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Top end rebuild questions for a 90

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Old 01-22-2015, 12:48 AM
  #31  
hockenheimr
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Originally Posted by Cosmos99
Nice to hear that. It would save me $800 not getting them machined for gaskets. That leaves way more room for $1100 head studs.
but I doubt it would cost you $800 to machine for gaskets....sounds expensive
Old 01-22-2015, 01:04 AM
  #32  
Cosmos99
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Originally Posted by hockenheimr


but I doubt it would cost you $800 to machine for gaskets....sounds expensive
That's a quote from a well known vendor.
Old 01-22-2015, 04:18 AM
  #33  
Duck
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My '90 is wet on cylinder 1 with occasional drip. At this point, I will keep driving it and keep cardboard under it for the drips. Did order the video to hopefully tackle part/most of the rebuild when the time comes.
Old 01-22-2015, 09:41 AM
  #34  
Enso
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I worked with Steve when i rebuild my 91, it turn out great, no leaks and runs great
i used 993 studs, heads where grooved for gaskets and rebuilt
I ended up doing a completed rebuild with sleeves and pistons
Viton gaskets and al new bearings

(Steve has invaluable advise)

i have this documented here under Enso

Glenn
Old 01-22-2015, 05:34 PM
  #35  
Cosmos99
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Originally Posted by Enso
I worked with Steve when i rebuild my 91, it turn out great, no leaks and runs great
i used 993 studs, heads where grooved for gaskets and rebuilt
I ended up doing a completed rebuild with sleeves and pistons
Viton gaskets and al new bearings

(Steve has invaluable advise)

i have this documented here under Enso

Glenn
Thanks for the info Glenn. Steve really is a asset for us all.
Old 01-22-2015, 06:40 PM
  #36  
creaturecat
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993 studs here, as well.
Old 02-19-2015, 11:19 AM
  #37  
RichPugh
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Default Ed's Leaky 3.6

Just figured I'd post some pics of last nights tear down for you, Ed

I can confirm that this was not just a case of "It leaves a few drips on the garage floor". That was corrected with the previous run of maintenance. If you drove behind Ed while his 964 was under heavy throttle, your car would be coated in a lovely mist of BradPenn. It was basically a SpyHunter oil slick spray function.

Hard to tell in these pics but 5 of the 6 were obviously leaking between jug and head. #2 and 3 were the worse.







Getting ready to pack these up and send em out. If you look at the portion of the heads where it mates to the jug surface, you can see where the top of the cylinder surface is clean and the bottom of the cylinder mating surface clearly shows where the bottom of the joint was blowing out oil. Quite a bit of it on 5 cylinders. Heaviest on #2 and 3.




Those air duct covers were FILLED with oil and grime.
Old 02-19-2015, 12:35 PM
  #38  
Cosmos99
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Also note the exhaust valve that was running hot. Most likely a worn guide. Did I tighten the lash too much on the last valve adjustment? No biggie it will be rectified.
Old 11-29-2016, 02:29 PM
  #39  
HiWind
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Originally Posted by Cosmos99
Also note the exhaust valve that was running hot. Most likely a worn guide. Did I tighten the lash too much on the last valve adjustment? No biggie it will be rectified.
apologies for bumping an old thread .. can you explain with reference to the pics how you deduced this - are you referring to the light grey color?
Old 12-02-2016, 12:54 PM
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18T_BT
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Originally Posted by HiWind
apologies for bumping an old thread .. can you explain with reference to the pics how you deduced this - are you referring to the light grey color?

Yes, that's how you end up with a burnt valve eventually. Look up how to read spark plugs, same principal.
Old 12-03-2016, 06:10 AM
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^^ right you are thanks!



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