery is more noob friendly for me. but for touring and long distance i know what car i'd be taking :D

I started this to find what others r doing!!!

I'm still sorting my set up/mods out

I'll post some pics and a detailmlist later tonite

Many different upgrades over the years...

Current configuration for track use and some weekend drives...

Evo air box
Ghl headers
Cat bypass
G pipe
HKS E boost controller .8 bar and 1.05 bar settings
DAS roll bar
Sparco evo seats
Schroth 6 point harnesses
Breyer krouse harness sub mounts
Rennline harness seat mounts
RS door panels
Rennline track mats
Rennline floor board
Rennline pedals
Rennline 3 point strut bar
Fog brake ducts (still to be ducted to brakes... Ugh)
GT2 front chin spoiler
3.8 rs rear wing (big banana coming soon)
JIC Cross/ Magic coil overs 500lbs front 700lb rear springs
Front adj camber plates/ mono balls
Full ERP mono ball for susp front and rear
ERP mono ball spring plate
RS adj front and rear roll bars
PFC 01 brake pads (pagid blacks on order)
Track only rims with R compound P Zero corsas ( suck... Hankooks on order)

Setup, lowered, corner balance and aligned by dan Jacobs hairy dog garage

Off the top of my head I think that's it

Still trying to sort out best settings for the shocks at the track, like even number of clicks front and rear or stagger the number of clicks like 8 f and 12 r, same with the roll bars... Over heating the brakes so changing to different pad setup... Like blacks in front and yellow in rears
And my tires sem to be shot even though they have plenty of tread left, they r 4 years old

So my purpose of this thread was to get an idea of how and what setup people r using tontrack there 965 turbos

Ran a 1:43 at mid oh on a 50 deg day with a slippery track and low boost... We r guessing if we sort the brakes out and get new tires I should be able To get sub 1:40 and then really sort out the suspension to get down to a goal of 1:35 with the boost up

So I'm looking for shortcuts and ideas for the setup

A friend of mine tracked his 964Turbo S (we called it Tubbo). PCA Stock class club racer. Ran 2:07-8's iirc at Watkins Glen. Another buddy was driving a 964T non-s and running about 2:10-2:11s. They then "progressed" to 964 Cup cars (slicks, 270ish hp and 2400lbs vs Tubbo) and ran 2:06's at Watkins glen. Point is, i guess, is that with a very good driver, even relatively "stock" (read as "heavy"), a 964T or Turbo S can be a potent track car, even compared to a factory race car.

I would make sure the driver is good enough before modding the car.

I slept at a Holiday Inn last night

[IMG]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...r/bb26640b.png[/IMG]

tasracer, that seems like a nice setup. Not to state the obvious but from my experiance, if you make those brake ducts of yours active, it will help a lot. What weight are you at with the car and what sort of power/tq does it make?

Guessing 3000 on weight

380 HP to wheels and 475 torque if I remember from an old dyno sheet

Didn't these cars start out at 3300lb? I'd get to a scale.

Just for comparison some times gleamed from last years PCA Club race at Mid-Ohio:
F class [911SC] - 1:41
Spec3 [944S2] - 1:40
G class - 1:42
H class -1:35
I class - 1:39

From what I can tell a "stock" 964T would run either H or I class depending on year (3.3 vs 3.6 motors)

I know I would surely want my nearly 400hp 911 to be a LOT faster than a 200hp 944.

Get the shocks worked out and some sticky rubber (most club racers are on Hoosiers which certainly help).