Super90

I was able to pull the heat exchangers in my effort to chase oil leaks. This is what I am finding in terms of the oil lines connecting to the case. I put the wrenches on them, and both of these connections are tight.

I am replacing the drivers side oil line in the first photo (#54 in the parts catalog, that goes around the rear of the engine and up to the oil filter housing). I was not planning on replacing the hardline in the second photo, but do have the rubber line connecting to it.

What's the trick to making these connections tight and dry again?

Rocket Rob

If you have a leak, I would disconnect the line, clean everything and reassemble. Cleanliness is the key to a good seal from my experience.

ilko

I'd clean everything up thoroughly before replacing any parts. Then see where it's really leaking from. In many cases the drop you see on the bottom of the line actually comes from a place above it and it just gathers there. I see oil stains on the bottom of the head above it too...

Super90

I just cleaned it all up. Will let it sit over night and then start disassembling.

It sounds like all this goes back together just threads to threads.

Interestingly, there is very little room to get on the driver's side oil line with a wrench. Very little clearance with the oil return tube next to it on the one side, and that lug in the case on the other side. Hmmmm.

Gus

Get some Teflon tape and wrap the threads a couple of times. This will help seal fitting. After you clean area, start and run engine to get oil close to normal op temp. Oil may not leak in area if it is just cold. Then see if you can stuff rag or good paper towel in areas above fitting to ilemenate oil from above giving you a false reading.

Super90

Studying and reading more on this. Looks like these two connections rely on a compression fit? If so, the new line being replaced on the drivers side will likely seal better, but pulling and reinstalling the old line on passenger side is probably more challenging.

This is going to be one of those topics, I'm sure, but, I'm seeing posts saying teflon is not a good idea. Folks are mentioning Curil-T or Locktite 567 Thread Sealant. Any other insight here?

Thanks !

Gus

Need to use YELLOW teflon tape not white

abarthguy

That would be for gas, not oil......
And the threads are not the sealing area. It is at the joint. The threads just hold the joint together.
Save the teflon tape for your yard sprinklers.

Super90

So if the joint is the sealing area, what are the odds of getting that one old line (second photo) to reseal properly to the case?

-nick

There are aluminum sealing rings fitted between the case and the male-male threaded fittings. Just like the oil drain plug sealing ring. I've had a few leaks due to these rings corroding: around the case, oil filter hose lines, and oil t-stat. The male-male fittings are held in with loctite on the case side. Once I removed the fitting, I picked any leftover loctite out of the case threads before replacing. Of course, you have to make sure that the threads are dry and oil-free too. I would be very hesitant to use any kind of teflon tape. The original system seems to have a lifespan of 20+ years.

Make sure you have the right tools too. You need a thin open-ended wrench to hold the case fitting while you use another wrench to unscrew the oil line from it.

Check the PET for the sealing rings. Porsche made it extra-fun and used lots of different sized rings.

Super90

Yes, while I have the full set of oil line wrenches from Sir Tools, they won't get into the very limited space on the drivers side. Probably going to have to modify a box-end 36mm wrench and then go to the bike shop for a thin cross-section wrench.

Derek911

I think the OP'S question is how. Mine was changed before I got the car so I have never done it. But can that fitting on the case be removed without removing anything else? And if so what kind of wrenches are needed? I couldn't find a DIY on that oil line, but I know many people have done it. Is it easier than it looks?

Super90

OK, looks like the crush washer, or "sealing ring" is pictured here below as #21, which appears to be part number 900 123 118 30 (A22 x 27).




Still, getting that connection off with a wrench is a challenge.

I see a similar post on the 993 board here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ou-remove.html

tdiquattro

Did mine whilst changing the oil return tube. And the other side just cut away a small part of the tin and grind a small part of the gearbox to give access. Buy a pair of the cheap adjustable spanners off the bay that I reccomended last time they are essential and brilliant for all the oil fittings .

cobalt

I would clean everything first and run it for a while to see where the oil is coming from. It looks like you have more going on there than what you are looking at.

The odds of the crush washer going is slim. Usually these don't leak here but at the flexible section of the hose. I have never seen loctite used on any of the cars I have worked on. Teflon tape isn't going to help here either it might stop a leak for a while but it is not how the seal is made.

Do not cut or grind the engine shrouds these are magnesium and you will just be opening a can of worms. Not to mention ou could start a fire. It is tight but it can be done without making any mods and if you have an old style adjustable with flat parallel jaws it works the best. Although I would not touch the line until you determine where the oil is coming from and it looks like it is not the culprit to me.

In either case you want to clean all that burnt on oil.