Valve Adjustment
12-04-2003 | 04:38 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Valve Adjustment
I finnished my valve adjustment last night, here are som info that might help others.
I used the the technical article at Pelican Parts, "Valve Adjustment Made Easy". There are some small differences between the car they reference in the article and a 964 turbo. The differences are described below.
- When draining oil, drain the turbo sump as well
- The oil filter is located above and front of right heat exchanger, I needed to remove a orange pipe to remove it.
Stuff you need to remove:
* Rear wheels
* Muffler (remove it with the tailpipe connected)
* Wastegate (remove it with tailpipe connected)
* Heat shield right (two bolts need to be undone from above
* Heat shield left, a bit tricky:
- undo the o2 sensor cable within in engine compartment (leave the o2 sensor connected in exhaust system)
- there is a large hose (for the airpump I think) in front of the lower valve cover, you need to loosen the hose, a bit tricky
- You need to remove 1 hose from the pipe coming from the wastegate, the other one is just a vent
- I didn't remove the heat shield completly
Good luck!
I used the the technical article at Pelican Parts, "Valve Adjustment Made Easy". There are some small differences between the car they reference in the article and a 964 turbo. The differences are described below.
- When draining oil, drain the turbo sump as well
- The oil filter is located above and front of right heat exchanger, I needed to remove a orange pipe to remove it.
Stuff you need to remove:
* Rear wheels
* Muffler (remove it with the tailpipe connected)
* Wastegate (remove it with tailpipe connected)
* Heat shield right (two bolts need to be undone from above
* Heat shield left, a bit tricky:
- undo the o2 sensor cable within in engine compartment (leave the o2 sensor connected in exhaust system)
- there is a large hose (for the airpump I think) in front of the lower valve cover, you need to loosen the hose, a bit tricky
- You need to remove 1 hose from the pipe coming from the wastegate, the other one is just a vent
- I didn't remove the heat shield completly
Good luck!
12-04-2003 | 09:51 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 9,170
Likes: 10
From: New Jersey
Staffan, so you were able to adjust the valves in the car? I've heard of horror stories where the engine needs to be partially dropped, etc. Is that just for 3.6 or all C2 Turbos?
I did the last valve adjustment on my n/a 964 and I would like to compare the level of difficulty adjusting a n/a964's valves to a turbo's.
I did the last valve adjustment on my n/a 964 and I would like to compare the level of difficulty adjusting a n/a964's valves to a turbo's.
12-04-2003 | 11:55 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Once all the stuff was removed I had no problem reaching all the valves.
I did all the adjustment from below.
Couldn't see the actual valve when working with the intake valves though, but it took less than 10 minutes to get the hang of it.
I used the Porsche valve adjustment tool, I would say it's a must for a smooth adjustment. Porsche part # 000 721 213 20.
If you are really good at doing a partial engine drop you might save some time not having to remove the heat shields. I know my mechanic lowered the engine when he did the adjustment.
The major part of the work is to get access to the valves and understand how to do the adjustment. The actual adjustment is done in less than 1 hour. You have done this before, it will be easy.
I don't know for sure but I would guess the work for the actual adjustment is the same for 964 N/A and Turbo. Don't know but when looking at the list of stuff to remove to get access to things in a N/A 964 I would say it's easier (faster) to get rid of things on a Turbo.
A tricky part was to get rid of (what I think is) a air hose beside the left heat shield. There are tools for removing hoses, next time I will have one for sure.
Also when removing the intake valve cover on the left side, if you have a problem removing it, look for a clamp that might be in the way (top left side).
Also, I couldn't se the TDC/Z1 print, had to rotate the engine and try to "shake" the rocker arms to figure out where to start. But now I know how it works. Turn the engine (allways clock-wise) and look for a place on the flywheel where there are two marks within an inch or so. The first one of these two (right one) is TDC. Then by pushing on the rocker arms for cylinder 1 and 4 you will figure out if you need to turn the engine 360 degrees or not.
I did all the adjustment from below.
Couldn't see the actual valve when working with the intake valves though, but it took less than 10 minutes to get the hang of it.
I used the Porsche valve adjustment tool, I would say it's a must for a smooth adjustment. Porsche part # 000 721 213 20.
If you are really good at doing a partial engine drop you might save some time not having to remove the heat shields. I know my mechanic lowered the engine when he did the adjustment.
The major part of the work is to get access to the valves and understand how to do the adjustment. The actual adjustment is done in less than 1 hour. You have done this before, it will be easy.
I don't know for sure but I would guess the work for the actual adjustment is the same for 964 N/A and Turbo. Don't know but when looking at the list of stuff to remove to get access to things in a N/A 964 I would say it's easier (faster) to get rid of things on a Turbo.
A tricky part was to get rid of (what I think is) a air hose beside the left heat shield. There are tools for removing hoses, next time I will have one for sure.
Also when removing the intake valve cover on the left side, if you have a problem removing it, look for a clamp that might be in the way (top left side).
Also, I couldn't se the TDC/Z1 print, had to rotate the engine and try to "shake" the rocker arms to figure out where to start. But now I know how it works. Turn the engine (allways clock-wise) and look for a place on the flywheel where there are two marks within an inch or so. The first one of these two (right one) is TDC. Then by pushing on the rocker arms for cylinder 1 and 4 you will figure out if you need to turn the engine 360 degrees or not.