dholling13

If I were doing the clutch thing; I would put cams in... I have a receipt of my car from this service; give me a few to scan it in later.

benzyne

cams might be too much scope creep, but i'll take a look at your scans and will see if i can increase the budget.

olly964T

What cams would you put in?

I`ve just put some Schrick 964 N.A cams in my 964 3.3 turbo. Cheers James. Richard has been vary helpful in modifying these for me.

dholling13

Whatever cams the PorschePHD would recommend

Here's my service receipt of my turbo done at 30k miles. Sorry is Rennlist for allowing only such microscopic pdf downloads and not letting them be seen on the post itself.

benzyne

Thanks Drew.

dholling13

Anything I can do to help I am more than happy to do so.

benzyne

Parts are on their way. I will probably drop the engine tomorrow and start cleaning the engine and drivetrain while I'm waiting.

I just recently punctured the AC hose (large diameter) in the engine compartment. I think the hard pipe was rubbing on the decklid. For those of you that have replaced the AC hoses, where did you get them from? Griffiths doesn't have any off the self hoses for the 964 Turbo, but are willing to custom fab something that will work. I'm just looking at options.

JamesE

On the cam front a lot of people don't realise the issues with CIS and various cam timeings/lift. The metering flap can conflict with the cam profile causing a "resonance" in the fuel metering. The 964 NA cams are well known for a voiding this along with the GT2 Evo cams.

Boeing 717

I had mine remanufactured by some guy in Texas. He replaced the rubber hose portion. It was around 70 dollars if i remember right. They work perfectly. I think the new hoses were more than 500 dollars new.

benzyne

Mandatory owner in the engine bay shot.

Today, my friend and I spent a few hours dropping the engine.

The G50 was very grimy, but cleaned up well.







Waiting on some bits and bobs, so I'll have some time to clean the engine tins and stuff.

The needle bearings fell out when I pulled the clutch shaft. There are replacement needle bearings available, but I also found this http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...ee4e37ac751dc4 bronze bushing kit. Does anyone have experience with either?

benzyne

Has anyone removed their air injection (smog) system? I'm now smog exempt, so I was going to make a CAT delete, and was eyeing the air pump today.

benzyne

The clutch release fork seems to be in good shape. I think it is the most recent style.



The release bearing has the plastic sleeve, so I believe it is also the most recent evolution.

GULFBLUERSR

Hi Benzyne,

just about to go through exactly the same job on my car, this is exactly the thread I was looking for when I just came across it!

Please don't hold back on any parts of the job and can you post lots of pics as well please?

Good luck with the project and keep it coming
Steve

benzyne

Hello 'listers. The clutch is in and the engine has been reinstalled. First impression is that the clutch is butter smooth and light. WOW. Now my SC's clutch feels heavy.

Things to remember. Unhook the throttle cable before after lowering the engine, but before trying to pull the engine out from under the car. There is a little pin that goes through the ball and socket joint to keep everything in place. No matter how much prying and cursing you do, the ball will not separate from the socket unless you remove the pin (and yes I did a lot of prying and cursing). Likewise, reconnect the throttle cable before lifting the engine back into place. If you forget to do so, you'll have to drop the engine out again to reconnect the throttle cable. This adds frustration to your already difficult procedure. Apparently, I need more frustration in my life, so I installed the engine twice.

I had become accustomed to dropping the engine in my SC. The 964 Turbo is much more complicated! There are hoses and lines everywhere. The biggest mess maker was the powersteering fluid. I would recommend pumping out the reservoir before dropping the engine, because the alternative is the unhook the hoses and have everything pour onto your garage floor. I would have chosen more wisely if I had known.

Finally, the torque for G50 flywheels are MUCH less than for 915 flywheels. If you try to apply the torque for a 915 flywheel, you will snap the bolts off (in my case I killed 2 before figuring it out).

Pulling off the bumper saved a lot of grief. I did this, and am glad I did.

I sandblasted and repainted all the engine tins. The heat from the turbo had killed the original paint, and there was some minor rust. I painted with high heat BBQ paint so hopefully it will survive.



I had also fabricated a cat-bypass since my car is emission exempt. $80 in materials and a little welding does wonders. The turbo spools faster and there is bit more volume from the exhaust. I love the pops and burble from over-run.



I have this obsession with polished fans, so I took the time to polish this one while the car was off the road. The 964 fan is much easier to remove than the SC's. The alternator doesn't even have to come out.





The old slave hose was completely shot. I replaced the hose and the slave cylinder. I'm not sure how to test for whether the slave is worn or not, but doing it now would save me a lot of headache later.


New sound pad. Appbiz Ultimate as per recommendations. It is a thing of beauty.


I don't think the air pump filter had ever been changed. It is well hidden away.


New silicone valve cover seals so that I can reuse them when I adjust the valves again ... hopefully no time soon, as it would be near impossible to do with the engine in the car.


Make sure you have exhaust gaskets. I just happened to have a spare set for my SC. I used them on the turbo though because (surprise surprise) you need to remove the whole drivers side piping (including the wastegate) to access the lower valve covers.


The Throw-Out Bearing Guide shaft might as well have been welded on. I bent phillips bits with my impact wrench trying to get it off. I ended up drilling off the heads, then backing the rest out with a reverse drill bit. I don't know why they were so tight.


Ready to go back in.


Have a good friend to help with the grunt work.


Insert under car.


Check clearances from above.


Install and enjoy.

GULFBLUERSR

Excellent, I'm sure that will be very helpful!!

Does removing the bumper just help when actually removing the unit from the car or help in getting around everything whilst preparing for removal? I only ask as I have a lift so if it is just for actual removal perhaps I could miss this step out?

What did you decide with the Flywheel, leave standard or go lightweight? I'm still pondering this one! Some say leave alone some change! My car is stock (for now!) it is only a weekend toy not a daily driver, I also have another car, a 78 sc with 3.6 motor, turbo brakes/suspension, caged, 2 seats and not much else! so when I want to really play this will do the job (when I finish putting it together!!) so I'm tempted to keep the turbo as a refined toy rather than make it too aggressive, any thoughts anyone??

Any reason why you ended up keeping the air-pump? I have a cat bypass already and the pipes for my pump are already cut due to rust at the heads, I was intending to remove the pump etc or do I need to keep it for any other reason? I don't need it for test here.

Sorry for all the questions but all being well I should find time to start this job in the next week or 2, then let the fun begin!!

Thanks for all the thread so far and now don't spend too much time at the PC just get out and enjoy your efforts with the car!!

STEVE