Cyl Head machining recommendation?
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Hi all. I know that my oil leaks are not too bad (1 qt. in 3000 miles) But I just retired now and my early 89 C4 does seep between the head and Cylinder plus it looks as though the case bolts need attention. Also some of the hoses are oily. My early 89 C4 (non airbag) only has 75,000 miles and she really runs good.
I live in Northeast PA and after starting to do the tune/valve adjust, I think I should do the Top End now. Where can I send the heads to have them prepped (tool 9526?) for a new set of P&C's with gaskets ?
Thank You
Bill Kohnke
I live in Northeast PA and after starting to do the tune/valve adjust, I think I should do the Top End now. Where can I send the heads to have them prepped (tool 9526?) for a new set of P&C's with gaskets ?
Thank You
Bill Kohnke
#2
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You may not want to do that. There are differences in the old head and the new heads and I'm not convinced machining the new heads for gaskets resolves the issue or is better in the end.
Send your heads to Steve wiener at rennsport systems. He did mine and the job was perfect. Many others here will tell you the same. I have no head gaskets and my engine is dry as a bone. It's really only a question of the expansion and contraction of the aluminum and whether it has a perfect seal when cold, when the metal warps a bit. When hot it's all sealed. So we fixed mine with a small spacer on the head studs to take up the space and even out that expansion and all good. No weep. Steve did the heads and my engine builder here fixed them properly to the cylinders. Done. All original and no issues.
Send your heads to Steve wiener at rennsport systems. He did mine and the job was perfect. Many others here will tell you the same. I have no head gaskets and my engine is dry as a bone. It's really only a question of the expansion and contraction of the aluminum and whether it has a perfect seal when cold, when the metal warps a bit. When hot it's all sealed. So we fixed mine with a small spacer on the head studs to take up the space and even out that expansion and all good. No weep. Steve did the heads and my engine builder here fixed them properly to the cylinders. Done. All original and no issues.
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if "she really runs good"...??
then ID/fix the oil leaks and drive it (put some dang miles on the car)..75k for a 89 is nothing, it's nothing for a 2009! does it leave an oily hazmat mess on the garage floor? if not, leave it alone and drive it...and why do the case bolts "look like they need attention"?
as a once already "retired guy" myself, working on my 2nd retirement, I would not/not start playing with your car just because you now have the time ..if it's running good then drive it like you stole it.. and then go play some golf or summpin
of course I'm busting your chops but, through experience, I would not mess with your car unless it really required messing with..sounds like it might not yet
then ID/fix the oil leaks and drive it (put some dang miles on the car)..75k for a 89 is nothing, it's nothing for a 2009! does it leave an oily hazmat mess on the garage floor? if not, leave it alone and drive it...and why do the case bolts "look like they need attention"?
as a once already "retired guy" myself, working on my 2nd retirement, I would not/not start playing with your car just because you now have the time ..if it's running good then drive it like you stole it.. and then go play some golf or summpin
of course I'm busting your chops but, through experience, I would not mess with your car unless it really required messing with..sounds like it might not yet
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As for the through bolts I have some relatively clean oil on the sides of the case.
The previous owner had taken the lower cover off and the engine had been steam cleaned, so I can stay ahead of any mess with a power washer and clean water.
Usually I only have a couple of drops of oil on the rear bumper and license plate after a few hundred miles but since I got the mobile one 5-30 out and 20/50 Brad Penn in, plus a quart of Lucas oil treatment she does not leave drips on the floor. (Usually a dry floor is a sign of running out of oil) But I see oil wetness at the juncture of the head and Jugs on 1 and 6.
She runs like a new car and only smokes on start after a week or so of sitting She also ran well for the one DE outing at the Glen. I guess since I have the intake off and the valve covers off so I feel guilty at not going the rest of the way. Of course the cost is a bit much, possibly 3 or 4 Porscha units I think. The chief financial officer of the house hasn't been involved yet... Oh yes FYI in our club we refer to repair costs in Porsha Units, less to explain.
OK I think I'll get a leakdown tester tomorrow and see what it finds and maybe just fix those leaky hoses. Thank You
Bill K.
The previous owner had taken the lower cover off and the engine had been steam cleaned, so I can stay ahead of any mess with a power washer and clean water.
Usually I only have a couple of drops of oil on the rear bumper and license plate after a few hundred miles but since I got the mobile one 5-30 out and 20/50 Brad Penn in, plus a quart of Lucas oil treatment she does not leave drips on the floor. (Usually a dry floor is a sign of running out of oil) But I see oil wetness at the juncture of the head and Jugs on 1 and 6.
She runs like a new car and only smokes on start after a week or so of sitting She also ran well for the one DE outing at the Glen. I guess since I have the intake off and the valve covers off so I feel guilty at not going the rest of the way. Of course the cost is a bit much, possibly 3 or 4 Porscha units I think. The chief financial officer of the house hasn't been involved yet... Oh yes FYI in our club we refer to repair costs in Porsha Units, less to explain.
OK I think I'll get a leakdown tester tomorrow and see what it finds and maybe just fix those leaky hoses. Thank You
Bill K.