KaiB

For track use, a good idea here would be to toss (or gut) the p/v and run Pagid Yellows front and Blacks rear. This will get you pretty close.

I went extreme and run the 964 front calipers in the rear with RS rotors (yes I know) and use an adjustable Tilton bias valve.

Bill Verburg

A stock '69-83 911 S or SC had f/r brake torque ratio of 1.491, no p/v

A stock 964RSA, 1.734 below 55bar line pressure and 3.210 above, these cars can easily get better and get the rear to do more work by just removing the p/v

a stock 964RS, 1.713 below 55bar line pressure and 3.171 above, again, remove the p/v as was done on the 964 Cups.

993tt/RS front and rear on a 964, 1.659 below 55bar line pressure and 3.071 above, again removing the p/v is beneficial

993 front and rear on a 964, 1.604 below 55bar line pressure and 2.970 above, again removing the p/v is beneficial

if you don't need a parking brake 993RS on a 964, 1.426 below 55bar 2.640 above, again removing the p/v is beneficial

the lower the ratio the more beneficial a low stiff suspension w/ an effective lsd is

mkd944

Just FYI as another data point...I get no brake fade with my stock brakes, fresh ATE Super Blue (now Gold), Kumho R compounds on Cup 1's, Hawk HT-10 pads which I love for their great stopping power with a more progressive feel than the Pagid Orange / Black pads that I used to use. The Pagids also used to leave excess pad material on my rotors causing bad brake judder at times. 15-30 minute DE sessions at some hard braking tracks (Sebring, Road Atlanta). I don't track my 964 much since getting a Miata nearly 2 years ago. I run the same fluid and pads on the Miata too. YMMV.

Good luck!

RSAErick

Yes, in general the stock 964 brakes with fresh ATE fluid and good dedicated track pads (Performance Friction has several models) should hold up well at most DE-type track events under normal circumstances. The slight exception is if you have the older/smaller 2-pot rear brake calipers, which may not have enough pad material to dissipate the heat under extreme track conditions. What year is your 964?

I don't know anything about the Brembo brakes that you refer to; however, I would think that the most logical and straightforward brake upgrade would be one of the proper combinations that include the 993TT fronts. This requires 993 master cylinder and booster, and some other modifications; but is otherwise a mostly bolt-on option. Balance is important (as Bill V shows), but the braking and heat capacity is beyond what most mortals could ever need.

Goughary

D90 wheels will not fit over the 993TT fronts correct?

KaiB

I'd wager Mike, that it was the oranges that left the deposits. The others do not.

breljohn

Mine is a 1989 C4
4 pot all around then. Right?

RSAErick

Yes, from what I understand, all C4's used the 4 pot rears.

Bill Verburg

They do, plus they have the bigger 23.8mm m/c stadard and can use the 25.4 too if needed

breljohn

Bill, I know you're kind of he brakes expert on here
What would be your recommendation for my application?
Stick with my set up and improve pads and fluid?
Bid reds?
Brembo?

Thanks!

Bill Verburg

I'm not at all familiar w/ the current Brembo offerings

As has been mentioned ATE 200(aka blue) is a fine street b/f but is less than optimal for stressed track applications, If you have a car w/ really outstanding brakes that aren't stressed under track conditions it would be fine too but 964 stock brakes are certainly stressed. I'd first try a more track oriented fluid, SRF is best but Endless RF650, Motul RBF600 and others are not far behind, Here's a great interactive b/f compendium, Brake fluid comparison

Either 964RS or 993tt w/ 993 rear would probably be more than sufficient for your purposes, the bias could be more rear on either of these so, remove the p/v to help that. This sort of setup should be 1/2 the cost of a Brembo set.

I'd also advise against using holey rotors, use slotted for much better rotor life.

mkd944

You are correct Kai. It was definitely the orange pads I was running up front. I should not have implicated the black pads in my statement. I used black pads on the rears without issue but when I started using the HT-10s, I just liked the feel so much, I quit experimenting with the Pagids.

Bill Verburg

Pagid Orange are about the worst pads I've ever seen. I can't believe that anyone still uses them. I had them on my car for a few months years ago and thew them away. Pure junk.

Pagid yellow RS29 or black RS14 on the other hand are great products, alternatives to these would be PFC 01 or 11

KaiB

Bill, I've run the RS29s exclusively for quite some time now and am very happy with them.

How do the PFCs differ in terms of feel, grip, modulation and longevity...and price; might want to try, a lot of guys seem to like them.

breljohn

Reviving this thread.
I've decided to keep my set up and "upgrade" it
Changing pads and fluids to your recommendation - thanks guys.
Should I also change brake lines and discs?
If yes (not sure mine ever got replaced...) what should i go for?

Thanks!