Trouble starting when sort-of cold
04-05-2006, 01:00 PM
#18
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just my $0.02, and I have no idea how much the CO tester is, but before I buy a CO tester I'd get the LM-1 as it's much more useful and you can do CO by table below.
http://www.perfectpower.com/Technical_info/afr.asp
http://www.perfectpower.com/Technical_info/afr.asp
04-05-2006, 05:35 PM
#19
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The LM-1 is about $350 compared to $200 for the Gunson. Since I'm not a racer, I dont' know if I can justify that.
The O2 trick didn't help. I took a drive for about 30 minutes and then let it sit for an hour and a half. It's still very warm. I'll start looking at warm start issues, like the accumulator or check valve.
Is the check valve built in to one of the pumps or is it somewhere else? Can I just get a check valve from Pelican or do I need to replace the whole pump?
The O2 trick didn't help. I took a drive for about 30 minutes and then let it sit for an hour and a half. It's still very warm. I'll start looking at warm start issues, like the accumulator or check valve.
Is the check valve built in to one of the pumps or is it somewhere else? Can I just get a check valve from Pelican or do I need to replace the whole pump?
Last edited by loot87; 04-05-2006 at 06:40 PM.
04-06-2006, 01:35 PM
#22
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Because if for some reason you run lean when on boost you are likely to melt your pistons.
That is why we want to know what it is. Running safe and making power happens at different AFR's.
You need to run richer than max power to keep the engine cool, also too rich and the fuel washes away the oil for the rings, this then leads to excessive wear on the rings and bores.
It is important.
That is why we want to know what it is. Running safe and making power happens at different AFR's.
You need to run richer than max power to keep the engine cool, also too rich and the fuel washes away the oil for the rings, this then leads to excessive wear on the rings and bores.
It is important.
Last edited by nathanUK '81 930 G50; 04-15-2006 at 11:00 AM.
04-06-2006, 01:38 PM
#23
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The damage happens when on full boost wide open throttle and not enough gas. Engine goes lean and next thing you have holes in pistons / broken rings / etc. Plus when you start to have other issues it'll really help you understand what's going on while driving, not just at idle.
04-15-2006, 12:12 AM
#25
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OK, so I checked the pressures. System and control pressures are fine. Residual pressure hangs until about 9 minutes, then drops to zero pretty quickly. I replaced the check valve and the behavior didn't change. So what's my next step? Accumulator or WUR rebuild?
04-23-2006, 11:54 PM
#28
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Looks like it was the accumulator. After replacing it, system pressure stays at 2 bars for 30 minutes. It seems to fire up stronger when cold. I'll try the warm start tomorrow after driving to work.
What a PITA getting that thing replaced was. And the clamp holding it on is a joke. I had to replace with a standard hex head hose clamp that I could feed over the accumulator while closed because there was no way to close the clamp and start the screw turning with one hand.
What a PITA getting that thing replaced was. And the clamp holding it on is a joke. I had to replace with a standard hex head hose clamp that I could feed over the accumulator while closed because there was no way to close the clamp and start the screw turning with one hand.
