Rob, I thought it was some sort of electrical thingy, or what have you, which senses the engine is being run to higher revs and therefore compensates by dumping in extra oil. Just a wild guess though.

Christer, are you insinuating there may actually be NO oil in delhi's prospective buy?

 

No, I am not insinuating that there isn't any oil in the car. I am insinuating that it is a little bit like ringing your mate in the morning and telling him that Cameron Diaz spent the night trying to pull you in a bar ánd gave you her number but you can't believe that she would go for a guy like you so you ask 'Do I just dump her or what'? This sort of post cannot be a serious one as it defies logic, common sense and having a pulse. If indeed Delhi has found a car in such seemingly great condition then I would suggest a visit to the clinic to ensure that the perceived condition is indeed as good as it first looks. i.e. that you didn't have your beer goggles on and it was in fact your sister's mate who smells of cabbage and wears 8 pairs of glasses because she is so short-sighted instead of Cameron that was dry-humping your leg.

I hope this makes sense to somebody out there.

 

My 92 C2 at 48 K miles has no smoke or drips yet. I agree you should not warm the engine at idle. The Porsche recommendation has nothing to do with smog regulations. It is intended to extend engine life.

Cold engine parts and the cold oil condense moisture and acid from the hot combustion products. Condensation stops only after the oil and engine parts get hot. It will rain inside your engine case if you let a cold engine idle for a long time.

Accumulated moisture is driven off through the crankcase vent system when the engine finally gets hot, but you want to minimize the amount of accumulated acidic water. Putting a little load on the engine greatly speeds the warm-up. It does no harm as long as you are gentle until the oil temp gage is registering. I keep the RPM around 2000 until I see some indication on the temp gage.

On a related topic, one reason for oil changes is that the oil has buffers to neutralize acids that absorb into the oil. After the buffers are depleted, your oil will start to get progressively acidic. Folks that use expensive synthetics, and then extend change intervals are taking a greater risk, because there is no difference in the buffer loading from synthetics to the better mineral oils. I use synthetic, and change on the recommended interval (3000 mile if around town, 5000 miles if mostly on the highway).

 

hello,
i guess after doing research and sampling a few 964s that oil and smoke is like a part and parcel of old 911 ownership, i was amazed at the condition of this particular smokeless and dripless sample. From reading the replies, i guess it is a normal characteristic of a well taken cared off 911.
thanks!

 

Christer

you need some coffee or nicotine!!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Christer

" it was in fact your sister's mate who smells of cabbage"

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I've never heard anything like it!

 

I've only just read this thread for the first time. Funny how little gems like this can lurk behind such a plain looking wrapper!

P.S. Running at idle from cold apparently means the camshafts don't get an adequate oil supply.

 

Christer:

She did dry-sump my leg. I've been wondering where the spots on the garage floor came from.

 

that has SO lowered the tone of this thread!

 

I've seen that on 996s and Boxsters. They need to do a cool down lap after blasting on the track otherwise the oil will overflow when stopped immediately