Staffan

I think I see the ground wire from the fuel cut out switch, could be the brown spiral looking wire.

Also, not important right now, but the top left hose on the intercooler seemms to be caped, is this the case ? If so is this stock ?
On my car it's connected to the deacceleration valve, the brass disk shaped thing underneath the intercooler.

fuzebox

Your gauge shows boost at idle?!

I'm not familiar with the Porsche gauge, I'm hoping it also shows vacuum?

cobalt

Staffan,

I believe all else is stock. The Brown Spiral Wire is connected to the Orange Boost Sensor. There is a wire coming off that sensor that is grounded to the IC. I see nothing that appears to be grounded from the fuel cut off switch. There are two hoses coming off the IC one goes to the WG, it appears to be fine, the second goes to the deceleration valve. There is also a large plug that appears to be stock, I believe for test purposes.

When i first purchased the car I brought it to a very respectable tunning shop that specializes in turbos. They have worked on many 3.6's and know the cars quite well. They gave the car a complete once over including checking for maximum boost and evidence of spiking potential. They told me the car was very healthy and ran a solid 1.0bar with no evidence of spiking producing close to 400hp. They recommended doing an S upgrade instead of the approach the previous owner used to get the hp up there. Not in the budget at this time.

These conditions are a result of replacing the POV. I think I need to insatll the original POV and see what happens. If I have to I will bring it back to the shop to have them check it out. I would rather try to figure it out myself..

Thanks for the help.

PS I will post a close up picture when my darn camera recharges.

Staffan

Sounds good Anthony.
If you don't mind, post the picture, it would be interesting to see.

Btw, where is the braun spiral wire connected in the other end ?

cobalt

Staffan,

Had a chance to take a better look without my 5 year old son tugging at me. I appear to be mistaken.

The Brown wire is grounded to the body on one end and to the IC on the other. There are two wires coming from the harness one wire leading to the fuel cut off switch the second a brown wire has been removed from the boost sensor and grounded to the IC were the Brown spiral wire is connected. There is an additional wire coming from the harness which attaches to the boost sensor.

It would appear that the fuel cut out switch is grounded. I have only seen two other 3.6 engines and both of them had this spiral wire with aftermarket exhaust.

As far as the plug on the side of the IC, it appears that this had been modified also. The hose that runs from the IC to the Vacuum Limiter (deacceleration valve) has been removed and capped off. the new hose runs down below the IC into an aluminum T that is connected to another hose in the system. Apparently they are trying to monitor the system from some place else but I cannot tell exactly were until I have a chance to remove the IC.

I don't like taking chances with my engine and now see why my mechanic is trying to convince me to do the S modification instead of what was done. At this time I think toning things down a bit might be in order. I would hate to damage the engine but will really miss the extra power.

Staffan

Antohony, good thing you found this out!
Everyone I heard of running 1 bar spring and after market headers run into the fule cut-out issue that needs to be taken care off. The previous owner took the easy but more risky way out.

You have a few choices:
1. Leave it
2. Get a boost gauge
3. Another spring (0.85?) and activate pressure switch
4. Relocate and activate pressure switch
5. Get a Electronic Boost Controller (EBC) + 4

I run a EBC that have a digital boost gauge the pressure switch is activated, might need to relocate it though, not a big deal.
At least you should get a boost gauge.

You deaccel valve hose plumbing might be stock, but I am not sure, perhaps somone on the board with a 3.6 could check. Sonny with a 3.3l had Lee Rice do some kind of mod with his deaccel valve, perhaps info about that could be of help to sort this out.

cobalt

Staffan,

Thanks for walking me through this.

The modifications are only about 2000 miles old. I don't want to risk any damage so I must do something before the spring. I am not sure if anything was done to the vacuum limiter. Although the manual shows the valve connecting to the IC were the plug was located.

I am interested in the EBC approach how much does this cost and what options do I have. Can you give me more info on your set up. Were did you mount your boost gauge? I was told we can upgrade our tachs to 993 versions($$$) that will read up to 1.0 or above, don't think the accuracy is there. What does it take to relocate the active pressure switch?

I have heard installing a Tial WG with .8 and .2 spring rates eliminates any chance of over boost also. What is your opinion on this approach.

We just got 5" of the white stuff so I don't think I will be doing anything soon. Have time to do my research before I spend. I will talk to my mechanic and ask him his opinion. I don't like the fact that he did point out some of these issues previously. The other confusion is that the work was done by a very respectable shop out in CA. Doesn't make sense to skimp on a few $K when the end result could cost you 10 times that.

Thanks again,

Staffan

You are welcome, glad to help, I recieved so much help myself from this and other boards.

Anthony, I don't know but we are probably more or less alone way down a thread. Why not start a new thread about what EBC to choose, you will get a lot of good feedback from everyone.

Anyway, there are a number of EBC to choose from, HKS, Blitz, Greedy and others, stepping motor or solenoid, fuzzy logic or no fuzzy logic, built-in boost gauge or not etc.

First of all, when using an EBC you can't go any lower in boost than your wastegate spring, so you want to change to a stock spring.

After some reading on different boards I decided to get a Blitz Dual Solenoid boost controller, the newer models (with same functionality) are called Blitz Type-R. I got a used one out of Ebay for $200 USD, a new EBC is about 300-600 depending on brand and functionality.

My unit has a built-in boost gauge, 4 preset boost levels, over boost protection and some other stuff.

I think you should start a new thread, perhaps also ask around at www.911turbo.com at www.turbo911.com . You will get tons of good advice from experienced user of Tial Wastegates and EBC's of different brands.

I mounted my display unit with velcro underneath the "ashtray".
I am getting pressure for the build-in boost gauge from the pressure hose connected to the EZ69 unit, left side in the engine compartment, you can't miss it.

I run all the wires (and pressure hose) between actuator and display unit underneath the car, I post pictures if you decides to go this route, same thing (pictures that is) goes with plumbing between actuator, IC and WG, I got it wrong the first time.

I bolted the actuator on top of the plastic cover to the electric panel (left side engine compartment).

I haven't relocated the pressure switch, not sure I will, need to do some more testing first. Since I only run 0.9 bar I hope I don't need to do it.
If I do it, I will probably cut and put a T-Connection in the large hose going from the deaccel valve to the manifold. I would attache the pressure switch to the T-Connection.

I bet we have even more of that white stuff here, so it will take some time before I can continue testing. Had a test run about a mont ago, it was just below freezing point but the road was dry, thought I had a clutch problem, turned out I had wheel spin on 4th gear, I better wait..

Edit: A bit to fast the first time

cobalt

Once again thank you.


I went to the other sites; some interesting stuff.

I have one last question before I post a new thread. If you are runing .9 bar and using the EBC what boost levels are you hitting if .9 is min.

Regards,

Mark S.

I have this exact set up and have zero overboost at 1 bar. It's very easy to run a boost gauge off the intercooler to the cockpit and have your passenger watch the guage while you drive.

Mark

Staffan

I don't know if these EBC works differently.
Anyway on my EBC I set two parameters for each boost setting, they are called Ratio and Gain. Ratio deals with the boost level and Gain has to do with how fast boost pressure builds.

To much Gain and it will overshoot creating a boost spike, they are linked to each other, it's a trial and error game before you get it right.

So on my EBC I can't set it on 0.9 bar and leave it, there is no pressure feedback to regulate Ratio or Gain automatically based on a preset boost pressue.

Having said that, there is a limiter that kicks in when you hit a configured maximum boost value, it beeps and lowers Ratio with a number you dialed in, thus decreasing boost. But this function is more of a engine saver.

More info about my EBC:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S...bc_manual.html

Reminds me to check what the switch does on the back of my display unit...

Cheers

cobalt

If you don't mind me asking what does this setup cost?

By the way Staffan it's not the snow as much as the Salt and sand they use to combat it. I will check this out also.

Mark S.

If you mean the Tial wastegate it was around $500 as I remember.

Running the boost gauge from the cockpit off the intercooler is a temporary set up designed to measure the boost while experimenting in the shop (road testing that is). It's just a rubber vacuum tube taped to the side of the car and run through the window. One end connected to the boost gauge and the other to the intercooler.