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Megatron, that's Horrible. I'd like to help. I've been studying vitamins and health supplements for a couple years. My daughter has crohns disease. We got her to double her weight and grow 4-5 inches in one years time. She's all muscle. Getting your body back on tract to 100% is worth it. Covid was not so bad with me but months after I got severely sick restoring this C2 turbo. Mold and Metal fibers in the air caused bronchitis which led to a steroid and inhaler that shot my blood pressure up to 176 over 110. Ortho Molecular product line is our main health supplement. Let me know if you want to chat.
Thanks everyone...my brain is definitely a complete mush! I do not think that I have ever been this sick before. Despite all masks, sanitizers, shots, boosters, etc. And my wife is even worse!
Today I had to come to the shop, but I do NOT feel like working on technical stuff, so I am not touching the 965.
Instead bleeding brakes and fluid change on another car, nice and easy. Going back to my 965, anyone know what these connectors are for?
Let me know the wire colors on the two and three plug? I'll look it up.
Thanks Scott. (please see pic)
The 2-prong (female) appears to be Green/White and Red/White --> On the right/pass. side of engine compartment
The 3-prong (female) appears to be Brown, Green/White and Black/White --> On the left/driver side of engine compartment
* The wires are aged/dirty, and makes the brown and the red harder to be confident about.
The 2-prong (female) appears to be Green/White and Red/White --> On the right/pass. side of engine compartment
The 3-prong (female) appears to be Brown, Green/White and Black/White --> On the left/driver side of engine compartment
* The wires are aged/dirty, and makes the brown and the red harder to be confident about.
Hey buddy, get well soon, Those plugs are left unplugged. Just for your info, the 3-wire plug is for the low-octane fuel jumper. the 2 wire is for a tester of some kind.
Hey buddy, get well soon, Those plugs are left unplugged. Just for your info, the 3-wire plug is for the low-octane fuel jumper. the 2 wire is for a tester of some kind.
I've never had a need to run my engine without the intercooler installed.
I've jumped the fuel pumps to get the system primed and check for leaks and went forward with the intercooler installation. It's easier to do this than to play whack-a-mole with why my car won't start.
If the switch wire for the overboost switch and the ground for the red pressure transducer, which are both mounted to the intercooler, aren't connected to ground, you can't trigger the fuel pumps. -> I agree! Intercooler is back on, wires all connected correctly, and fuel pumps do come on with engine speed during cranking.
Make sure of the following:
1. Flywheel motion sensor is connected to the EZ69 -> Check
2. Engine wiring harness is plugged in correctly (I've done this being in a hurry so it can happen)->Check
3. Pressure/vacuum line is hooked to the EZ69 -> Check
4. Coil is hooked up to the EZ69 -> Check
5. Transducer ground is hooked up to intercooler -> Check
6. Overboost switch line is hooked up to switch on intercooler. -> Check
If you have an old fashioned inductive timing light you could use it to verify that you have spark.
Originally Posted by fritz k.
Without the intercooler fully installed the engine is not able to run, partly because there is no connection between the air flow meter and the throttle valve. Electrically, at least the white cable and the ground cable must be connected to the intercooler.
Fritz
Q1: As long as the white cable isnt connected to the intercooler the fuel pumps dont get ground. The fuel pumps also dont get power with only ignition on, a rev signal ist required too. -> I learned this lesson now! Yes, intercooler is back on, wires all connected correctly, and fuel pumps do come on when engine speed during cranking.
Thank you Fritz and MetalGuru!
My progress is slow...just to get my wife to come to my (stinky) shop to crank the engine; there is a 24hr. wait on a 2min. job! So here is the status:
Battery fully charged at 12.8V
Intercooler is back on; with all the associated wires connected, I can hear the fuel pump(s) coming on during cranking.
I spent 4 hours and went through the wiring, and everything appears to be connected OK.
“Ohm’d” what made sense and checked various fuses and all OK.
I have appropriate spark at several cylinders
Remaining Issue:
When I crank, the engine tries to (wants to) start for about a second but does not start.
If I let the engine sit for a few minutes and crank again, it will try and start but does not.
I can smell burned fuel and a little smoke from tailpipe as it is trying to start.
A few times I had backfire...
I think that my electrical/electronic is working OK, and that I must have a fuel system problem? …will be chasing down fuel system…
I also have TWO more items that I am not sure where they connect: Here are pictures:
If your car has a headlight leveling system (switch in the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel), this should be the vacuum connection therefor.
The thin line made of hard plastic goes from the intake manifold on the right through the rear wall to the front of both headlights.
If the car has no leveling system the vacuum connection has to be part of der SAI (secondary air injection).
Did you re-verify your Rotor and spark plug wire route?
Hey Scott, yes. Removed dist. cap, cap & rotor looked good (all new by the way)...removed a couple plug wires from different cylinders and tested with dummy spark plugs and have nice spark.
I am thinking that the electronics are working well enough to spark!
It sounds like it wants to catch and start but it does not. If I attempt to restart immediately nothing happens. But if I let it sit for a few minutes it attempts to start again. I think that I am getting only a little bit of fuel in the combustion chamber.
...BUT...thinking out loud here...It backfired twice during all the times that I have cranked the engine. I really don't like that at all! On my other cars (V8s) when something backfired it was timing way off as in distributor... I need to pause and think.
So you checked the Route of the wires. 1-2-3-4-5-6 all correct routes?
We might need to look at the route of the fuel hoses around the fuel distributer. Mine started rough about 5-8 times. Then started flawless.
i don't need to rub it in how good she sounds after sitting since before 9-11-2001. I replaced everything possible. Injectors, Injector risers, gaskets in that area. I had to move back the massive air deflector,... for the intake blocks to land perfect.
Intake was easy. i installed a new cold start injector, Same old frequency injector valve. Rebuilt WUR, Rebuilt Fuel head, new fuel pumps, new fuel filter. Oh and WUR fuel feeds top back of the fuel head. Allen banjo bolt.
i used the old O2 sensor I installed on this my car back in 2000 23 years ago.
i also operated the throttle while my buddy started the car. That was after the intercooler.
Then suddenly all the fuel caught up and she runs perfect.
...BUT...thinking out loud here...It backfired twice during all the times that I have cranked the engine. I really don't like that at all! On my other cars (V8s) when something backfired it was timing way off as in distributor... I need to pause and think.
There is not much to think about, if it fires into the intake, the firing order is not correct. Theoretically, this can also be caused by incorrect timing or completely wrong valve clearance, but this is probably rather unlikely.
Was the distributor pulled ? It is possible that it was plugged in 180 degrees backwards. There are two TDC's to consider, an ignition point and an overlap point. When the distributor is plugged into the overlap point, it is rotated 180 degrees wrong. Despite this everthing looks correct.
When checking the routing of the ignition wires, the direction of rotation of the distributor must be noted.
02-17-2023, 12:17 AM
