car going in for valve adjustment and clutch..what to do while in there
07-27-2016, 01:25 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
car going in for valve adjustment and clutch..what to do while in there
As the title says, doing a little routine maintenance. Swapping the dual mass flywheel for a light weight one is a given.
Is the diff easily accessible while the trans is out? The car has an open diff now and I was considering putting in a 1.5 way clutch pack. I am familiar with OS Giken diffs, but what do people generally use in 964s?
How about the final drive? I'm told this doesn't require a transmission tear down, but I'm not sure.
Not sure if I'll make the leap on headers / exhaust when the valve adjustment happens. If I did, is the only heat source for a defroster from the heater boxes on the headers? Living in socal, I only need a little warmth for the defroster and the early morning drives to buttonwillow. So its not crucial.
Anything else I should consider while I'm in there?
Matt
Is the diff easily accessible while the trans is out? The car has an open diff now and I was considering putting in a 1.5 way clutch pack. I am familiar with OS Giken diffs, but what do people generally use in 964s?
How about the final drive? I'm told this doesn't require a transmission tear down, but I'm not sure.
Not sure if I'll make the leap on headers / exhaust when the valve adjustment happens. If I did, is the only heat source for a defroster from the heater boxes on the headers? Living in socal, I only need a little warmth for the defroster and the early morning drives to buttonwillow. So its not crucial.
Anything else I should consider while I'm in there?
Matt
07-27-2016, 02:15 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
don't look at my 'while in there' threads. they get expensive :-)
07-27-2016, 08:47 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Do whatever B. Verburg has suggested on this forum. He's helped 100's on this fourm with the same questions. Many, many excellent posts!
07-27-2016, 04:50 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
How old are your spark plug wires and the oil pressure sensor [and that sensor's manifold seal]? Replacing those is much easier with the engine out. Also inspect your motor mounts.
If there's little, tiny spots (and by 'little', I mean really, really dinky pin points) of oil on the outside of your engine hatch, the cam shaft end seals should be 'looked at'. (...then replaced.)
And the distributor's drive belt replaced? *cough-SteveWeiner-cough* Sure -- why not.
(Was the distributor's vent line installed?)
07-27-2016, 05:56 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
man. that sounds a lot more like maintenance than fun. 
thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm embarrassed to be making entry level questions, but I haven't gotten my hands too dirty on this car yet. Does the engine need to be dropped to pull the trans? I assumed it could be pulled independently.
thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm embarrassed to be making entry level questions, but I haven't gotten my hands too dirty on this car yet. Does the engine need to be dropped to pull the trans? I assumed it could be pulled independently.
07-27-2016, 06:31 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Set some budget aside for unexpected stuff as well!
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07-27-2016, 08:06 PM
#8
IHI KING!
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Another few thoughts, if your engine is out. What is the condition of your engine firewall sound pad? Also, inspect the fuel lines on the top of the engine. When I had mine out, we discovered one fuel line has puffed up like a balloon. I replaced all of them just to be safe. Also, inspect all of the rubber lines.
07-28-2016, 11:54 AM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Definitely check for any pugs in the engine compartment 
Aside: I haven't changed my wires, but they seem pretty easy to do once everything is removed for a valve adjust? Which everyone here is doing every ~20k miles anyway, right?
Dizzy belt and head temp sensor are easy to replace without pulling the motor. Of course, dizzy belt should definitely be changed on a scheduled basis (60k miles?).
I would pay close attention to all of the clutch area stuff that isn't required to change, but may need it: the throw-out bearing fork, needle/plastic fork bearings, trans input shaft seal behind the guide tube, rms seal, slave cylinder and flex hose, probably other stuff that I'm forgetting.
It's a good time to fix some oil leaks if you have any from the usual locations: oil pressure/temp sender seals, timing chain cover seals, around any of the threaded oil pipe locations. Replace the oil breather hose if it hasn't been done, cheap and they get rock hard and leak at the ends.
The high pressure power steering line off the pump is often a leaker, that will be accessible too. Doesn't hurt to look at the p.steering pump belt, but they seem to last almost forever.
How rusty is your engine tin? Good time to have it all stripped and powdercoated to keep it from disintegrating. Engine lid struts are very easy with the motor out.
We can spend as much of your money as you want!
Aside: I haven't changed my wires, but they seem pretty easy to do once everything is removed for a valve adjust? Which everyone here is doing every ~20k miles anyway, right?Dizzy belt and head temp sensor are easy to replace without pulling the motor. Of course, dizzy belt should definitely be changed on a scheduled basis (60k miles?).
I would pay close attention to all of the clutch area stuff that isn't required to change, but may need it: the throw-out bearing fork, needle/plastic fork bearings, trans input shaft seal behind the guide tube, rms seal, slave cylinder and flex hose, probably other stuff that I'm forgetting.
It's a good time to fix some oil leaks if you have any from the usual locations: oil pressure/temp sender seals, timing chain cover seals, around any of the threaded oil pipe locations. Replace the oil breather hose if it hasn't been done, cheap and they get rock hard and leak at the ends.
The high pressure power steering line off the pump is often a leaker, that will be accessible too. Doesn't hurt to look at the p.steering pump belt, but they seem to last almost forever.
How rusty is your engine tin? Good time to have it all stripped and powdercoated to keep it from disintegrating. Engine lid struts are very easy with the motor out.
We can spend as much of your money as you want!
07-28-2016, 12:43 PM
#11
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I had my clutch slave servo mechanism serviced. Tech said there was a TB on it. Whatever he did, it made a world of difference. Thought I needed to replace bushing in clutch pedal due to moaning and groaning when I pushed, but now she's smooth as silk.
07-28-2016, 04:28 PM
#12
Definitely check for any pugs in the engine compartment Aside: I haven't changed my wires, but they seem pretty easy to do once everything is removed for a valve adjust? Which everyone here is doing every ~20k miles anyway, right?
Dizzy belt and head temp sensor are easy to replace without pulling the motor. Of course, dizzy belt should definitely be changed on a scheduled basis (60k miles?).
I would pay close attention to all of the clutch area stuff that isn't required to change, but may need it: the throw-out bearing fork, needle/plastic fork bearings, trans input shaft seal behind the guide tube, rms seal, slave cylinder and flex hose, probably other stuff that I'm forgetting.
It's a good time to fix some oil leaks if you have any from the usual locations: oil pressure/temp sender seals, timing chain cover seals, around any of the threaded oil pipe locations. Replace the oil breather hose if it hasn't been done, cheap and they get rock hard and leak at the ends.
The high pressure power steering line off the pump is often a leaker, that will be accessible too. Doesn't hurt to look at the p.steering pump belt, but they seem to last almost forever.
How rusty is your engine tin? Good time to have it all stripped and powdercoated to keep it from disintegrating. Engine lid struts are very easy with the motor out.
We can spend as much of your money as you want!
Aside: I haven't changed my wires, but they seem pretty easy to do once everything is removed for a valve adjust? Which everyone here is doing every ~20k miles anyway, right?Dizzy belt and head temp sensor are easy to replace without pulling the motor. Of course, dizzy belt should definitely be changed on a scheduled basis (60k miles?).
I would pay close attention to all of the clutch area stuff that isn't required to change, but may need it: the throw-out bearing fork, needle/plastic fork bearings, trans input shaft seal behind the guide tube, rms seal, slave cylinder and flex hose, probably other stuff that I'm forgetting.
It's a good time to fix some oil leaks if you have any from the usual locations: oil pressure/temp sender seals, timing chain cover seals, around any of the threaded oil pipe locations. Replace the oil breather hose if it hasn't been done, cheap and they get rock hard and leak at the ends.
The high pressure power steering line off the pump is often a leaker, that will be accessible too. Doesn't hurt to look at the p.steering pump belt, but they seem to last almost forever.
How rusty is your engine tin? Good time to have it all stripped and powdercoated to keep it from disintegrating. Engine lid struts are very easy with the motor out.
We can spend as much of your money as you want!
There are some really good re-seal threads here and on Pelican.
My timing chain cover seals were shot - with the help of these threads and some tools borrowed from Rocket Rob (thank you, thank you, thank you) I was able to do a whole reseal including the pesky oil leak sources, front/rear main seals, and modify the AC bracket for future time savings.
07-29-2016, 04:11 PM
#14
I would check all the regular oil leak areas. +1 on timing chain housing seals. A bit more work than other known oil leaks, but worth the effort while the engine is out. Check out Perelet's oil leak fix thread on Pelican. You can also rebuild your injectors and power steering pump. Very good bang for the buck on those items. I took the opportunity and deleted my belt driven PSP and installed an electric pump in the frunk.