filter-chip-exhaust
#1
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filter-chip-exhaust
I want to buy a new air filter ,chip, and exhaust.
What will be the adv./disadv.?
What is the difference between drilled airbox and a new sport filter?
What is the best filter?
I really don't know what to do whit the exhaust,so every tip is welcome.
(What is a cup pipe?)
Thanks in advance,
Chris
964 C2 '92
What will be the adv./disadv.?
What is the difference between drilled airbox and a new sport filter?
What is the best filter?
I really don't know what to do whit the exhaust,so every tip is welcome.
(What is a cup pipe?)
Thanks in advance,
Chris
964 C2 '92
#2
Chris
It would be helpful to know your budget, the reason for doing this, whether you still need to pass emissions, whether you still want to run with an undertray on, whether you have strict sound controls, how loud do you want it etc
It would be helpful to know your budget, the reason for doing this, whether you still need to pass emissions, whether you still want to run with an undertray on, whether you have strict sound controls, how loud do you want it etc
#3
Chris, you're gonna get a lot of different ideas, most allof them good. I'll just be first to open this can of worms. I've been down this road and if I had it to do all over again from what I've learned this is all I'd do,
1. Get a chip from Steve Wung(sp?) or a company called Cyntex in west chester PA usa. I believe most cataloged chips are junk and you should take the time to work with guys to get the best enhancement.
2. Cut or drill your air box cover. Never mind with the fancy after market stuff or a K&N filter. Some reports have it that this is the fastest way to a good intake sound as well a little better flow. The stock air box has venturi on exit side that maintains the proper air velocity.
3. Get a "cup pipe" to replace the primary muffler. This eliminates the lowest flowing link in the exhaust and gives a nice sporty sound.
4. Don't believe any of the HP claims of these items. Consensus is that you will gain maybe 5-7 HP with this set up. But the most important thing on these cars is to not lose your low end torque. After all how often do you get use that 5-7 hp at 6000 rpm?
I'll add that all this will set you back about $800USD verses thousands if you get caught up in the hype....
I'm putting on my flame retardant suit now.....
1. Get a chip from Steve Wung(sp?) or a company called Cyntex in west chester PA usa. I believe most cataloged chips are junk and you should take the time to work with guys to get the best enhancement.
2. Cut or drill your air box cover. Never mind with the fancy after market stuff or a K&N filter. Some reports have it that this is the fastest way to a good intake sound as well a little better flow. The stock air box has venturi on exit side that maintains the proper air velocity.
3. Get a "cup pipe" to replace the primary muffler. This eliminates the lowest flowing link in the exhaust and gives a nice sporty sound.
4. Don't believe any of the HP claims of these items. Consensus is that you will gain maybe 5-7 HP with this set up. But the most important thing on these cars is to not lose your low end torque. After all how often do you get use that 5-7 hp at 6000 rpm?
I'll add that all this will set you back about $800USD verses thousands if you get caught up in the hype....
I'm putting on my flame retardant suit now.....
#4
Three Wheelin'
91C2- regarding your recommendation #2 on the airbox- I am looking to do this mod. What do you mean by a venturi on the exit side- you mean the back side of the airbox that's closest to the intake of the motor, or are you referring to the curved "horn" on the piece that will be cut? (obviously if your referring to that horn as being a venturi, cutting holes in that side would take away any venturi effect). I will admit I don't want to actually cut my airbox, so I'm thinking of going with the fabspeed cover and keeping my original cover un cut. I see your comment that none of these change HP drastically- I'm looking for some of that extra "sound" that people on this board seem to love from the cut airbox mod (well some people on the board like the extra sounds anyway...)
#5
Yes, if you were to remove the cover and filter, take a look at where the venturi goes into the mass flow flapper thingy( I've been warned not to call it a MAF sensor) and you'll see what i'm talking about. This is the part that you lose if you go with most after market filter setups. I believe that Porsche designed that venturi very well and it is expensive to get that type of shape with the after market.... The intake horn is there to reduce the intake noise and possibly to get to some cooler air. After you mod the box the horn is useless....
#6
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I went with the cone filter and chip from Evo Motorsports. As for the exhaust, I bought the secondary bypass from Type 911 in the UK to save a few bucks; however, you can get all of the items from Evo.
I prefer the sound of both the cone and secondary bypass over a cut airbox and primary (cup) pipe. I don't believe I've compromised any of the performance capabilities of my car with these mods.
I prefer the sound of both the cone and secondary bypass over a cut airbox and primary (cup) pipe. I don't believe I've compromised any of the performance capabilities of my car with these mods.
#7
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I'd like to add a little to this thread.
Earlier this year our region (Riesentoter) went to AWE Tuning for a charity Dyno day. One of the guys was interested in a "cup pipe" primary muffler bypass pipe as well as finding out how much power his C4 was putting to the ground. Part of the attraction to AWE is that they have a four wheel chassis dyno. Add to this they build exhaust systems and you have a wonderful importunity to answer a couple of questions that seems to get thrown out during these upgrade discussion's.
Anyway, I'll cut to the chase. The car was run on the dyno and data captured. The car was then rolled forward onto a lift where the stock primary muffler was removed and a primary muffler by-pass pipe was installed. The car was then rolled back onto the dyno and a second run was made.
The addition of just the pipe resulted in a gain of 9.5 horsepower. I do not have the sheet in front of me so I can't comment on where that power gain started and what the gains were in the RPM range where you spend most of the time but I do recall that it gained all the way across the board but sis see the best increase up higher in the RPM band.
Michael
Earlier this year our region (Riesentoter) went to AWE Tuning for a charity Dyno day. One of the guys was interested in a "cup pipe" primary muffler bypass pipe as well as finding out how much power his C4 was putting to the ground. Part of the attraction to AWE is that they have a four wheel chassis dyno. Add to this they build exhaust systems and you have a wonderful importunity to answer a couple of questions that seems to get thrown out during these upgrade discussion's.
Anyway, I'll cut to the chase. The car was run on the dyno and data captured. The car was then rolled forward onto a lift where the stock primary muffler was removed and a primary muffler by-pass pipe was installed. The car was then rolled back onto the dyno and a second run was made.
The addition of just the pipe resulted in a gain of 9.5 horsepower. I do not have the sheet in front of me so I can't comment on where that power gain started and what the gains were in the RPM range where you spend most of the time but I do recall that it gained all the way across the board but sis see the best increase up higher in the RPM band.
Michael