Adjusting my ride height
#1
Burning Brakes
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Adjusting my ride height
Guys,
I am just about to get my alighment check after converting it to RSR look - NB wishbones and 11J wheels.- will post pics of this soon and how i did it.
I would like to lower the height a bit i have adjustable H&Rs on there at the moment and I know to adjust it you need to rotated them but what is the best thing to use to know that you have even height left and right and is there a rule between the front and rear what it should be or it could be?
I am just about to get my alighment check after converting it to RSR look - NB wishbones and 11J wheels.- will post pics of this soon and how i did it.
I would like to lower the height a bit i have adjustable H&Rs on there at the moment and I know to adjust it you need to rotated them but what is the best thing to use to know that you have even height left and right and is there a rule between the front and rear what it should be or it could be?
#2
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Yes, they should be perfectly even right and left.
The car should have couple of % rake, slightly lower in the front.
Here is what I have done.
My H&R springs are a compromise between road and track (will change soon), pretty hard though.
I am running 63.9 cm from floor up to the hightest point of the fender above the wheel (not using the right word here) front and rear. This is pretty low setting. Even though it's the same height front and rear, the car has the right rake (lower in the front). Corner weight is good, it only differs 2-3 kg between RR/LF and LR/RF. My camber is -1.8 rear and -2.4 front.
Vincent on this board has H&R Cup kit with race springs he is 62.5 cm front and 61.5 cm rear.
This is a very low setting. springs need to be really hard
Miles, once you start changing something it will have an impact on lots of other things.
Height adjustment will change the corner weight and toe, sometimes other things to.
My 2 cents, decide how low you want the car and do a full adjustment (camber, toe, height) including corner weight. If you decide to do that, shop around for a good price, Porsche shops over here charge insane prices for a corner weight adjustment. To save money you could skip the corner weight and hope for the best, I did and it worked out well.
Did you go to Silverstone ?
The car should have couple of % rake, slightly lower in the front.
Here is what I have done.
My H&R springs are a compromise between road and track (will change soon), pretty hard though.
I am running 63.9 cm from floor up to the hightest point of the fender above the wheel (not using the right word here) front and rear. This is pretty low setting. Even though it's the same height front and rear, the car has the right rake (lower in the front). Corner weight is good, it only differs 2-3 kg between RR/LF and LR/RF. My camber is -1.8 rear and -2.4 front.
Vincent on this board has H&R Cup kit with race springs he is 62.5 cm front and 61.5 cm rear.
This is a very low setting. springs need to be really hard
Miles, once you start changing something it will have an impact on lots of other things.
Height adjustment will change the corner weight and toe, sometimes other things to.
My 2 cents, decide how low you want the car and do a full adjustment (camber, toe, height) including corner weight. If you decide to do that, shop around for a good price, Porsche shops over here charge insane prices for a corner weight adjustment. To save money you could skip the corner weight and hope for the best, I did and it worked out well.
Did you go to Silverstone ?
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
hey staffan thanks for the heads up.
I have a garage up the road whop just do alignment all day and they said they can do my adjustment for about 200GBP- not too bad for just turning up.
I havent asked them about corner weight yet- i guess that can be done after everything no?
So to meaure is it getting the car on a level ground and meausing from the ground up?
Also what about caster- they said they can do that. Im looking at setting for decent road use and high speed stability. I thought of
Front: -1 Camber -5 Toe
Rear -1 Camber 0 Toe
Now i have RSR or turbo look setup i dont know if that will change things too.
Im off to silverstone in November - hope my Efi poject will be done by then too, but i now just want to drive the car as its been on axles stands for 2 weeks now and the weather is too good to miss!
I have a garage up the road whop just do alignment all day and they said they can do my adjustment for about 200GBP- not too bad for just turning up.
I havent asked them about corner weight yet- i guess that can be done after everything no?
So to meaure is it getting the car on a level ground and meausing from the ground up?
Also what about caster- they said they can do that. Im looking at setting for decent road use and high speed stability. I thought of
Front: -1 Camber -5 Toe
Rear -1 Camber 0 Toe
Now i have RSR or turbo look setup i dont know if that will change things too.
Im off to silverstone in November - hope my Efi poject will be done by then too, but i now just want to drive the car as its been on axles stands for 2 weeks now and the weather is too good to miss!
#4
Burning Brakes
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Best thing is to do corner weight at the same time.
Yes, level ground and measure.
When looking at your setup I think you need a little bit of toe-in rear, otherwise the car while be unstable under breaking. If you want a stable car that is easy to drive go for a little bit of toe-in front and rear.
Perhaps you could go with the standard 964 Turbo S setup ?
According to Adrians book:
Front:
Height 125 mm (measure under the car, not sure where, have to look in the shop manual)
Toe +5' (toe-in)
Camber -1.25
Rear:
Height at outer control arm: 230 mm
Height at control arm: 218 mm
Toe per wheel +15' (toe-in)
Camber -1.25
The 964 Turbo S setup will give you a bit of understeer and feel safe.
If you want a more balanced (less understeer) car that turns better, go for -1.75 in the front and 0 toe in the front.
Edit 1: Downside of more camber and less toe-in is that your car could get more "nervous" on the street.
Edit 2: I translated 1 degree 15 minutes from Adrians book to 1.25 degrees, which I think is correct.
Yes, level ground and measure.
When looking at your setup I think you need a little bit of toe-in rear, otherwise the car while be unstable under breaking. If you want a stable car that is easy to drive go for a little bit of toe-in front and rear.
Perhaps you could go with the standard 964 Turbo S setup ?
According to Adrians book:
Front:
Height 125 mm (measure under the car, not sure where, have to look in the shop manual)
Toe +5' (toe-in)
Camber -1.25
Rear:
Height at outer control arm: 230 mm
Height at control arm: 218 mm
Toe per wheel +15' (toe-in)
Camber -1.25
The 964 Turbo S setup will give you a bit of understeer and feel safe.
If you want a more balanced (less understeer) car that turns better, go for -1.75 in the front and 0 toe in the front.
Edit 1: Downside of more camber and less toe-in is that your car could get more "nervous" on the street.
Edit 2: I translated 1 degree 15 minutes from Adrians book to 1.25 degrees, which I think is correct.
#5
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Originally Posted by Staffan
The car should have couple of % rake, slightly lower in the front.
Staffan,
It seems that you car is not that low. I remember that my car (front) is at 25" = 62.5cm. Don't remember the rear. I only have H&R springs and stock shock/struts.
Regards,
Sonny
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
cheers guys,
ill take a better look at the setup then, but looks like the turboS sounds good, not bad for all round setup.
Just need to find out what camber ill need...
ill take a better look at the setup then, but looks like the turboS sounds good, not bad for all round setup.
Just need to find out what camber ill need...
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Miles as Staffan said, don't lower your car without doing a corner weight job, there are ways to do it yourself but not the easiest of things, it will change your car balance of you don't. I would go to the best you know, it is worth the money you will pay.
Also, Keep in mind that your car handles differently from the other 3.6 Turbos because of 4WD (more weight upfornt and Pull characteristics) , also you have much wider wheels and tires. Although the camber settings of the "S" are great, you can reduce a little the front for a more comfortable ride since you have less understeer. AFAIK the rake should be 1 degree, rather than 5, but Ioculd be wrong.
Also, Keep in mind that your car handles differently from the other 3.6 Turbos because of 4WD (more weight upfornt and Pull characteristics) , also you have much wider wheels and tires. Although the camber settings of the "S" are great, you can reduce a little the front for a more comfortable ride since you have less understeer. AFAIK the rake should be 1 degree, rather than 5, but Ioculd be wrong.
#9
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Originally Posted by Jean
Miles as Staffan said, don't lower your car without doing a corner weight job, there are ways to do it yourself but not the easiest of things, it will change your car balance of you don't. I would go to the best you know, it is worth the money you will pay.
Also, Keep in mind that your car handles differently from the other 3.6 Turbos because of 4WD (more weight upfornt and Pull characteristics) , also you have much wider wheels and tires. Although the camber settings of the "S" are great, you can reduce a little the front for a more comfortable ride since you have less understeer. AFAIK the rake should be 1 degree, rather than 5, but Ioculd be wrong.
Also, Keep in mind that your car handles differently from the other 3.6 Turbos because of 4WD (more weight upfornt and Pull characteristics) , also you have much wider wheels and tires. Although the camber settings of the "S" are great, you can reduce a little the front for a more comfortable ride since you have less understeer. AFAIK the rake should be 1 degree, rather than 5, but Ioculd be wrong.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok thanks Jean,
So whats best then you think for my 4WD, 11J with 315's?, i would just need to reduce camber - if at all as more camber is good for cornering anyway?
What about
front -1 Camber +5 Toe
Rear -1 Camber +15 Toe....?
Or less camber in the fron like -0.5?
Anyone know the setting for the 993TT?
So whats best then you think for my 4WD, 11J with 315's?, i would just need to reduce camber - if at all as more camber is good for cornering anyway?
What about
front -1 Camber +5 Toe
Rear -1 Camber +15 Toe....?
Or less camber in the fron like -0.5?
Anyone know the setting for the 993TT?
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Originally Posted by Staffan
Ouch, valid point here, 4-wheel drive didn't think of that....
Miles, there is no wrong or right, you have to make a clear decision under what conditions you would like your car to perform best, and what is your most often usage. If you do a search here, you will find a lot of great advise. If the car is mainly street, don't go too aggressive on front camber, what you had was excellent, the car handled great.
Just as an FYI, the 993TT settings are here:
Front:
Fr Camber: -20' +/- 10'
Rr Camber: -1deg. 10' +/- 15'
Toe, the turbo S settings are fine.
The rear suspension of the 993TT is quite different from the 964T so the Toe settings in the rear would be meaningless.
Cheers
Last edited by Jean; 07-14-2005 at 02:49 PM.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Excellent stuff jean, will do. I agree the original setting was great, i did notice some slight loss of grip on some hard tight cornering, so hope the wider rims will solve that.... but now ive have swapped over the rear arms the alignment is not there anymore! However i think ill do Turbo S toe and -0.5 to -1 camber.