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From Rough back to RUF

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Old 09-18-2023, 07:16 PM
  #31  
urquattro20Vt
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I'm sure _you_ know this but just a heads up those rear blowers also help cool the motor. Obviously not as much as the main fan that is part of their function - hence why Turbos have 2 vs NA only 1. May only matter in hotter climates or hot stop n go traffic but just FYI for somebody out there.

Brandon
'91 Turbo

Originally Posted by Scott Dunavant
I went with the 993 suitcase. Comes with updated larger drain hoses. You'll need the two A/c lines up there. They easily connect.
The 993 suitcase comes with the wiring for the relocated heat shut offs.
Great design. It does add up. 964 CCU works fine. I checked all the wiring. There are no issues.
I deleted the rear blowers. Turbos have extremely powerful heat.
993 inner seals and outer seals will be needed with the glass.
You won't have to worry about too much weight in the rear unless you spin out.
You can lower the front so air doesn't pick up the front from underneath on hard acceleration.
Looks like your engine is original and he didn't run the hell out of it.
But checking those Heads studs are #1

Last edited by urquattro20Vt; 09-18-2023 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 09-22-2023, 10:16 AM
  #32  
cobalt
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I am not sure how I missed this thread. It brings back memories of my RSR track build. I was at Ruf back in the 80's quite the change back then. A good friend has his first 930 slant nose hammer head turbo build we are going to restore one day. He also has a 993 BTR2. Amazingly creative for the time the way they did things. Although after watching a Yellow Bird restoration, those were a bit rough especially with the IC location.

FYI the comment on 993 fuel rails. The ones in your car appear to be stock 964 square tubbing. The 993 would be round AFAIK.

Interesting intakes. They have a 996 look to them what I am using on my TT build. I thought I was being smart with my build using the Intakes to mount the IC and at the same time using the IC to keep the intakes from spreading apart under boost. Seems they came up with this a long time ago.

Great progress your making.
Old 09-22-2023, 03:53 PM
  #33  
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Anthony,
Glad you found the thread! That's a really interesting insight about the intakes. I hadn't thought about the functional benefits of having the IC hold the intake together under boost but of course that makes sense.
You're absolutely right about the fuel rails -- I confirmed with RUF that they're NA 964. I need to dig deeper because clearly the car must be flowing a lot more fuel than an NA car to push 425+ hp.
Old 10-12-2023, 02:23 PM
  #34  
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Is the top gasket pictured on the intercooler below a Porsche part or something specific to RUF? I don't see it in the 964 parts katalog, and mine is perished.



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Old 10-12-2023, 02:53 PM
  #35  
das76
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The factory gasket fits to the underside of the deck lid so i'll wager a bet it's a RUF part

looks like either the entire Ruf IC is different than stock or at least the top shroud is different.



Last edited by das76; 10-12-2023 at 03:00 PM.
Old 10-12-2023, 03:11 PM
  #36  
Scott Dunavant
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That looks like a typical trunk seal. Similar 964 cowl to the hood seal. Be careful if you purchase one too thick it will crack the tail.
I just reinstalled my 965 Andial intercooler. It's tight.
Old 10-12-2023, 03:25 PM
  #37  
spartansix
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Thanks all - I'm installing their rear wing so I assume their seal is the right one to use. If it doesn't come with the wing I'll inquire about getting one from them.
Old 10-12-2023, 03:34 PM
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das76
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any more pics / info to share about the project???????
Old 10-13-2023, 05:06 PM
  #39  
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Things are happening, but all the exciting things are happening elsewhere!

Seats and other goodies are purportedly in production back in Germany... fingers crossed I'll see those in a few weeks.
I'm also hoping to pick up the chassis in early November, which I hear is now a little more aerodynamic than when I saw it last.




Next big fab job is the integrated cage; they're working off RUF blueprints but since every 964 is a little different they 3d scanned the chassis to make sure the fit is perfect.



What am I doing through all this? Scrubbing. Lots of scrubbing.



Old 10-23-2023, 12:28 PM
  #40  
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Just a little update... we have no rain gutters, and now we're seam welding!






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Old 10-23-2023, 01:07 PM
  #41  
Scott Dunavant
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I just did the same on my 91 turbo but with an entire new roof skin for the sunroof delete. It would have been easier with the rain gutter delete. But I'm just used to those rails.
i guess you like your sunroof? Mine was crusty from sitting outside for 20 years.
i also see the roll cage. What's the seat belt situation? I also see it's going where the fuel accumulator goes. That engine compartment gets busy back there. Much easier to drop that roll bar inside the passenger compartment where the harness comes through the fire wall. Similar flex strength and roll protection
Not saying change anything, just a conversation.

Last edited by Scott Dunavant; 10-23-2023 at 01:08 PM.
Old 10-23-2023, 06:43 PM
  #42  
spartansix
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Hey Scott,

You brought up a lot of the same points that I did!

The actual cage is going to be different from the render because they modeled it off an older G body RUF.
As soon as I got the renders I knew there would need to be modifications because it runs into a bunch of things (not just in back, also the HVAC and frunk release in the front).
Some investigation revealed that RUF actually terminates their cage at the dash top and the parcel shelf on the 964 for exactly this reason, so that's what we're going to do.

The car isn't going to have a sunroof. It's getting a carbon skin. One of the next jobs is cutting out all but a 50mm lip (for bonding) but we left that until after the rails were dealt with!

The car will retain 3 point belts, with a custom mounting point for the shoulder harness integrated into the B pillars.
If you can believe it the integrated cage should be even more tucked to the chassis and roof than yours (and tied in at all points).
We're using 1.5" Docol R8, a Swedish motorsports-specific tubing which seems to blend the best characteristics of 4130 and mild steel.
Old 10-24-2023, 07:18 PM
  #43  
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Retaining 3 point inertia reel belts is a good move. I've driven road cars with harnesses in before and it becomes a pain in the *** after a while.
Old 10-24-2023, 11:26 PM
  #44  
Scott Dunavant
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You have to weld the Roll bar to the rails for the chassis stiffing to be affective. The only steel in the car that has the protection strength is the frame rails.
All other steel is thin and flexible. I've cut apart these cars since 1996. With the engine hanging off the rear frame rails these cars have known massive movement. Many coupes have issues opening the doors while on a rack. Other twist and flex with 500 hp causing flex cracks in fiberglass panels... Long term with miles. Not short term -Singer- miles. I'm sure your tubing is flawless.
---These comments are rules I followed over the years. Not suggesting you follow these rules.
Old 10-24-2023, 11:38 PM
  #45  
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Yes, point noted and taken.
Does your car still have the paper heat tubes, HVAC outer vents, and the associated plastic HVAC pipes? If so, can you show some photos of how you brought down the tubes in the footwells so as not to interfere with them?
Dropping the tubes into the rear like on your car is likely superior from a rigidity standpoint but isn't in the cards for this build, mostly because it's visibly very different from what RUF does/did.
I'm hoping that the combination of some additional strength from the cage plus the full seam welding of the chassis will be enough for the planned 425-450hp of this build, especially as I've seen a lot of people are putting down similar power without any chassis modifications.


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