Turbo Control Unit
10-04-2009, 04:19 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
John, I did what you did and it started and ran fine for about 4 min. so I cut it off as to unplug each ter. on the relay to install the little sheild that covers the ter. and hooked it back up and it would do nothing. I found out I was not getting a grd. to pump ralays, to igniton relay, or the xz69. and in turn the ing. coil.I took and soldered a wire from the turbo control unit on the back side from Ter.#8 to Ter.#10 to Ter.#12 and it starts and runs fine. They each now have a ground . Don't Fig. AL
10-04-2009, 09:25 AM
#17
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John, I am leaning toward a bad grd. that I have not been able to find. Ter.# 10 is is also a grd. and goes to the same grd. location #xx1 on the crankcase. The wires that come from or go to the turbo control unit that are grds. are either BR.,BR/WT,or BR/YE . The solid br.one#10 is a constant grd. and the other two are suppost to be activated by the turbo control unit to either supply grd. to fuel pump relay br/ye or the other br/w to supply grd. to the Ignition system relay to supply the grd. to the ez69. I ordered a new TCU from Porsche and it did the same thing as the old one and another one another member on this site loaned me to try, nothing. I tested all of this with a snap on power probe that you can supply a 12 volt power, or a grd. with that has a built in fuse as not to damage any thing. when I supplyed a grd. to each thing that would not come on ,it then came on and worked properly. I realy don't have a clue as to what has happened. I am going to try to eliminate all of these moduels and the ez69 and fig. out how to wire in a msd6al programable Ign. system. As it would be a lot more modern and simplyfy the ignition control system. I have to now remap my digital wur as the afr is ideling on about 11.30 and with a short burst with the new turbo it dropped down to about 13.60 @ 1.2 bar. I guess I will have to go to a boost controller of some type as I only have a 1 bar spring installed. Thanks AL
10-04-2009, 11:45 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bad ground, been there and got the T-shirt with the rear relay tray. So 10 is not grounded as it should be? Is 7 grounded? At least you have it running in the meantime!
06-30-2010, 05:40 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Friends I think I have the same problem with turbo control unit.
I have a question to the John McM - does this second relay have to be closed or not, when your engine is working?
I start the engine, this relay close, and in a few seconds opens. The engine runs bad. I lock this relay compulsively and lambda valve starts working with good hearing noise. The engine runs much better.
What was with your second relay, why did you duplicate the relay? It wasn't working at all? It was always opened?
Also in few cases engine worked on idle, on the dashboard BEEPER made alarm, and the engine stall.
So now I try to find what is the problem.
I have a question to the John McM - does this second relay have to be closed or not, when your engine is working?
I start the engine, this relay close, and in a few seconds opens. The engine runs bad. I lock this relay compulsively and lambda valve starts working with good hearing noise. The engine runs much better.
What was with your second relay, why did you duplicate the relay? It wasn't working at all? It was always opened?
Also in few cases engine worked on idle, on the dashboard BEEPER made alarm, and the engine stall.
So now I try to find what is the problem.
06-30-2010, 08:43 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Serg, my problem was cold starting. Through basic schematic diagrams I diagnosed a relay that wasn't working and replaced it. If I recall I used a battery to test the relay and it wouldn't close so I presume that relay had to be on for the cold start. Sorry I can't be of more help, it was a while ago and I don't have access to my car or schematic diagram here in Jakarta.
06-30-2010, 10:09 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I do have all the ecu's for the 3.6Turbo if any body needs them
These are under driver's seat.
O2 control
Turbo charger control
Acceleration enrichment
Elliot
These are under driver's seat.
O2 control
Turbo charger control
Acceleration enrichment
Elliot
11-12-2010, 11:33 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
John, I did what you did and it started and ran fine for about 4 min. so I cut it off as to unplug each ter. on the relay to install the little sheild that covers the ter. and hooked it back up and it would do nothing. I found out I was not getting a grd. to pump ralays, to igniton relay, or the xz69. and in turn the ing. coil.I took and soldered a wire from the turbo control unit on the back side from Ter.#8 to Ter.#10 to Ter.#12 and it starts and runs fine. They each now have a ground . Don't Fig. AL
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post5670948
04-13-2016, 08:58 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
12-01-2021, 02:28 AM
#25
Just found this thread. My mechanic said I had no power to O2 sensor from the multifunction control. I did something similar with a generic relay - coil on the on board relay was open. Runs like a champ now and saved me $850. Thanks.
12-01-2021, 03:13 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
12-01-2021, 02:30 PM
#27
Hi John McM,
Yes, I looked around a little and figured I could buy a different relay module and scavenge the relay part to put it back to original (not external). About $65 for a relay versus $800 for the multifunction. Thanks again for the original post.
Also I saw a thread where someone was searching for the IC used on the board. It's a PIC microcontroller which gets programmed with software so you can't just swap the part. If I was extremely motivated I could pull a chip (from someone else's unit) and see if the code can be read form the device. Often times microcontroller fuses are burned when programming to prevent them from being read and copied.
Yes, I looked around a little and figured I could buy a different relay module and scavenge the relay part to put it back to original (not external). About $65 for a relay versus $800 for the multifunction. Thanks again for the original post.
Also I saw a thread where someone was searching for the IC used on the board. It's a PIC microcontroller which gets programmed with software so you can't just swap the part. If I was extremely motivated I could pull a chip (from someone else's unit) and see if the code can be read form the device. Often times microcontroller fuses are burned when programming to prevent them from being read and copied.
