Engine cutting out
#16
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks bill, I'll look into that at some point for sure...
Yeah vandit I remember when the stack seals on yours were gone. When I did my top end build a few years ago, new seals were put in. Also new o2 sensor, and new everything else...except plug wires, hall sensor and knock sensors. I even had the entire engine wiring harness gone through and fixed all the issues there as well..
So far so good. I still have my hall sensor code, and the new wires should resolve that hopefully. But after getting the afm wires away from the hoses behind them, and cleaning the afm and checking grounds yesterday. It's only happened once...so maybe I found it?
Yeah vandit I remember when the stack seals on yours were gone. When I did my top end build a few years ago, new seals were put in. Also new o2 sensor, and new everything else...except plug wires, hall sensor and knock sensors. I even had the entire engine wiring harness gone through and fixed all the issues there as well..
So far so good. I still have my hall sensor code, and the new wires should resolve that hopefully. But after getting the afm wires away from the hoses behind them, and cleaning the afm and checking grounds yesterday. It's only happened once...so maybe I found it?
#17
I had a similar issue; not quite the same. Cut outs for less than a second under acceleration. Particularly after spirited driving. Turned out to be a bad O2 sensor connection. Reseated and all's be right ever since.
#18
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Other grounds?
I had a very similar problem when I bought my car eight years ago. I ofund that most of the component/chassis ground points had a small amount of white oxidation. My car had been sitting for two years before I bought it. Behind your coils is are two (?) brown wires that go to ground. I can't remembr, but there are several both in the rear and in the frunk that I cleaned and reconnected during a 1/2 day "grounding" marathon. It stopped the intermittent stalling/dying issue. Best of luck, I feel your frustration.
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
I thought maybe I had gotten in, but then this am it was wet out and it stalled repeatedly for a half hour. Then this afternoon it was sunny and dry and didn't do it once.
#20
Race Car
Thread Starter
I began to do plug wires today and found that a bunch of my connectors are shot. I am trying to reuse my connectors to save a bit. Does anyone have an old set of wires I could cannibalise?
I haven't gotten all the wires out and apart yet, so I don't know exactly how many connectors are toast. But some of these are pretty bad. One wire, cylinder 5 lower wasn't even screwed in properly And has been eating the inside of the boot and corroding itself.
I haven't gotten all the wires out and apart yet, so I don't know exactly how many connectors are toast. But some of these are pretty bad. One wire, cylinder 5 lower wasn't even screwed in properly And has been eating the inside of the boot and corroding itself.
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
I was able to cobble it back together with some non-964 plug ends...temporarily.
I need to find four ends for the plug sides and two ends for the distributer cap side...but for now it should run....
I'm switching from cup to g pipe and the g pipe goes in tomorow, then the whole thing comes down off the jack stands and fingers crossed that I got the firing orders all correct!
I need to find four ends for the plug sides and two ends for the distributer cap side...but for now it should run....
I'm switching from cup to g pipe and the g pipe goes in tomorow, then the whole thing comes down off the jack stands and fingers crossed that I got the firing orders all correct!
#23
Race Car
Thread Starter
Yeah thanks all that chimed in. Ran the car all day today with no hall sensor code, no gurgles, coughs, sputters or stalls. And, I have a ton more power on the lower end of the curve and better throttle response.
Honestly, had it occurred to me to check the wires with a multimeter in the past, I would have seen that a few were dead. But all good. Onto the next...gas smell in frunk? Or leaky steering rack? Or bushings? Or....
Honestly, had it occurred to me to check the wires with a multimeter in the past, I would have seen that a few were dead. But all good. Onto the next...gas smell in frunk? Or leaky steering rack? Or bushings? Or....
#24
I am having exactly the same issue. I has only happened to me a few times and only happens if I let the idle drop to where it would regularly idle. I can always smell the difference in the smell of the exhaust when it happens. It will usually clear up if I take it on the highway and drive it for a while at higher speed where the idle never gets a chance to go down to just idle. It has brand newer wires, plugs and router. any ideas would be appreciated. Check engine light comes on when it happens. I can drive for days and not have it happen. when it does happen I have to keep my foot on the gas when coming to a stop so the car idle doesnt drop too far.
#25
Yeah thanks all that chimed in. Ran the car all day today with no hall sensor code, no gurgles, coughs, sputters or stalls. And, I have a ton more power on the lower end of the curve and better throttle response.
Honestly, had it occurred to me to check the wires with a multimeter in the past, I would have seen that a few were dead. But all good. Onto the next...gas smell in frunk? Or leaky steering rack? Or bushings? Or....
Honestly, had it occurred to me to check the wires with a multimeter in the past, I would have seen that a few were dead. But all good. Onto the next...gas smell in frunk? Or leaky steering rack? Or bushings? Or....
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...placement.html
#26
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks jpar
I'm pretty sure that's my issue. My build date is August 1990, though the car was sold as a 91...so I'm pretty sure that unless someone upgraded along the way, that I have the earlier fill neck. If I don't fill the car over 3/4 tank it's not too bad until I make a hard right hand turn....after that all bets are off...no smoking anywhere near the car...lol...
I'm pretty sure that's my issue. My build date is August 1990, though the car was sold as a 91...so I'm pretty sure that unless someone upgraded along the way, that I have the earlier fill neck. If I don't fill the car over 3/4 tank it's not too bad until I make a hard right hand turn....after that all bets are off...no smoking anywhere near the car...lol...
#27
Three Wheelin'
Just a fyi, I had a similar issue and it was the batt cable/harmess that goes from out of engine tray. It was chaffed and rubbing the chassis. Did not notice until motor was out of the car.