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Black_hat, Thats a nice mod. I might consider that after or if I get my 965 running again. So does that really take a 80 amp fuse? Did you upgrade the alternator?
After my back heals I'm pulling the lines off the 965.
My 964 PS is acting funning and could be leaking.
Thank you for giving me a heads up.
I am wondering if it was the power steering pump leaking or not. I have rebuilt about 6 of these so far and never had an issue with them but one. The one was a PITA. It ended up being the reservoir. The two halves began to separate and it leaked from the backside so it was never seen. The glue in these get old and they fail over time. Unfortunately the clear tops are NLA maybe for this reason. I could never figure out why it was leaking until I realized that each time we refilled the reservoir it was just below the clear and would leak down to the lower half and then stop leaking. Just wasn't on my radar at the time, now the first thing I check.
I used the same TRW pump it is the same pump used on a Opel/Vauxhall. Motorsports gets $2500 or more for it but buy it as a TRW Opel/Vauxhall part and new is around $600 last I checked. IMO as good as the factory units just a large electrical draw at full lock.
I did not upgrade the alternator
I run the pump with A/C, headlights and stereo
and
I have an AGM Miata battery - read small (from batteries+ and inexpensive)
No issues
I have not measured the current draw but the pump is right next to the battery the Cables are short.
I have no idea why I was unsuccessful rebuilding the PS pump and I did change the reservoir - I rebuilt the PS pump on both of my Gwagons successfully
After Power washing my house I had an extra hour to cut the Roof off and fit the New Roof skin. I like it. Clearly a bit more expensive than the sunroof panel. But if you are going that far why not invest the extra $3000 towards a correct roof skin. I'm saving the Rails, I grinded down the front lip. Rear peace gets entirely replaced.
Cobalt, yes I know about the venting. I was going to write about it. Looks like Porsche used a heavy black sponge material that doesn’t hold water. If anyone know that exact material it would be nice to know about it.
IMO, as for this conversion it’s better than a bondo sunroof, or early transplant or carbon fiber roof.
Cobalt, yes I know about the venting. I was going to write about it. Looks like Porsche used a heavy black sponge material that doesn’t hold water. If anyone know that exact material it would be nice to know about it.
IMO, as for this conversion it’s better than a bondo sunroof, or early transplant or carbon fiber roof.
I am not sure what sponge material you are talking about. This is on a 964? They made the rear vents solid metal. This was my factory roof skin. We peeled the rails back and did it per the factory but added some additional bonding and welding to stiffen things up a bit. In all honesty it was a royal PITA and I wouldn't do it this way again. I did use the fenn lane insert on my track car build and welded the entire panel in place both inside and out and it has held up without issue. I never use any filler if I can help it. When we did my slick top project all was done by welding and no filler. Although the factory leaded these tubs along the top of the B pillar and in other areas still.
That was a prior track car of mine I have owned for 15 years. I wanted a change but not too much of a change. I have completely redone the entire car full everything you would want to do upgrades, new interior but didn't need it with only 60k miles. I was not happy with the cashmere interior. I have yet to mess with the engine and trans as they are still in perfect condition. It is now my go to driver as my turbo sadly has become mostly a show car these days. Removing the sunroof rear wiper adding 993 aluminum uprights lightweight wheels and Sportster CS's she still weighs in at a portly 2900 pounds with a half tank. I have two track cars one is currently getting an insane twin turbo engine build and will weigh in at 2650 pounds and a min of 400 whp at lowest boost settings. The other is a basically a cup car with an added 100 pounds for cage and bits. I really like the short gear option as IMO it is better than adding displacement for improved acceleration. Both my track cars have short geared boxes and on track they make a huge improvement.
Just saying it might be a consideration since you're in there.
I am a pseudo purist. Some cars I believe should be kept stockish with only minor bolt on mods like my turbo. I do like to keep things as period correct as possible. I just have an issue with some of these backdates and making these into something they are not.
PS: FYI while you are welding things up I recommend reinforcing the seat mounting points at least on the drivers side. The abuse on track at high G's will cause them to break over time. You might even consider reinforcing the shock towers while at it.
No I agree. Anyone can go buy a clean C2 turbo on BAT and just own it. Not that many can go buy a basket case 964 and personalize the car with interesting features like what you have done. As for keeping it original not this one. No smoke and mirrors resale going on here. Yes regearing transmission is next.
who do you you guys recommend?
I wanted lower 2,3,4,5.with stock 20/80 diff.
Cleanest Part of rebuilding this 965. I was told to Contact GBox or Patrick for re-gearing solutions. Keeping the 20/80. Replacing seals and checking the Diff. I replaced the gear oil 20 years ago. It's still green. Guessing I need to drain that and make sure there's no metal shavings with the one tank of fuel he drove.
05-18-2022, 08:01 PM
