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964 C4 light refurb

 
Old 06-30-2017, 06:00 AM
  #706  
John McM
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Case sealing is imminent. Torque wrenches set, nuts and washers counted. Tightening sequence written on the case. Any tips from those that have done this before ?
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Old 06-30-2017, 06:04 AM
  #707  
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I did a test of Threebond 1104 Neo curing time. I put down six blobs and ran a finger across successive ones at five minute intervals. It cures quite quickly.

I've decided to use Loctite 574 for the case as I will have plenty of time to spread it. I will put a smear of Threebond 1104 Neo on the nose bearing outer edge as it's flexible which is a quality i want in that area.
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Old 06-30-2017, 11:01 AM
  #708  
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Do you need the trick where you slip the O rings over the through bolts using a sharpie cap and some lube? Post 6 in here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-e...6-rebuild.html
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Old 06-30-2017, 12:57 PM
  #709  
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The cure on threebond in open air vs not, would this effect test? Look ready for organized kaos to me.. Remember, if you make a video and excessive screaming and yelling occurs, over dub of soothing classical guitar and subtitles is your friend.

Now is the time folks, reassuring guidance of those with experience insert HERE ...
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Old 06-30-2017, 03:35 PM
  #710  
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Originally Posted by ffc
Do you need the trick where you slip the O rings over the through bolts using a sharpie cap and some lube? Post 6 in here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-e...6-rebuild.html
Thanks, yes I do have that. Plus I have two sizes of plastic tubing to get the oring off the sharpie and properly seated.

That was a a great thread. Ive bookmarked it
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Old 06-30-2017, 03:39 PM
  #711  
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Originally Posted by C4inLA
The cure on threebond in open air vs not, would this effect test? Look ready for organized kaos to me.. Remember, if you make a video and excessive screaming and yelling occurs, over dub of soothing classical guitar and subtitles is your friend.

Now is the time folks, reassuring guidance of those with experience insert HERE ...
The point with the Threebond curing test is that it shows that you need to place the sealant on the case quickly enough to ensure it doesn't cure before mating the halves. Too quick for me. Loctite 574 doesn't start curing until the halves are closed so that's what I'm using.

I will video the procedure. That seems to be a gap in the threads as everyone is too busy at that point.
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Old 06-30-2017, 04:29 PM
  #712  
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Very excited for you and your progress.

A note on through bolt o-rings:
"One other note we felt is SUPER important that I think a lot of issues come from is the improper installation of the case through bolt
o-rings. It is very important to use the Genuine Porsche 000.721.951.10 factory tool to insure proper installation of these o-rings to insure they are not damaged and end up in the right position for a proper seal. It is an odd looking little 2 pc tool that is basically a piece of specific sized tubing with two different id sizes machined in. Then there is a little conical extra piece that helps spread the o-ring to get it to go in properly. It retails for approx. 75.00 from Porsche ($45 from Sunset). I am sure you could make one but in the grand scheme of things it might just best be purchased and used as the factory says. I think many leaks are caused by these o-rings being damaged upon installation.

See> http://forums.pelicanparts.com/1777719-post12.html for some info on this tool."
Porsche factory tool or not, it's one of the finer points of this process.

I know you have been studying this all very diligently, so you will nail it !

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Old 06-30-2017, 04:50 PM
  #713  
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Yes, I have researched that and have a similar solution
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Old 06-30-2017, 05:05 PM
  #714  
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As an aside this is one point I've yet to reconcile.

The WSM states that you shouldn't push the o ring onto the collar.

I tested the WSM placing and the results were not consistent in where the O ring ended up. I will place it right on the edge of the collar. BTW the P fix it DVD pushes the O ring right up on the collar, which is effectively where the other one ends up with the cap and tool.
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Old 06-30-2017, 06:56 PM
  #715  
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Originally Posted by John McM View Post
Yes, I have researched that and have a similar solution
Excellent stuff, and good luck.
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Old 06-30-2017, 07:38 PM
  #716  
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Pic
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Old 06-30-2017, 07:56 PM
  #717  
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We did the same thing as cavemen ... We make tools and forge ... I saw where someone made a piston circlip tool from two sizes of copper pipe that seemed to work great ...
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Old 07-01-2017, 12:32 AM
  #718  
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Wow that was intense.
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:56 AM
  #719  
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Congrats on the major milestone. Seams look great to me... Look forward to your "reality vs perception" thoughts on the various steps...

I built my own 6ft reef tank of 1/2" low iron glass and handled 75lb glass panels. Adhesive needed to be applied and panels assembled in less than eight minutes before special adhesive skinned over and would be a FAIL, was intense, perhaps not 25,000 dollar Engine Case intense... Well done!
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Old 07-01-2017, 02:18 AM
  #720  
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Total time elapsed was one hour, of which 12 minutes was getting the halves together. Lessons learned:

1. Three people are better than two when putting the case halves together. Two people on the crankshaft and one to help mesh with the intermediate gear and align the nose bearing with its dowel. Then two to hold the case half while the third person helps clear the chain and rods. We took 12 minutes to get the crankshaft in and case halves together.

2. Prior preparation of as many things as possible is a real timesaver e.g, torque wrenches set, washers coated with 111, and numbers written on the case for the tightening sequence. It also helps to put out all of the nuts and washers to be fitted as you know you are finished when they are all gone.

3. Loctite 574 is a forgiving sealant for first timers as it won't start curing until the case halves are together. If I had used Threebond today I think it would have well and truly skinned before I got it torqued down.

5. A quality artists brush is great for putting the Loctite 574 on.

6. The sharpie cap method for installing o rings needs mods. The cap is quite tight on the stud and the Molykote 111 makes it greasy. A screw into its top makes it easier to pull out. I would now like to make up a better tool to get the o ring off the sharpie. I used cotton buds which worked ok. The plastic tubes were great.

Overall a 7 out of 10. I'd be an 8 or 9 on my next go.

Last edited by John McM; 07-02-2017 at 06:02 AM.
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