a/c repairs (longish)
Hi for HOT S. TEXAS !
Well with it 95degF and 98% humidity, it is time to fix my a/c, 1991 C4 Cab..BLACK !
Bought the kit to change out the fittings from r12 to r134. Careful here, it is possible for you ( I did it !) to get the fittings backwards...LO pres on HIGH side and HI pres on LOW side. I spent an hour Sat. trying to load 1 can of r134 into the High side...thought it was the low side! Well nothing exploded but of course it was still hot.
Figured out that I had done it backwards, changed the fittings to match the Porsche manual and emptied 2 cans of r134. No obvious leaks I could find. The fan in the front left of car works great, the compressor kinked in just fine and now it is cold in my car. 95F outside and after about 15-20min of riding around the temp at center nozzle dropped to 54F.
BUT YOU CAN'T JUST PUT R134 IN AN R12 SYSTEM WITHOUT DOING A MILLION DIFFERENT THINGS FIRST YOU IDIOT ! That is what I thought also, but check out this website:http://members.tripod.com/~jbabs714/autoac.htm
So far working very well.
Thanks,
John
Well with it 95degF and 98% humidity, it is time to fix my a/c, 1991 C4 Cab..BLACK !
Bought the kit to change out the fittings from r12 to r134. Careful here, it is possible for you ( I did it !) to get the fittings backwards...LO pres on HIGH side and HI pres on LOW side. I spent an hour Sat. trying to load 1 can of r134 into the High side...thought it was the low side! Well nothing exploded but of course it was still hot.
Figured out that I had done it backwards, changed the fittings to match the Porsche manual and emptied 2 cans of r134. No obvious leaks I could find. The fan in the front left of car works great, the compressor kinked in just fine and now it is cold in my car. 95F outside and after about 15-20min of riding around the temp at center nozzle dropped to 54F.
BUT YOU CAN'T JUST PUT R134 IN AN R12 SYSTEM WITHOUT DOING A MILLION DIFFERENT THINGS FIRST YOU IDIOT ! That is what I thought also, but check out this website:http://members.tripod.com/~jbabs714/autoac.htm
So far working very well.
Thanks,
John
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: Prather, California: somewhere in the middle of the State
John
I'm in the process on chasing down a problem with a leak and I'm going to do the same thing. I think I will change my dryer because my neighbor said it's a good idea (but I don't know why!) I think the replacement stuff is a good idea, if nothing else from a cost standpoint. Also, in CA you can't get R 12 unless you have an A/C license.
I'm in the process on chasing down a problem with a leak and I'm going to do the same thing. I think I will change my dryer because my neighbor said it's a good idea (but I don't know why!) I think the replacement stuff is a good idea, if nothing else from a cost standpoint. Also, in CA you can't get R 12 unless you have an A/C license.
Hey Jerry,
Read here to learn why you ought to replace your receiver/drier (toggle down until you find "receiver driers"). The receiver/drier removes moisture and acts as a filter and reservoir.
Receiver/Drier and Other AC Stuff
Good luck!
Read here to learn why you ought to replace your receiver/drier (toggle down until you find "receiver driers"). The receiver/drier removes moisture and acts as a filter and reservoir.
Receiver/Drier and Other AC Stuff
Good luck!
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: Prather, California: somewhere in the middle of the State
Randall
A great web site is that Griffiths. Here is what I did. After being told that my system had a major leak, I bought a 134 changeover kit and some dye. I inserted the dye, the oil and the 134 refrigerant and turned on the sysedm. It immediately started working properly. After 24 hours there is no sign of any leakage. I checked the left wheelwells after taking off the protection shields. I was surprised, as I was mentally prepared to see dye floresence under the UV light all over the place. jAfter 48 hours, still no indication of leakage.
So I say, crapo. I should have changed the dryer. Now what should I do? Evacuate the system myself or stake it to my Porsche guy and let him? I just as soon change the dryer myself and save the money, but now that the system is charges with oil and refrigerant, Hmmmmm.
By the way, on the first test ride today, the compressor has a bit of a howl between 2700 and 3100 rpm. Is that typical? I've not had the A/C work since I got the car last August so I have no comparison. Next question, how tight should the A/C belt be? Mine seems pretty tight with little movement under a heavy thumb.
Thanks for the help.
A great web site is that Griffiths. Here is what I did. After being told that my system had a major leak, I bought a 134 changeover kit and some dye. I inserted the dye, the oil and the 134 refrigerant and turned on the sysedm. It immediately started working properly. After 24 hours there is no sign of any leakage. I checked the left wheelwells after taking off the protection shields. I was surprised, as I was mentally prepared to see dye floresence under the UV light all over the place. jAfter 48 hours, still no indication of leakage.
So I say, crapo. I should have changed the dryer. Now what should I do? Evacuate the system myself or stake it to my Porsche guy and let him? I just as soon change the dryer myself and save the money, but now that the system is charges with oil and refrigerant, Hmmmmm.
By the way, on the first test ride today, the compressor has a bit of a howl between 2700 and 3100 rpm. Is that typical? I've not had the A/C work since I got the car last August so I have no comparison. Next question, how tight should the A/C belt be? Mine seems pretty tight with little movement under a heavy thumb.
Thanks for the help.
Hey Jerry,
Well, that's odd. Still no leakage? How could the previous shop have R-134a going out as fast as it went in, and now you have no leakage? Oh well, at least R-134a is cheap.
I'm not sure what you should do now. You have the system operating (fine?), but you have the old drier. If it was my own car, I would be leaning towards taking the car to a shop for a proper conversion, with the precise amount of oil and R-134a by weight. Then again, that'll likely cost you around $200.
BTW, what are your center vent vs. ambient temperature readings?
Not sure about the compressor howl. A long shot, but perhaps your refrigerant and/or oil charges are not quite right, causing the howl?
Good luck, and please let me know how things wind up.
Well, that's odd. Still no leakage? How could the previous shop have R-134a going out as fast as it went in, and now you have no leakage? Oh well, at least R-134a is cheap.
I'm not sure what you should do now. You have the system operating (fine?), but you have the old drier. If it was my own car, I would be leaning towards taking the car to a shop for a proper conversion, with the precise amount of oil and R-134a by weight. Then again, that'll likely cost you around $200.
BTW, what are your center vent vs. ambient temperature readings?
Not sure about the compressor howl. A long shot, but perhaps your refrigerant and/or oil charges are not quite right, causing the howl?
Good luck, and please let me know how things wind up.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: Prather, California: somewhere in the middle of the State
Randall
Since I know nothing about the A/C system, I'm confused. For openers, I went to Pep Boys for the pressure check. Probably not a good idea, but it was the only shop open on a Sun. Maybe it wouldn't hold pressure because it was bone dry and not run for over a year. I have not the foggiest. I think I will take your advice and go to a shop and have the system drained and start from ground zero. If no leaks after three days, I suspect it will hold.
Since I know nothing about the A/C system, I'm confused. For openers, I went to Pep Boys for the pressure check. Probably not a good idea, but it was the only shop open on a Sun. Maybe it wouldn't hold pressure because it was bone dry and not run for over a year. I have not the foggiest. I think I will take your advice and go to a shop and have the system drained and start from ground zero. If no leaks after three days, I suspect it will hold.

