Aircooled964

Hi there!

I've removed the wiring from my driver door to have the common check strap damage fixed.

I'm reconnecting wires and cannot find where the connector in the image goes.

I'm new to this so any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

LM964

Outside door mirror connector...

Aircooled964

Thanks a lot!

Have felt my way around almost every crack and crevice in the door at this stage.

LM964

There's a lot in there.

While you are there with the panels and membranes off check the window riser rail - the 'U' shaped rail that the window glass sits in. This is prone to rusting through where water ends up collecting and never draining. My riser rail collapsed and the window disappeared down the door when I least needed it to!

Lubricate any window mechanisms you can access in the tight space.

Aircooled964

Will do! Didn't even cross my mind to grease it up.

Thanks again, much appreciated!

Aircooled964

Since I've disconnected the wires and reconnected, when I lock the car the alarm goes off. I disarm and try to start the car, she turns over but doesn't start. I'm guessing the immobiliser is kicking in. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Thanks!

Aircooled964

Hi Again,

I've been through countless posts reading up on the actuator, door wiring loom, the microswitch etc.. but am still stuck

I lock the car via the remote, the red door leds(activated by the induction coil) are not coming on(they were previously). The alarm is armed and a few seconds later is set off. I disarm/unlock and insert the immobiliser key, only one light on the centre console lights ups and normal immobilisier chirp. I turn the key and she cranks but won't start. She was starting fine prior to this.

Could a change in position of the actuator cause this? There is just a single connection and 2 screws to hold it in place, anything else i'm missing?

Or could it be a fault with the microswitch?

Is there something else critical that is required?

Any help at all would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

LM964

Strangely enough I also had this the other day. Working on the rear exhaust, power steering flush, spoiler and oil pipes then also labelling up my front relays (housekeeping). All done but the engine wouldn't fire up afterwards. Spent 4 hours double checking anything that I may have touched electrically over the course of the week.

Illogically, replaced any relays that I removed as redundant to me (i.e. front fogs, headlight wash etc) thinking that might help. Nada. Then one by one went through each and every fuse. Found the central door locking fuse had blown when I thought I always had solenoid problems (always thinking the worse instead of the simple!)

Fuse replaced and still no engine fire up until, for no reason, I locked/unlocked the central locking a few times, armed and disarmed the immobiliser from the key fob, the horn briefly sounded for a second (no idea why). Turned key and hey presto - engine back to life and happy.

Still not sure what triggered the success. Assuming a combination of fuse replacement and then me activating/deactivating central locking and then the same for the immobiliser. Somewhere in all that the immobiliser reset(?) itself and allowed life into the DME etc.

Would be grateful to know how you got on and anyone else's better explanation. My next task is to get an auto electrical to rip out all the crap aftermarket immobilisers, alarms and cowboy cabling that seem to get added with more than one previous owner.

Aircooled964

Thank you for the sanity check!!

What I didn't mention, was the job I did before this was chasing a battery drain( which I found in the driver door open/close switch). Thus I didn't even think to check fuses again.

Checked them after work today and the horn(no big deal) and the FUEL PUMP!! were gone. 2 new fuses and she's burbling again! Woohoo!! Only a week wasted checking wiring etc 😄

I know exactly what you mean about the wiring, have the same going on in mine. Need to get half of it stripped out! For the upfront relays, do you have the legend under the lid of the fuse box?

Thanks again for you help! I was really getting frustrated by it! 👍😊

LM964

Indeed, it's crazy all this auto electrickery trying to catch us out. We methodically work through issues and occasionally with no (apparent) logic things suddenly work, or don't work. I had a look at some images of 928 wiring and relay assemblies - absolute nightmare in comparison so consider myself very lucky (had 3 different 928's in the past, thankfully non bombed out electrically).

I am certain that after many aftermarket immobiliser installations and the legacy wiring this creates there has to be some interference somewhere.

Relieved you managed to sort your problem out. I hate reading non-starter topics - gives me the heebie jeebies!

Relay map and labels attached (I always keep a printout in the glove box). Would be good to map also the rear engine compartment, under dash and under seat relays too (if anyone knows where/what).





Porsche 964 Front Relay Map