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It terminates into the back of the airbox rather than the plenum. You'll definitely want to route that hose back into the system. I suppose that it doesn't matter where on the intake tract that you plumb it back in as you're running a map sensor. Leaving it open will purge the fuel fumes directly into the engine bay. Assuming the kit keeps that functionality?
Ah, RobT has it right- his pic shows the connection *from* the charcoal canister. The line to the airbox is just a fresh air intake *to* the canister. You still need an air filter on the fresh air line. A cheap breather filter would probably work as long as it's large enough to not get dirty and clogged over time.
Just checking through the ECU parameters and I think the reference to Vtec here is the resonance flap. It turns on at 5,700 rpm and turns off at 5,500 rpm. I will research whether that is turning on early enough as I thought the OE system switches on at 5,500 rpm.
honestly, thanks for the write up!, yours and Rob's notes have really got me thinking about this setup, i have a 997RS TB lying about and I think if I went this way (from my very good SW chip setup), I would want to ditch all the gubbins including the ISV, throttle cable etc so just asking if it is possible
so overall, was this worth the spend? Is is this more for Track that street?
Hard to say as I have yet to see the real benefits given the resonance flap vacuum source hasn't been connected since I fitted it. I don't know whether to fully take responsibility for that omission or place some on SC for not covering it in their instructions. It was touted as a DIY kit so it seems strange to expect all people fitting it to know this critical step (why fit a kit giving possibly more power and risk actually losing 20hp by not correctly installing it?)
If I had a street weekend car I don't think I would bother. The SW chip gives a noticeable performance improvement and cost a lot less.
However, I think there is a place for this product with modified cars, cars going to the track a lot and people who like tinkering. It just needs a bit more knowledge than I had/have to make the most of it.
Time for an update. With a concurrent gearbox build finished the mechanic took it for a test drive. He drives a few of these cars and thought the car was still down on power. A test revealed a bad coil. The car was only running on 6 plugs. A new coil transformed the power output but I still have more problems to solve.
1. The car doesn't start easily when stopped warm, if I leave it for say 10 minutes. I think I need a new fuel accumulator
2. The exhaust if running black with occassional coughs of soot and backfires when changing gears at high revs. It almost feels like it is over fueling despite the AFR being high 12s at high revs. I think it may be the fuel regulator.
Both of the above would have been easier to change when I had the engine out but are not that hard to do. Just more time in the engine bay.
Looking to fit the WB02 sensor. Can Robt or anyone else either tell me exactly how to connect a wb sensor to the loom or alternatively what the PIN numbers on the loom connect to?
Please assume no knowledge is held.
I'm on the verge of pulling the kit out and refitting the OE ECU.
Right now I just want to drive and getting the o2 sensor connected is the last hope of getting this kit working for me.
12-16-2015, 10:43 AM
