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Finally on overhauling my 3.3, having owned and driven it since 2006 (crikey, that's longer than I thought!). It's exhaust and oil system first (oil return tubes, cam cover gaskets, a couple of hoses), then suspension, then brakes... then (gulp) bodywork and paint, maybe a year or two in the future.
I fitted GSF headers and a Fabspeed decat years ago (great sound and a noticeable bump in response and performance), and both have been great - but the rest of the exhaust system (tips, wastegate pipe) and some of the seals are starting to show signs of wear (the odd bit of soot here and there around flanges, etc), so I'm taking it all off, replacing all seals and gaskets and giving it a tidy up. It's also a solid opportunity to replace a couple of the leaking oil return tubes.
As many of you will be aware... our UK roads and climate are not as kind to our vehicles as some other places in the world. Evidence?
Quite possible the worst corroded nuts and studs of a 911 wastegate? The top two studs have corroded almost to nothing. I notice that I also have a blown wastegate cat, just above the weld seam on the flange. Thinking about sourcing a Cargraphic bypass pipe to replace it, along with a set of oval Fabspeed tips that I have on order.
The rest of the system I am liberally dousing in penetrating fluid every other night, with the hope that I may avoid a snapped exhaust stud (which happened when I took off the original system, all those years ago!).
Last edited by Megatron-UK; 06-17-2022 at 12:05 PM.
I don't think my car ever saw a winter but the stock wastegate was a total loss. There was no way I could get it apart without destroying it.
I replaced it with a Tial wastegate, which I later traded to Ben McFarland when he built me the first custom merge I put on the car. Now I use twin Tial MS-V wastegates that are much smaller.
Is that Turbo driven? I have most the parts that are rusted in the photo.
The bottom of the wastegate is fed from a pipe that splits off from the exhaust intake to the turbo - the pipe on mine is aftermarket due to my headers. The horizontal pipe coming out of the wastegate is a short catalytic converter connected directly to the left hand tailpipe on the 964 3.3/3.6 Turbo.
Over a certain level of boost pressure (both via internal spring, as well as a sensor on the intercooler), the wastegate opens and excess exhaust gas is bled off from the turbo and out through the wastegate to reduce pressure in the intake.
Is that Turbo driven? I have most the parts that are rusted in the photo.
If you mean "is the car driven?", then yes; it is driven (as much as a classic 911 can be when you've small kids and are increasingly work-from-home!).
For about the first ten years of owning it, it was my daily driver around half the time. In the past few years it probably does 500 miles a year. I recently overhauled quite a few oil lines, so prior to spraying release oil all over the place, it's actually quite a dry, clean environment under and around the engine and exhaust now.
Started to remove the bumper in order to get better access for header removal/refit, as well as the opportunity to tidy up the engine tinware etc.
.... and there's more rust, because of course there would be:
I think that if I can get the bumper support tubes off, I can probably clean and repaint them - it doesn't look like they've gone so far as to not be saved.... but the support 'S' sections... scrap. Now think how many of those screws snapped while taking all of this off.
One positive though; the two big cap-head bolts holding the bumper on - they came out no problem (albeit with a breaker bar).
Can the engine tin be removed without dropping the engine? I think mine is just about salvageable.....
So Sorry to see this, and the oxidation you are having to deal with.
I should not complain about the Heat in Texas, My car a 1991 C2T with 100k mi looks as new underneath (but with dirt). I forget how lucky we in the south have it.
I see C2T's on BAT with corrosion/Oxidation on everything and they still bring all the money.
I Grew up in Bavaria in the 60's , 70's and 80's and I can tell you Rust never sleeps. I remember going to the Junk yard with my Dad and seeing rows and rows of highly desirable sports cars that looked fine, BUT, would not pass the TUV due to rust .
Finally on overhauling my 3.3, having owned and driven it since 2006 (crikey, that's longer than I thought!). It's exhaust and oil system first (oil return tubes, cam cover gaskets, a couple of hoses), then suspension, then brakes... then (gulp) bodywork and paint, maybe a year or two in the future.
I fitted GSF headers and a Fabspeed decat years ago (great sound and a noticeable bump in response and performance), and both have been great - but the rest of the exhaust system (tips, wastegate pipe) and some of the seals are starting to show signs of wear (the odd bit of soot here and there around flanges, etc), so I'm taking it all off, replacing all seals and gaskets and giving it a tidy up. It's also a solid opportunity to replace a couple of the leaking oil return tubes.
As many of you will be aware... our UK roads and climate are not as kind to our vehicles as some other places in the world. Evidence?
Quite possible the worst corroded nuts and studs of a 911 wastegate? The top two studs have corroded almost to nothing. I notice that I also have a blown wastegate cat, just above the weld seam on the flange. Thinking about sourcing a Cargraphic bypass pipe to replace it, along with a set of oval Fabspeed tips that I have on order.
The rest of the system I am liberally dousing in penetrating fluid every other night, with the hope that I may avoid a snapped exhaust stud (which happened when I took off the original system, all those years ago!).
...
I guess you did not see mine, yet ... driven by previous owners and I in Germany, UK, Italy, Belgium, Czech Republic ... any season, any weather ...
I guess you did not see mine, yet ... driven by previous owners and I in Germany, UK, Italy, Belgium, Czech Republic ... any season, any weather ...
A few patches on that one!
Fortunately, apart from the cat pipe itself (now on order from Cargraphic), the wastegate itself is actually not in bad condition. To be on the safe side I've ordered a new diaphragm and new set of studs, nuts and fasteners.
Final silencer removed, along with the right hand bumper support arms, heatshield, blower pipework, bumper mounting bracket and support brace.
(please ignore my temporary zip ties!)
I actually don't think the support arms need replacing - with the heatshield material removed (that's a job for the grinder on those screw heads), I think it's going to clean up nicely; it doesn't look to have been structurally damaged. Exhaust box is fine, blower mount is fine, so is the bumper bracket and support brace - they all just need a little cleaning.
The original exhaust box is going back on (nothing wrong with it, from what I can see) - I've already got the Fabspeed cat bypass and GSF headers, so removal of the final box would be too loud. I have a set of Fabspeed exhaust tips on order, along with the Cargraphic straight-through wastegate pipe which should slightly louden things a little more from both sides. After that, I'll see whether I think it's loud enough; I don't envisage a G-pipe or Swan-neck being appropriate though. Scart and Cargraphic both do 'sporty' final silencers which could be an option.
At some point I need to get a new oil pipe made up to go from the backdated sump hardline to the thermostat. The original rubber pipe (the one lifted up on zip ties in the first image) has been repaired at some point in it's 30 year life and a horrendous, giant brass coupling has been fitted between it and the standard fitting on the end of the hardline. I'm not a fan, as it's always damp.
So... This is the worst bit so far; the shark's fin support bar, left hand wheel arch:
It looks to me as if the bolt has been hanging on with a fraction of the shank left in contact with the tab on the inside of the arch where it is spot welded from the factory... As a result it simply turned off in my hand with a stubby little spanner with no torque. That's going to be a tricky one; when I get it painted in a year or two's time I can get it welded back on to the tab... For now though I expect I will need to epoxy it back.
The support bar is well and truly rotten. Pin holes everywhere and great thick flakes.of rust on every surface.
Pricing up the bar, it's around £190... Which is obscene for a short pipe with a flange at each end and two tabs for the self tapers for the arch liner. I suspect I'll make a replacement.
After a quick restoration, I waxed coated my old 1991 C2 turbo in 1999. i sold the Car to someone near Canada. The car sat outside for 22 years. I bought the 965 back this year. Everything underneath looks the same as I left in in 2000. All the nuts came off perfect. I believe in wax coating back then and still believe the same today. Many are dry ice blasting today. Half those cars will see corrosion in 10 years. I have many of the parts you might need, but I'm in the US. Shipping would be too expensive today. Keep us updated.
After a quick restoration, I waxed coated my old 1991 C2 turbo in 1999. i sold the Car to someone near Canada. The car sat outside for 22 years. I bought the 965 back this year. Everything underneath looks the same as I left in in 2000. All the nuts came off perfect. I believe in wax coating back then and still believe the same today. Many are dry ice blasting today. Half those cars will see corrosion in 10 years. I have many of the parts you might need, but I'm in the US. Shipping would be too expensive today. Keep us updated.
I totally get it. Around 2002 I bought a 1973 Ford Escort MK1 shell (euro Escort, obviously). In the early part.of it's life it had clearly had a waxoil coating over the entire underside, inner wings, engine bay, chassis rails etc. It was horrible stuff to remove, but had protected the car for the 30 odd years of standing outside in the damp, salty UK roads. Brilliant stuff.
From what I can see so far with the Turbo, it looks like the major corrosion is limited to mainly bolt on parts, connectors, fasteners etc. I do have a rust bubble on the front screen surround and a few very small patches on the underside of a rear arches where they meet th bumper (planing on a full repaint in a year or two)... So I'm counting my blessing so far.
Mine sounds worse as it had water sitting inside while parked for 20 years. I have to cut in some metal around the front and rear windscreen. Also needed a roof from some small tree limb hit around the sunroof. Blasting it was a proper solution because of some corrosion under the floor seam seal. I would take a look at your seat area and around the pedals. The corrosion was limited down there but always a concern.
I've had a good look around the car - there's nothing under the carpets that I can see (without removing all of the insulation, anyway), nothing down the sides of the front wings or wing seals, nothing visible on the sills (though they haven't been removed yet). The only visible bits on the exterior are at the top left of the rear screen surround, on the (left) door jamb at the edge of the sill protector and on the front scuttle in front of the front screen (starts on the scuttle and goes under the edge of the window seal). None of them have gotten significantly bigger in the last few years due to the reduced number of miles the car has been doing, so I'm hoping that I can hold out for another 12-24 months until I finish all of the mechanical work and figure out how I am going to afford a full repaint!
06-17-2022, 12:03 PM
That's what you call 'well corroded' - wastegate
