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Wow for some reason I can't get offsets clear in my head. Must be my dyslexia.
Had my 61 and 41's mixed up but corrected it.
From what I read the 47 will work as we determined but ET 40 only seems to work with -3 degrees camber with 650 pound springs and rolled fenders or 255 vs 265 tires. Not something I would want to run for the street.
Bingo,
10J ET40 it's not an easy fitment, but it is perfectly possible with the right mods. I have this fitment on Betty, because she's setup the way I want her for track work.
This fitment works because of the marriage of tyres, geometry, ride height, and physical mods to wheel arch lips, brackets, arch liners.
10J ET47 is on the other hand an easy fitment for a road car with slight negative camber, which I've recommended countless times without issue.
Frank can you please take a picture of your rear guards showing how they have been modified/rolled? Also an explanation of what was done?.
Hi,
I can't take new pictures at the moment since Betty is being rebuilt.
Up front I have flattened the wheel arch lips, angle grinded the bracket back that holds the bumper to arch, cut clearance holes in the wheel arch liners. On the rear I have just flattened the arch lips. I run alot of negative camber as it's setup for track use. There are two reasons why I run this setup amongst the usual advantages:
The FWD system means I am not relying on just the rear wheels for drive. So the rear contact patch can be reduced with negtive camber as I also have front driven wheels also.
The wider tyres afford me a greater contact patch and thus greater negative camber is achieved without reducing the contact patch significantlty. In other words despite my greater negative camber I still have more contact patch than a standard tyres with road going camber.
I run lower than RS. By how much I don't know as I've just lowered the centre of gravity as much within what my aggressive geometry's capabilities without personal compromise.
I run square sidewalled R888 Toyos & AD08 Yokohamas - 225 8J and 165 10J
I am looking at a set of wheels in the following size/offset this week:
18x8.5 front and 18x10.5 rear...I will be at RS spec, so not super low, will I still need to roll fenders, probably eh?
Rear Width 10 1/2 et45 (seems as though they would just fit if I am not mistaken - but the question is can I run a 285/35/18 tire?) 265 looked too stretched on a 9.5, can't imagine it on a 10.5
Front width 8 1/2 et45 (not sure this will work and the other question is can I run a 235/40/18 tire?) 225/40 looked too stretched
________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________
I've searched this topic to death with so many threads, and my eyes are going crosseyed
I've been using this calculator and it's very helpful, but I am not sure how much inner vs outter clearance I actually have between fender and the oil lines in the rear and the front fender. I want to make sure that I don't rub: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php...et2=44#content
Last edited by 18T_BT; Nov 23, 2015 at 05:27 PM.
Reason: links
I am looking at a set of wheels in the following size/offset this week:
18x8.5 front and 18x10.5 rear...I will be at RS spec, so not super low, will I still need to roll fenders, probably eh?
Rear Width 10 1/2 et45 (seems as though they would just fit if I am not mistaken - but the question is can I run a 285/35/18 tire?) 265 looked too stretched on a 9.5, can't imagine it on a 10.5
Front width 8 1/2 et45 (not sure this will work and the other question is can I run a 235/40/18 tire?) 225/40 looked too stretched
________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________
I've searched this topic to death with so many threads, and my eyes are going crosseyed
I've been using this calculator and it's very helpful, but I am not sure how much inner vs outter clearance I actually have between fender and the oil lines in the rear and the front fender. I want to make sure that I don't rub: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php...et2=44#content
You will regret trying to cram that much in such a tight space. You literally will have no room for sidewall flex and no way you can run a 285 on a 10.5 and have it fit.
Rear Width 10 1/2 et45 (seems as though they would just fit if I am not mistaken - but the question is can I run a 285/35/18 tire?) 265 looked too stretched on a 9.5, can't imagine it on a 10.5
Front width 8 1/2 et45 (not sure this will work and the other question is can I run a 235/40/18 tire?) 225/40 looked too stretched
8.5J will want a 225, which isn't a stretch. I've run this. You would also want to roll/ flatten arches, angle grind back the bumper to wing bracket, bring the caster back, increase negative camber, a make clearance holes in the arch liners. 235 would be really pushing the limits and give you more trouble than it's worth.
The ET however is too low imo. For an 8.5 you really want to be as close to ET52 as possible.
The rears at 10.5J ET45 will want a 275 at most. At this fitment you will encounter issues. You would have to run lots of negative camber, roll/ flatten your arch lips and flatten your oil line to stop fouling. This would be an extreme fitment that will cause lots of head aches.
Remember that the profile number is a percentage of the tyres width. That is to say that a 225/40 has a smaller profile than a 235/40...
The sweet spot for these cars in terms of aftermarket wheels is 8J ET52 and 10J ET47 with 225/40 and 265/35 respectively - which requires a slightly more aggressive geometry setup.
Last edited by BLACK-BETTY; Nov 23, 2015 at 07:23 PM.
I don't know the exact specs but has definitely come done considerably from standard US height when I had my KW V3s installed. I can't come done anymore due to driveway issues.
I know there are some that come with extra bolts, so you bolt the spacer onto the hub, then bolt the wheel to the spacer. Then there are spacers that want you to remove the current studs and add longer ones.
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