Who's running with a Leask WUR and RPM Controlled Solenoid Valve ?
02-28-2018, 12:38 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Who's running with a Leask WUR and RPM Controlled Solenoid Valve ?
Who's running with a Leask WUR and RPM Controlled Solenoid Valve ?
My car is running well, But it seems to running rich on the onset boost, Looks like the WUR is original to the engine, I'm thinking a fresh WUR would maybe make my car run at it's optimal. My car is pretty much stock , Stock exhaust and emissions stuff less the cats and a manual boost controller set at 1 bar. I'm also installing Brian's RPM controller, I'm having Brian set the WUR to stock setting , Any thoughts on this ? Do you think it has made a difference for your 965 ? and how did you install you RPM controller ? Pic's would be nice and some feed back would be great
Thank you guys
Helio
My car is running well, But it seems to running rich on the onset boost, Looks like the WUR is original to the engine, I'm thinking a fresh WUR would maybe make my car run at it's optimal. My car is pretty much stock , Stock exhaust and emissions stuff less the cats and a manual boost controller set at 1 bar. I'm also installing Brian's RPM controller, I'm having Brian set the WUR to stock setting , Any thoughts on this ? Do you think it has made a difference for your 965 ? and how did you install you RPM controller ? Pic's would be nice and some feed back would be great
Thank you guys
Helio
Last edited by heliolps2; 02-28-2018 at 01:57 PM.
02-28-2018, 01:19 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Helio, how rich?
If your somewhere around 11:1 you can get away with that.
My car, when stock and control pressures set to factory values, was 11.5:1 and boost onset and 12.6/1 at 6000 rpm.
I have to assume that is what the factory intended.
If your somewhere around 11:1 you can get away with that.
My car, when stock and control pressures set to factory values, was 11.5:1 and boost onset and 12.6/1 at 6000 rpm.
I have to assume that is what the factory intended.
02-28-2018, 01:55 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Onset boost in the low 10's....I smell raw fuel in the car when I boost..
02-28-2018, 11:52 PM
#4
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Helio, I'm running the Leask WUR and have a K27 HF turbo and a Tial wastegate with 1bar Spring...no cats.....sorry I let my mechanic do all the work on the tuning side of things so can't really give you any specifics....I know it was a challeng to dial in just because getting the the adjustment screw requires removal of intercooler each time you want to make an adjustment. Mine was running rich before we put the Laesk WUR as the diaphragm in the stock WUR had ruptured due to the enhancements done to the car. I'll see if I can get any info or have him chime in on this post for you.
03-01-2018, 12:16 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Helio, I'm running the Leask WUR and have a K27 HF turbo and a Tial wastegate with 1bar Spring...no cats.....sorry I let my mechanic do all the work on the tuning side of things so can't really give you any specifics....I know it was a challeng to dial in just because getting the the adjustment screw requires removal of intercooler each time you want to make an adjustment. Mine was running rich before we put the Laesk WUR as the diaphragm in the stock WUR had ruptured due to the enhancements done to the car. I'll see if I can get any info or have him chime in on this post for you.
03-01-2018, 11:25 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
If you plan on staying stock, get a rebuilt WUR. I've heard good things about this guy www.cisflowtech.com
If you plan to do any hot-rodding, get a Leask WUR.
Setting up a Leask WUR is time consuming. You have to remove the intercooler and the air cleaner. The get the air cleaner off, you have to dis-mount the A/C compressor too (I made slight mods to the WUR mounting to be able to remove the WUR without removing the air cleaner). You would need a Mityvac vacuum/pressure pump ($120), a set of CIS gauges ($60) and a Innovate LM1 or LM2 ($150 and up). Then you have to jump out the WUR heater circuit but I could give you the procedure. You have to guess at what the new boost control pressure should be (usually .1 - .2 bar), then re-test by recording AFR under boost (it's always fun to do a test run on public roads
; choose a place with no traffic and no cops).So if your engine is stock and going to stay that way, just get a non-adjustable, rebuilt WUR.
03-01-2018, 03:20 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, something's wrong there.
If you plan on staying stock, get a rebuilt WUR. I've heard good things about this guy www.cisflowtech.com
If you plan to do any hot-rodding, get a Leask WUR.
Setting up a Leask WUR is time consuming. You have to remove the intercooler and the air cleaner. The get the air cleaner off, you have to dis-mount the A/C compressor too (I made slight mods to the WUR mounting to be able to remove the WUR without removing the air cleaner). You would need a Mityvac vacuum/pressure pump ($120), a set of CIS gauges ($60) and a Innovate LM1 or LM2 ($150 and up). Then you have to jump out the WUR heater circuit but I could give you the procedure. You have to guess at what the new boost control pressure should be (usually .1 - .2 bar), then re-test by recording AFR under boost (it's always fun to do a test run on public roads; choose a place with no traffic and no cops).
So if your engine is stock and going to stay that way, just get a non-adjustable, rebuilt WUR.
If you plan on staying stock, get a rebuilt WUR. I've heard good things about this guy www.cisflowtech.com
If you plan to do any hot-rodding, get a Leask WUR.
Setting up a Leask WUR is time consuming. You have to remove the intercooler and the air cleaner. The get the air cleaner off, you have to dis-mount the A/C compressor too (I made slight mods to the WUR mounting to be able to remove the WUR without removing the air cleaner). You would need a Mityvac vacuum/pressure pump ($120), a set of CIS gauges ($60) and a Innovate LM1 or LM2 ($150 and up). Then you have to jump out the WUR heater circuit but I could give you the procedure. You have to guess at what the new boost control pressure should be (usually .1 - .2 bar), then re-test by recording AFR under boost (it's always fun to do a test run on public roads
; choose a place with no traffic and no cops).So if your engine is stock and going to stay that way, just get a non-adjustable, rebuilt WUR.
Larry at CIS Flow is a good guy, I agree with you, I'm haveing Brian setup the WIR to factory spec's with the heavy duty diaphragm, on my lat 3.3 turbo I made my own adjustable WUR . I have all the tools and a hand held Innovate AFR LM1 and fuel gauges. The inter cooler is a PIA... I was mostly curious about the RPM controller and the installation and the function and will benefit me on a stock 3.3 ?
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03-01-2018, 06:18 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Larry at CIS Flow is a good guy, I agree with you, I'm haveing Brian setup the WIR to factory spec's with the heavy duty diaphragm, on my lat 3.3 turbo I made my own adjustable WUR . I have all the tools and a hand held Innovate AFR LM1 and fuel gauges. The inter cooler is a PIA... I was mostly curious about the RPM controller and the installation and the function and will benefit me on a stock 3.3 ?
With a stock engine, you will be fine.
A word of caution on Brian setting up your WUR; he sets very rich so you can't blame him for engine damage.
I recommend setting it up yourself to factory specs once you install it.
04-07-2018, 06:59 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Hey guys-
Maybe too late - but just a quick tidbit. I'm tuning (just needs minor dialing in) my WUR after my engine rebuild and here's what I do. Remove airbox and install a cone filter on the fuel head. Install breather filters on the breathers (2).
I have an extra long vacuum line to the WUR (about 12 inches long). And I don't bolt the WUR down until it's full tuned. With no airbox I can slip the WUR out under the IC from the passenger side with both the IC and AC in place. It really reduces the hassle factor for tuning the WUR. Literally 5 minutes to make an adjustment. Remove the two fuel line banjo bolts, slip the WUR off the studs, move it over, unscrew the vacuum line clamp and pull the line off and voila it's out.
Once I have it totally dialed in I will bolt the WUR down and re install the airbox.
The motor is running so sweet. I thought it was running great before but now it's even better.
Brandon
'91 911 Turbo
'00 Audi S4 highly mod'd DD
Maybe too late - but just a quick tidbit. I'm tuning (just needs minor dialing in) my WUR after my engine rebuild and here's what I do. Remove airbox and install a cone filter on the fuel head. Install breather filters on the breathers (2).
I have an extra long vacuum line to the WUR (about 12 inches long). And I don't bolt the WUR down until it's full tuned. With no airbox I can slip the WUR out under the IC from the passenger side with both the IC and AC in place. It really reduces the hassle factor for tuning the WUR. Literally 5 minutes to make an adjustment. Remove the two fuel line banjo bolts, slip the WUR off the studs, move it over, unscrew the vacuum line clamp and pull the line off and voila it's out.
Once I have it totally dialed in I will bolt the WUR down and re install the airbox.
The motor is running so sweet. I thought it was running great before but now it's even better.
Brandon
'91 911 Turbo
'00 Audi S4 highly mod'd DD
05-08-2018, 01:48 PM
#10
I'm running the Leask WUR as well, I was also recommended to get the RPM switch but I think i'm going to be fine without the switch. i'd rather do a Franken CIS conversion before spending the money on a switch. I spent the last couple weeks tweeking the WUR in evenings and think i'm very close to getting it running great. I'm as low as 11 to 11.5 at WOT.
My WUR is very easy to get at with small K&N on the intake opening and no A/C, but adjusting the WUR then going for a drive can be a time consuming process, I can't imagine the bill paying a shop to do that $$$$.
My WUR is very easy to get at with small K&N on the intake opening and no A/C, but adjusting the WUR then going for a drive can be a time consuming process, I can't imagine the bill paying a shop to do that $$$$.
05-09-2018, 12:42 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Yeah with no AC it's even easier to get to...and yes very time consuming to get it dialed in and I don't know how you pay a shop to do that. Would take forever and be who knows how much money. I just drive the car and note AFRs and make an adjustment pretty much each time I drive it.
05-09-2018, 05:27 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Only the guys running displacement/big port heads/aggressive cams need the switch.
With a stock engine, you will be fine.
A word of caution on Brian setting up your WUR; he sets very rich so you can't blame him for engine damage.
I recommend setting it up yourself to factory specs once you install it.
With a stock engine, you will be fine.
A word of caution on Brian setting up your WUR; he sets very rich so you can't blame him for engine damage.
I recommend setting it up yourself to factory specs once you install it.
I have received and installed Brian's WUR, As per my request and in the manual sent to me the 160 WUR was set to factory spec's.
Simple exchange, The black Bird runs perfect, Now I have the peace of mind that it's all rebuilt and with heavy duty diaphragm. To be honest I have not checked to pressures because it starts cold, warm and hot as it should, And boost seems to be good. I need to hook up my Innovate LM1 hand held AFR gauge and check. But compare the 965 to 930 settings it seems to much higher pressures than the 930/911 Turbo but yet my 964 Turbo seems to run richer.
05-09-2018, 10:48 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Thank you for the advise.
I have received and installed Brian's WUR, As per my request and in the manual sent to me the 160 WUR was set to factory spec's.
Simple exchange, The black Bird runs perfect, Now I have the peace of mind that it's all rebuilt and with heavy duty diaphragm. To be honest I have not checked to pressures because it starts cold, warm and hot as it should, And boost seems to be good. I need to hook up my Innovate LM1 hand held AFR gauge and check. But compare the 965 to 930 settings it seems to much higher pressures than the 930/911 Turbo but yet my 964 Turbo seems to run richer.
Do verify with your LM-1 before you do a lot of driving.