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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 01:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by kokolyia
An update on the symptoms: it's smooth to put into first when I first start it and go, but over time and on longer drives it gets progressively harder and then much harder
As mentined above id still be looking at the roll pin first as its easier to check that than it is to bleed the slave. Also bleeding the slave can be a bit fiddly due to lack of room which could introduce more probems(aka air) without sorting he original issue. Of all the 911 clutches i have bled i have never seen air come out, just dirty fluid which probably wouldnt be causing the issues you describe anyways.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 02:27 PM
  #17  
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As badluck mentions, a few minutes searching will bring up the bleed procedure. Not difficult with a pressurised bleeder, a tight arm and short (cut in half) spanner/wrench for the bleed ipple.

I know what you neam jevvy, but if a mecahnical or pin issue then you'd think the problem would be consistant at any temp - which it isn't... I would though check all movement around the pedals as in my case I did also end up cutting back some of that stuipid pedal carpet to get full pedal travel!
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 09:02 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by kokolyia
Not yet but I will soon. Do I only need to bleed the clutch? Also, would I need something like the Bosch Hammer or is it relatively simple to DIY (without a lift)?
Yes, just bleed the clutch slave cylinder. I've had good luck using a power bleeder from Motiv. The steps are pretty simple

1) Jack up the rear of the car and remove the left side wheel. Don't forget your jack stands.

2) Open the trunk and clamp off the brake reservoir vent tube.

3) Attach your power bleeder to the brake reservoir cap and pressurize the power bleeder to 15 psi

4) Attach a hose and catch bottle to the slave cylinder bleed nipple

5) Open the bleed nipple with a 7mm wrench. Continue bleeding until all air stops and you see clean brake fluid.

6) Close the bleed nipple and detach the hose.

7) Depressurize the power bleeder and reassemble everything.

Total time should be approx 15-30 minutes depending on practice.

Note: I have the Motiv Power Bleeder which has a metal "European" adapter which perfectly on our cars. When I bleed, I put 1 qt of brake fluid into my power bleeder. When finished, I save an unused brake fluid and then rinse out the unit with denatured alcohol. Some others here will bleed with the power bleeder dry which can work too. The key is to use the power bleeder, instead of stepping on the clutch pedal.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Yes, just bleed the clutch slave cylinder. I've had good luck using a power bleeder from Motiv. The steps are pretty simple

1) Jack up the rear of the car and remove the left side wheel. Don't forget your jack stands.

2) Open the trunk and clamp off the brake reservoir vent tube.

3) Attach your power bleeder to the brake reservoir cap and pressurize the power bleeder to 15 psi

4) Attach a hose and catch bottle to the slave cylinder bleed nipple

5) Open the bleed nipple with a 7mm wrench. Continue bleeding until all air stops and you see clean brake fluid.

6) Close the bleed nipple and detach the hose.

7) Depressurize the power bleeder and reassemble everything.

Total time should be approx 15-30 minutes depending on practice.

Note: I have the Motiv Power Bleeder which has a metal "European" adapter which perfectly on our cars. When I bleed, I put 1 qt of brake fluid into my power bleeder. When finished, I save an unused brake fluid and then rinse out the unit with denatured alcohol. Some others here will bleed with the power bleeder dry which can work too. The key is to use the power bleeder, instead of stepping on the clutch pedal.
Thank you! Does it matter which brand of brake fluid is in the car because I have no idea what the previous owner used.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 01:25 PM
  #20  
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You want a good quality DOT 4, any brand should be fine if you are using the car on the street. If you are using it on the track then you may want to invest in the better brands. I use ATE Super Blue/Gold in my cars.

While you have the car up in the air, that would be a good time to bleed the brakes too. The pressure bleeder will do both. You want to change your fluid every two years for street driving.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 04:51 PM
  #21  
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Bleed bleed and more bleed. If that doesn't solve the issue then it's a beat clutch. I have to go in the garage myself and put in a new clutch slave cyl into the coupe. Being lazy on the couch. Then I get to bleed. Fun fun.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 11:22 PM
  #22  
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Greg,

What is the sign a clutch slave needs replacing? Leaking?
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 11:28 PM
  #23  
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For me on both 964's it was the pedal not coming up completely even after a bleed. And the coupe also wouldn't bleed at all with the Motive brand power bleeder. You definitely need to buy one of those. The hose also cracks and starts letting in air. Since the hose is $30 and slave is $80, and a not so fun job, just do them both once.
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