Doug H

Rob:

Mine has the 993 roof and I think the lines are very nice with that roof. I am not sure I like the way it folds up though. It seems like it wants to bunch up more in the back when going down. Hard to explain, but the fit may not be exactly right. My 88 with the old style top went down much smoother.

Wachuko

Anyone with photos of a 964 with the 993 cabrio top? I am too close to needing to replace the top in my 964 (holding well for now but I can tell it will not be long before a new one needs to be installed)...

What are the benefits? What are the changes??? Side to side comparison anyone?

Thanks!

Doug H

Here you go. Kind of cramped photo. I could get some better one's latter if you want.

Wachuko

Thank you Doug! So the difference is that I would lose the capability of zipping the back window since in the 993 is a one piece unit... Looks good nevertheless.

Ruairidh

Also I think the rear window is smaller. That said the 993 roof looks sleeker (IMHO).

therashman

Some years ago I owned a 'sissy' Z3 2.8. I had a lot of roof problems which even with warranty, BMW could not ultimately fix. The problems surrounded the electronic mechanism.

The stress of the uncertainty of mechanism drove me insane. Eventually, I decided that I had a 'dud' car and handed the car back to BMW (with some loss on hand). In the end I opted for the SLK and since then have never looked back. I can definitely say I would never go back to a 'rag top' after my bitter experience.

Phil Raby

Hi Rob

I was at an MG show at the weekend and chatted to a guy at the Car Hood Warehouse, primarily about their glass rear window conversion for the TF, but I also asked him about your problem. He said they see this a lot and it's usually down to a motor jamming. They've found the best solution is to send the offending item to an expert in Germany for testing and repair - a bog-standard aluminium weld usually fails again. They can then rebuild the hood and sort out any mechanical problems.

The company has a nationwide home service. If you're interested, the number is 020 8778 8864.

Cheers

robmug

Thanks Phil.

Jerry Garwick

Rob

I had the exact same thing happen right after i bought my cab last summer. I tool the thing apart and had the broken atrut welded by a good aluminum welding shop. Cost less than $100 US. I did not rip the top, though, so the total cost was a bargin. I found that the problem was worn ends on the drive cables. I had a local farm implement shop make new ones. Lots of very similar things on farm implements, I found out. They were considerable cheaper than the Porsche replacements. Top is now great.

Jerry Garwick

Lorenfb

Just lubing the motors and linkage may not avoid this type of problem.
If the cab top controller fails or one of its sensor switches, a major failure
can occur. Therefore, lubing can help avoid problems, but not totally prevent
them.

Good Luck
Loren

Herbie

My '91 cab did it TWO times!

First time in 2002: only the left arm was broken; welded.

Second time: may 2003, the right arm, in the same manner. But this time... canvas was ripped: arm welded and canvas changed ($$$), ops, (€€€)!

I'm an engineer, I feel to know the difference between a well designed mechanism and a cheapest realization. Electric cab is the worst component of a 964. A simple "non-sinchronization" between the motors can cause disasters.

But, especially to K1-91C2: did you only keep tightened the bolts ?

To realize this (safe) semi-automatic system I have two questions:

- Are the motors still electrically connected ?
- Do you have a perfect working, without Capote warning signal on ?
- Are the switches relative to right arm still connected ?

Thanks

Herbie

Doug H

A very good point has been raised. Make sure you check the bolts at various joints on the convertible top. I had one fall off one day and luckily, the top grinded to a halt and the fuse blew when trying to put it down. I say luckily, because something would probably have broke and ripped the top had the fuse not blown.

I have had the same nut/bolt come loose again. It is the ones that require an allen wrench on the frame joints. If those get loose, the top does apparently twist a bit when going down.

I have since WD40ed all of the joints on the top frame and even shot around the motor mechanish with WD40. Not sure if that is a wise idea, but my top now works much smoother and makes much less crecking noises when being operated.

maverick

I had the same failure on my "91 C2. The cost of part and labour was @ $560. The initial failure was the cable mechanism, dealer fix @ $260! The issue with the part was that they were on back order from Porsche. The dealer told me it had been o back order for 12 months due to the 3rd party manufacturer for Porsche having a broken mold and more business building the parts for new cars to get it fixed. I eventually got mine new but not through the dealer.
Maverick

cafebisque

Hi there,

I have been absent for several years from the forum. Anyhow, I had a similiar issue several years back on my c2 CAB. The cable was stripped and it caused on side to raise unevenly. The loud snap was a metal brace on the right side. Instead of purchasing a new assembly for a ridiculous price, I had it welded and installed. At the same time, the cable was replaced. No problems now in three years.

Total repair with the new fabric was appx. $1800.

Good luck,

Alex G: