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The Mold was just in the headliner and sun visors. I cleaned these with Citric Acid and then Leather Conditioner. Set them out in the sun and they feel great. The rear seats also are fine. Lower seat pad not so good. Door panels are also good. These would look great in your 3rd or 5th 964 that you have.
The Mold was just in the headliner and sun visors. I cleaned these with Citric Acid and then Leather Conditioner. Set them out in the sun and they feel great. The rear seats also are fine. Lower seat pad not so good. Door panels are also good. These would look great in your 3rd or 5th 964 that you have.
LOL You have peaked my interest. I'm on my way to sunny CA so I will be away for a few days but will discuss in detail with management on the plane. Too bad i just purchased those new speedlines and Cup I's.
Ordering everything for the engine. Just make sense. No issues. Little bit of blackened oil at the bottom while the car sat. Keep the engine stock except for SC cams. The whole design of this car is lightweight in the budget.
Yes urquattro20Vt making progress. Very slow. But it's a process. Many parts are on back order or discontinued. First I'm ordering all fuel related parts from Gaudin. Second RS Clutch and Misc from Worldpac. Third all engine internals from EBS. FVD gauge rings, Seals, misc. Metal Guru, I've built many of these turbos. The lightweight ones with low gearing were scary fast with cams and headers. That's kind of the Build here. This car does have the Monster Andial S2 intercooler. Also deleting PS, Airbags and sunroof. I'm trying to get a complete Roof skin. Sierra Madre has one in LA but they're not sure about freight. The pelican Skin delete might also work.
I just did the roof skin and it is a stupidly crazy involved job to do properly. Last I checked they had 40 in stock at Porsche and run around $5k. Make sure you have a competent shop doing the work. Most I see have the drip rails look wavy when done. I would not remove the PS. I tried it and IMO the car is more fun and driveable with equal feedback at speed requiring half the energy. It is especially more effort to drive a WB without PS than a narrow one.
Victor reinz is not the best did you try contact EBS for parts? I would also consider an upgraded connecting rod bolts possibly ARP.
Anthony, I'm going to give this "Dansk" Roof skin a try. I'm not going into the rails. Might be the last one in the country and their factory is not stamping anymore at this time. Hope it arrives safe. AS for PS, I loved the delete on my light weight. It was awesome! My pet peeve is hearing a pump PS act up. I'm also thinking about the light weight hood even though I read about your problems. I'll take a better look at the hood.
Didn't know Dansk made a roof skin. Although most likely the factory skin is probably from Dansk. They seem to make a lot of parts for Porsche. I am curious are you going to try to butt weld it or just overlay it.
I ran a manual rack in my widebody track car at 2650 pounds and I couldn't handle it. The added effort to turn in was just too much for my arthritic shoulders running a 245 on 9" rims. I actually prefer the feel of PS myself. I am not sure what you mean by hearing a PS pump act up? I have had them leak and fail but noise is not something I am accustomed to hearing. Maybe my exhausts are too loud. LOL
Metal Guru, I've built many of these turbos. The lightweight ones with low gearing were scary fast with cams and headers. That's kind of the Build here. This car does have the Monster Andial S2 intercooler. Also deleting PS, Airbags and sunroof. I'm trying to get a complete Roof skin.
Question was meant for Brandon but, yes, my car also has cams, lightweight flywheel and a bigger turbo. I'm lighter by approximately 220 lb. The car is much more fun to drive than it was when stock.
Stripping the Cooling off the front. Found the bumper harness made it's way into the Cooling fan. I guess I'll order Cooling fan motors & Resistors, new brake lines, Rotors, pads, PSS10's, Wheel bearings. Also need a new bumper cover with trays, two wheel wells. Then need to inspect the Caliper pistons. These cars cannot just sit. Front end and parts were sprayed with Easyoff and powerwashed. The Easyoff is no joke. I'm sure it will take off all the cosmoline. I might consider reusing cosmoline as this car was sprayed with it in 2000 and it protected this car for the last 20 years in Michigan.
I searched for Dansk Roof skin on Rennlist and only my post comes up. I'm hopefully going to Weld in to the spot welds at the glass points. Surface weld before the Rain Gutter. The rear section is not needed. I assume most guys are restoring an older 911 and need the areas in the rear for Rust. My objective is Sunroof Delete.
Did you get your new turbo installed yet?
What's your plan for tuning? You will need to add fuel to the mixture.
Hey Paul -
I don't want to hijack Scott's thread so happy to move this over but here's a quick answer.
Yes - I did the swap about a month ago (PITA first time..). The difference is not a big as I expected, frankly - but I do like the turbo. Up here at 5000+ ft - boost does start to build a little faster and is more linear - definitely more power and responsiveness in mid-range and pulls a little harder up top all the way to 6000. It's more driveable, more "area under the curve" but because it is more linear the old school turbo punch is reduced. Driving out of tight corners, ok all corners - is better. I have an AFR gauge hooked up (always) so I keep an eye on the numbers. Because it's not making a ton more peak power, airflow is not not drastically different so AFR's are still in line. recall it is still stock K27 housing - just new internals. My WOT at higher rpm went from mid/high 11's to low/mid 12's. All others no change. One thing I noticed on last drive - will have to pay more attention to this - is it seemed to be affected by higher ambient temps than the stock K27. The original K27 seemed to perform pretty much the same (close enough) all the time - more power at cool temps was more noticeable then less power when hot out...
Hard to say if it was worthwhile honestly. If one's K27 were to go bad - yeah for sure. I bought a core then had it rebuilt (still have the turbo that came on my car) so not sure if that was totally worth it. leaning towards yes tho - it does drive nice. just can't expect night/day difference - it's still a K27.
04-05-2022, 12:12 PM
