964 error codes 32 knock and 34 hall sensor troubles
06-12-2017, 10:52 PM
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964 error codes 32 knock and 34 hall sensor troubles
error codes 32 knock and 34 hall sensor troubles
Had top end rebuild last year various items were a problem.
Got it back and had a senor 15 code, was the throttle cable being too tight.
After 1000 miles
I got the knock and hall sensor error.
Tested
1. The all wiring from the computer and all sensors, engine sensors
2. Mass airflow just in case.
Replaced
3. the knock sensor, no effect.
4. Caps and rotors – it was time anyways
5. Cleaned ICV valve, gave me something to do while waiting for parts
Then pulled the lower sp plugs, 1 and 4 were running hot. Very white, like new.
Looked at the air intakes and noticed the rubber sleeves on top the fuel injector stacks on 1 and 4 were misshapen, replaced all 6 lower sleeves 964-110-687 and ring hose clamps to be safe.
Car stopped running all together. And lost brake booster.
Found a post from another rennlister saying don’t forget the ‘hidden hose’ behind air intake #3, I owe him a beer.
Attached hose and car ran perfectly. Sort of. Codes came back after 15 minutes of running and also brake dash light came on at same time…
Retightened all air intake ring clamps again, and hidden hose at back of 3 again, could not get much torque on it due to location. Might not be tight enough.
Found soft lose vac line into throttle intake, under the zero throttle mirco switch. Put a mini zip tie on it to hold it in place.
Car ran perfectly again, but engine light returned after 20-25 minutes same 2 codes, no brake light this time, yea!
Tightened the hose clamps again, same effect. Good for a while then not.
Where to go next?
I did not replace the large upper rubber sleeves 964-110-686, should I?
How tight should intake ring clamps be?
Should I get the vac parts kit? SET 37 parts kit 964-110-970
Had top end rebuild last year various items were a problem.
Got it back and had a senor 15 code, was the throttle cable being too tight.
After 1000 miles
I got the knock and hall sensor error.
Tested
1. The all wiring from the computer and all sensors, engine sensors
2. Mass airflow just in case.
Replaced
3. the knock sensor, no effect.
4. Caps and rotors – it was time anyways
5. Cleaned ICV valve, gave me something to do while waiting for parts
Then pulled the lower sp plugs, 1 and 4 were running hot. Very white, like new.
Looked at the air intakes and noticed the rubber sleeves on top the fuel injector stacks on 1 and 4 were misshapen, replaced all 6 lower sleeves 964-110-687 and ring hose clamps to be safe.
Car stopped running all together. And lost brake booster.
Found a post from another rennlister saying don’t forget the ‘hidden hose’ behind air intake #3, I owe him a beer.
Attached hose and car ran perfectly. Sort of. Codes came back after 15 minutes of running and also brake dash light came on at same time…
Retightened all air intake ring clamps again, and hidden hose at back of 3 again, could not get much torque on it due to location. Might not be tight enough.
Found soft lose vac line into throttle intake, under the zero throttle mirco switch. Put a mini zip tie on it to hold it in place.
Car ran perfectly again, but engine light returned after 20-25 minutes same 2 codes, no brake light this time, yea!
Tightened the hose clamps again, same effect. Good for a while then not.
Where to go next?
I did not replace the large upper rubber sleeves 964-110-686, should I?
How tight should intake ring clamps be?
Should I get the vac parts kit? SET 37 parts kit 964-110-970
