azander

Hi Everyone!

Has anyone performed a complete HVAC and CCU delete for a street car?

Up to this point I've been removing things from the car for the sake of simplicity (repair costs too) and weight. In this case, my CCU buttons are broken, all the fans squeak (sounds like a fax machine at times), the hot air servos don't seem to work all the time, my a/c has been deleted (except the evaporator). I'm debating heatless headers. I sometimes crank the fans to help circulate air in the summer (not very effective).

Below are the problems I'd have and potential solutions I'm hoping someone could weigh in on.

1) No windshield and side window defogging - Any decent interior anti-fog coating?
2) Some cabin heating - Heating pads under the cushions of my buckets?
3) Dash aesthetics - Blanking plate for the CCU, keep pointless vents in place? Any images of a dash w/o the CCU?
4) Oil cooling - wire a High and Low speed switch to control the fan?

Anything else to consider? Thanks in advance for any tips!

justin-in-athens

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Alu...ductinfo/DA67/
I'd order it in black.

One of my dash fans went out this week. I just replaced the other side this past summer--what a headache! I had no AC in my '89, but I retained heat. No heat seems like a cold proposition in Vancouver, but maybe it won't be too bad.

azander

JiA - That one looks pretty cool.

I don't mind the look of this either, and I can keep the knee pads and glove box: http://www.ottority.com/sites/defaul...r_interior.jpg

Duck

If you need to wire in any switches, this is an option.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Hea...oductinfo/I20/

koenig_roland

1) i`ve a heated windshield, so no problems with fogging.
2) my car has also no heat (next week, i`m going to get some headers with heat) yet and i helped myself the an aftermarket heating pad that fits in the bucket seat. No problems, down to 0°C... but not realy comfortable. If you only drive at temperature above 10°C - i think it is doable...

4) try to use the override switch DIY here on rennlist. Different opportunities to solve this problem or to enable the fan manually. Easiest and best solution should be a second oil-cooler instead the clima cooler at the drivers side - with the additions cooling-power, you shouldn`t need the fan anymore...

964George

This could get interesting subscribed

justin-in-athens

The oil cooler fan override switch that 964 owners normally install involves some pin jumping at the CCU, so without it you are going to need to devise some kind of alternate wiring scheme. King roland's idea on installing a second oil cooler where the AC condenser is/was currently would be optimal, but that is a lot of plumbing and additional weight.

The fan on the cooler is more effective than people give it credit for. While it cannot cool down a hot car, it can prevent a car from getting too warm if it actuates sooner rather than later.

creaturecat

i say you will be screwed without heat, driving in Vancouver in the winter.
Too much damp air.
window defogging can be an issue, even with heat.

cobalt

I used this on my track build it is nice but not perfect. It leaves gaps on the sides i find unsightly. I drilled into it to install whatever switches and add ons I needed. Far less costly than all the delete parts added up however are you considering deleting your airbags?

You can just remove the relay and add a jumper between two terminals I can give you the ones if needed. I run my fan on my track car all the time by using the jumper it turns on with the key. The cooler can get heat soaked. By the time the fan kicks in it can be too late. Better to never let the temps get too high initially.

I honestly wish I had kept the heat in my car. There are some track days it is just too cold to drive around with windows open but the weight savings was considerable.

justin-in-athens

Well I keep waiting for someone to knock off that RS heater blower delete tube in ABS plastic. I mean $265 for a piece of pipe! I don't care if it is carbon fiber. If you were to just install this, and leave the vents/ducts open in the front, you'd have enough heat I think. The problem at that point would be devising a way to shut if off.

@cobalt, I can see your solution to the cooler problem--I just don't want to run my fan ALL of the time, but for a track car, i'd say that is a perfect remedy.

DobermanDad

You can make one with some 3" flexible intake hose from say Pepboys or Autozone.

Not as pretty, but gets the job done.

azander

Cobalt - I gather you just jumped it to run on High constantly? I see a resistor on the electrical diagram which I gather is for the low speed setting. Is there anything wrong with constantly running the High setting on the street?

Secondly, I see an Oil temp sensor which feeds to the CCU. Does that have anything to do with the one for the gauge and other functions? I don't see the CCU relaying this sensor to anything else. Seems like there are two oil temp sensors.

justin-in-athens

the one for the gauge lives on the front side of the motor.

cobalt

yes it is on high all the time. I plan on running wires for both low and high speeds bypassing the relay and run them to a switch on my dash this winter. This way I have an off for cold days, low for cool days and high for hot days.

I believe this sensor sends info to the CCU which will turn it on if the oil temp is to hot after the car is shut down but don't hold me to it.

sotothehail

I also have removed my CCU, in the meantime I am using a jumper instead of the relay. However, I plan on wiring in a small microcontroller to control the Oil Cooler fan relay (Particle Photon).

Using one of the ADC pins, I was hoping to watch the resistance on T-34 to get the temperature reading at the oil cooler and then control the relay as needed.

From p-car.com DIY Section on Oil Cooler: