Why you should always do it while you're in there...
06-04-2014, 07:39 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Why you should always do it while you're in there...
..and why I love Rennlist. This is rather long winded, but somewhat appropriately so.
I spent the winter tearing the car apart, replacing oil lines, suspension etc., etc. I had lots of time and could leisurely order parts as needed and take my time.
Got it back together a couple of weeks ago and took it for an alignment last week. While driving home, I noticed that the temperature was rising. The oil pressure light was also coming on at idle and going out with some revs. A while after I got home, I took a look in the garage and noticed a lot of smoke. The fender by the oil tank was a good cooking temperature, while the front fender was cool. It was obvious that the oil thermostat was not working, although it had worked when I first got the engine running again. Being on a deadline for a track day, I rush ordered the thermostat and had it installed in time. Started it up, warmed up and the familiar gurgle of the oil running into the oil cooler told me that it worked. Through my research on Rennlist for the oil light issue, I found out how to test the oil cooler fan operation and determined that it didn't work on low speed. Another order, this time for the resistor. I installed it today (only another hour to do this, bumper off etc.) tested with a jumper and it worked.
Thanks again to everyone who has contributed their knowledge on this forum. It has yet again saved me. Just remember to replace everything that you think may need to replace while you're in there. It will cost more up front, but it will save you money down the road.
Everything off, ready to reinstall.
Oil lines all ready to go in.
No oil cooler, easy to get to the resistor now, but..
My troubleshooting told me that it was the resistor and this confirmed it.
I spent the winter tearing the car apart, replacing oil lines, suspension etc., etc. I had lots of time and could leisurely order parts as needed and take my time.
Got it back together a couple of weeks ago and took it for an alignment last week. While driving home, I noticed that the temperature was rising. The oil pressure light was also coming on at idle and going out with some revs. A while after I got home, I took a look in the garage and noticed a lot of smoke. The fender by the oil tank was a good cooking temperature, while the front fender was cool. It was obvious that the oil thermostat was not working, although it had worked when I first got the engine running again. Being on a deadline for a track day, I rush ordered the thermostat and had it installed in time. Started it up, warmed up and the familiar gurgle of the oil running into the oil cooler told me that it worked. Through my research on Rennlist for the oil light issue, I found out how to test the oil cooler fan operation and determined that it didn't work on low speed. Another order, this time for the resistor. I installed it today (only another hour to do this, bumper off etc.) tested with a jumper and it worked.
Thanks again to everyone who has contributed their knowledge on this forum. It has yet again saved me. Just remember to replace everything that you think may need to replace while you're in there. It will cost more up front, but it will save you money down the road.
Everything off, ready to reinstall.
Oil lines all ready to go in.
No oil cooler, easy to get to the resistor now, but..
My troubleshooting told me that it was the resistor and this confirmed it.
06-05-2014, 04:05 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Did you buy new guts or a whole new thermostat? Any idea why the original suddenly stopped working?
I have suspicions that something is up with mine.
Anybody know if it is at all possible to assemble the internals of the stat the wrong way round. By this I mean putting the plunger valve in first before the spring? (see parts labeled 13)
Reason I ask is that I cannot remember the order I assembled mine
and I'm pretty sure I have oil flow through the long pipes to the front on cold startup.
I have suspicions that something is up with mine.
Anybody know if it is at all possible to assemble the internals of the stat the wrong way round. By this I mean putting the plunger valve in first before the spring? (see parts labeled 13)
Reason I ask is that I cannot remember the order I assembled mine
and I'm pretty sure I have oil flow through the long pipes to the front on cold startup.
06-05-2014, 08:47 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just the internals and a new o-ring. Not sure why it stopped working except for old age.
If you're not sure about yours, pull it out and check (or replace it!). I managed to change mine out with the loss of only a half litre of oil. The real pain is that you need to pull the sill cover off, not just the shark fin.
If you're not sure about yours, pull it out and check (or replace it!). I managed to change mine out with the loss of only a half litre of oil. The real pain is that you need to pull the sill cover off, not just the shark fin.
06-05-2014, 09:20 AM
#4
IHI KING!
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Sage advice. I have learned the same thing. Do it right, once. My engine rebuild project took a lot longer than expected, because I kept finding more things to do "while I'm in there".