Changing Oil Cooler Fan Ballast
07-04-2009, 02:39 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Changing Oil Cooler Fan Ballast
Last weekend I got caught in traffic for the first time in my car. After 20 minutes of crawling at 5 mph my temp needle was nearing 10 o'clock.
A quick check of relays and jumpering the relay plug revealed that the ballast on both my oil cooler fan and A/C condenser were shot.
A note on the jumper test: Jump terminal 30 to 87 and 30c to 87c (follow the identification on the bottom of the relay to find the correct slots on the plug).
Since Wachcuko has posted pictures of the A/C ballast replacement (which is the more difficult job by far) I will post the pictures for the oil cooler fan.
Remove the front wheel, front wheelhouse and valence. Now you can see the four fasteners that must be removed so that you can move the oil cooler aside. Here are the 2 nuts nearest the wheel. Undo these first.
A quick check of relays and jumpering the relay plug revealed that the ballast on both my oil cooler fan and A/C condenser were shot.
A note on the jumper test: Jump terminal 30 to 87 and 30c to 87c (follow the identification on the bottom of the relay to find the correct slots on the plug).
Since Wachcuko has posted pictures of the A/C ballast replacement (which is the more difficult job by far) I will post the pictures for the oil cooler fan.
Remove the front wheel, front wheelhouse and valence. Now you can see the four fasteners that must be removed so that you can move the oil cooler aside. Here are the 2 nuts nearest the wheel. Undo these first.
07-04-2009, 02:54 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The last one is a 10 mm nut on the very front of the cooler, at the bottom (thought I got a picture of it; sorry).
Now you are ready to pull the oil cooler outboard and access the ballast. Unplug the ballast. The ballast is held on the oil cooler shroud by a 10 mm bolt and nut. Reach under the shroud and undo the nut. Lift off the old ballast and kick it across the garage. Install the new ballast with the metal base plate that came with it. Make sure that you get the relief in the bottom of the ballast and base plate aligned with the bump in the shroud.
Re-install the oil cooler, valence, wheelhouse and wheel. Now go in the house and enjoy your favorite adult beverage: you just saved yourself two hours of labor and your professional wrench's place.
Now you are ready to pull the oil cooler outboard and access the ballast. Unplug the ballast. The ballast is held on the oil cooler shroud by a 10 mm bolt and nut. Reach under the shroud and undo the nut. Lift off the old ballast and kick it across the garage. Install the new ballast with the metal base plate that came with it. Make sure that you get the relief in the bottom of the ballast and base plate aligned with the bump in the shroud.
Re-install the oil cooler, valence, wheelhouse and wheel. Now go in the house and enjoy your favorite adult beverage: you just saved yourself two hours of labor and your professional wrench's place.
07-04-2009, 04:31 PM
#4
What's the down side of removing the resistor and running the fan full speed all the time? I have wired my street rod that way and didn't think anything of it. Just thinking out loud...
07-06-2009, 12:02 PM
#6
What's the down side of removing the resistor and running the fan full speed all the time? I have wired my street rod that way and didn't think anything of it. Just thinking out loud...
running it permanent will cause a slight delay in achieving the operational oil temperature. that does not hurt, but a tiny little blemish.
fritz
