gtamustang

All,

For those of you who have the experience of doing your own work, I have questions for a few issues I need to resolve for my B&B header installation on my 91 turbo.

1. Do you use the original O rings and metal gaskets for each exhaust port? See first picture. My impression is the exhaust will be a better fit with both.

2. For the new oil line, did you have a fitting like the one in the second picture? This fitting doesn't fit either end (on the engine or in the passerger side wheel well for the line). I think this may be the wrong fitting. I think the fitting should have both sides the same as the right side.

3. Using the third picture, which end of the new oil line attaches where? I believe the right side attaches to the 90 bend fintting that I installed on the engine and the left side goes to a fitting (I think I have the wrong fitting) that attaches to the oil line in the passenger side wheel well.

4. I installed the 90 bend fitting coming off of the engine and pointed to the front of the porsche as shown in the forth picture. Is this correct?

Other than that, I have 3 exhaust studs to remove where the hex driver nuts sheared off. Plently of stud left to grab hold of, just need to figure out how to get them turning without breaking them again.

Once this project is completed (B&B exhaust, Tial wastegate, DesighTek wastegate catalytic bypass, primary wastegate bypass, and Faspeed tips), I will post pictures of my Cobalt Blue 91.

Regards,
Pete

Boeing 717

The only one i can give you advice on is the broken exhaust studs............

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=36572

kleinbbc2

1. I use only metal o-rings and never reuse.

fritz k.

hi,

i would use alone new metal ring gaskets, they have a cutting edge and should seal properly.

the fitting seems o.k. to me, it just depends on the inner part of the (left) connection. there has to be a cutting ring which fits the conical counterpart in the fitting.

i have removed recently a broken stud by electrowelding a nut on top of the bolt.
beside this i´m able confirm what jerry wrote.
warming up the area around the stud and taps with a hammer are very helpful.
i abstained from using PB Blaster or something else, instead i cooled down the stud with a freezing spray after warming up the area.

worked fine.

fritz

jayster

I have bypassed GHL and BnB;s because they dont work well for many reasons, and you pointed out another. I am not "Boatbashing" just stating my experience with both. Not very good. So I made my own headers. If you would like input or to see what I made, ask and I will post. I will post.

gtamustang

Fritz K.,

Let me try to explain the oil line/fitting problem in more detail

Based on my 3rd picture, the top of the fitting fits the left side of the oil line correctly. However, the bottom of the fitting does not fit the 90 bend fitting that I have installed on the engine (see 4th picture) or the end of the oil line in the passenger rear wheel well. The bottom of the fitting fits the right side of the oil line correcly. However, the left side of the line does not fit the 90 bend fitting. If I take the 90 bend fitting off, the oil line kinks and will come into contact with the driverside header/heater box.

Regards,
Pete

fritz k.

Pete,

unfortunately the mounting of the oil line on my M64.50 (3.6) seems to be pretty different from the 3.3 engines.

the line bends 90 degrees to the rear and on the right side back to the oil tank, with no fitting, just tube and short part of press-fitted flexible hose.

i guess one of the 3.3 guys will enlighten this for us....

fritz

stu.p

Jayster,
I would be very interested in seeing your headers you manufactured.

Stuart

Porsche inspector within UK for Peter Morgan.
http://www.porscheinspections.com/
964 turbo-Rebuilt using ARP hardware and other mods.Working with unwired tools develope pt model digiwur,although been running with unit for over 8 months,awaiting latest version to post more results.

jayster

Stu I will see if I can upload a pic.

jayster

GTA, you require the adapter in the wheel house, and the hose should go straight to the fitting. It forms a loop over the top of the trans. Hope this helps.

gtamustang

As it turns out, the oil line itself was wrong. BnB exchanged it for the correct one free of charge. The new one has the 90 bend built in to the line so you don't have to use the adaptor on the engine. Also, both ends are blue annodized to look like AN fittings. I should finish the project this weekend.

Pete

Staffan

Pete, I blew my B&B gaskets (three of them) just after a few hours of track driving. I replaced them with 930 stock all steel gaskets (they have the same shape) that I got from IA and had no problems after that. For "normal spirited driving" the B&B gaskets should work fine.

Had my share of broken head studs. Soak them whatever spray you use for removing rusty studs, weld a nut to the bolt and you should be fine. I use a torch (or whatever it's called) weld, that will make the stud red glowing hot which will makes things easier and less risky.

The other alternative is to use a pipe wrench and a propane burner, but again soak the stud (preferably the night befoe) and make sure it's red glowing hot before trying to remove it.

jayster

Okay Stu, as promised. I couldnt find the pics on my puter so I took more...

fritz k.

i´ve been told not to put more heat to the studs than actually necessary because they go weak on account of this.

makes sense in my view.

fritz

Staffan

Interesting, I know there are people advocating doing this cold (not saying you are), but the most common argument is that the stud will expand by heat (which of course is true). I have know clue how much weaker it gets by heat, but it's a fair point.

I've welded nuts on the studs and removed them both hot and cold, I prefer doing it when they are hot because the stud loosen up with less force and more "gently", not with a sharp cracking sound and this is why I use heat.

Just to be clear, I'm not talking about heating the whole to melting point.

Penetrating oil, a couple of good wacks on the stud (forgot that in the previous post), welding a nut to the stud, applying heat and then gently (slowly) turning the stud is what I do, works every time.