Notices
964 Forum 1989-1994
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Hydrolock or not? How do I fix it?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 21, 2015 | 02:55 PM
  #1  
vsouvann's Avatar
vsouvann
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Default Hydrolock or not? How do I fix it?

Since my last posting, I've been reading about hydroloc. I haven't had time to pull the distributor shaft and reset the TDC, but I'm concerned about the possibility of hydroloc.
Before I decided to work on my car, I over filled the oil. I added a couple of quarts without checking. Started the car and ran it around the block and pulled back into the garage with a trail of white smoke that fogged up the neighborhood. I let the car sit and I could see puddle of oil on the floor three hours later. It took me a couple of days to finish find time to drain it and address the leaks and other issues. I changed the valve gaskets, chain cover gaskets, plugs, distributors rotors and caps, and added the extended oil return tubes. I pulled the distributor shaft and replaced the o ring. I olso got new oil breather and oil sensor gaskets.
Being a newbie, I ran into my challenges. Thanks to Rennlisters, I manage to get out of it thus far.
Long story short, I tried to start the car and it was not turning over. It tried to rotate for a split second, then nothing. It was unable to complete a rotato. The good news is that I was able to turn the crank shaft when I was looking for Z1 earlier.
On my earlier post, many members are suggesting the distributor is not properly set. I will check it out.
Question:
Could the misaligned distributor shaft cause this?
How do I check for Hydrolock?
If that's the case, how do I get out of it?
I would hate to remove the heat exchangers and other exhaust parts again. Just the thought of it makes me tear up on the inside. I have all next week to work on it.
Hopefully, I hadn't done a whole of damage yet.
Reply
Old Nov 21, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #2  
crg53's Avatar
crg53
Rennlist Member
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 17
From: Vancouver Island, BC , Canada
Default

If you suspect a hydro lock, I would remove the bottom 6 spark plugs, and then try to rotate the engine, first by hand, then with the help of the stater motor.
To confirm the distributor is properly set, you have to set the engine at TDC, with both intake and exhaust closed on cylinder #1, and then check the rotors align with the marks on the distributor housing

Reply
Old Nov 21, 2015 | 07:36 PM
  #3  
vsouvann's Avatar
vsouvann
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Default

Is it necessary to remove the heat exchangers/exhaust pipes?
Reply
Old Nov 21, 2015 | 08:48 PM
  #4  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems's Avatar
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
RL Technical Advisor
 
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,870
Likes: 75
From: Portland Oregon
Default

Originally Posted by vsouvann
Is it necessary to remove the heat exchangers/exhaust pipes?
If I thought I hydrolocked the engine, you bet I would!

Its not hard to bend a rod when this happens so the very first thing to do is ensuring the cylinders are completely clear of excess oil, by pulling the lower plugs and heat exchangers to help excess oil to drain out without filling the HE's with oil and ruining the cat & mufflers.
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2015 | 08:46 PM
  #5  
vsouvann's Avatar
vsouvann
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Default

Well, it took me a while to put the car together. It was a case of Hydrolock. I got the oil out of the cylinder. The car fired up the first tried, but there is a knocking sound in the engine. It sounded like it's coming from the right side of the engine. I turn the engine off. The engine is idling ok considering it's been off line for two months.
Question:
Bent Rod?
If that's the case, how much would it cost to get a shop to do it? (Rough estimate)

Last edited by vsouvann; Dec 12, 2015 at 11:24 AM.
Reply




All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:19 PM.