ras62

A very good point Rob. The KW are monoball mounted at the rear anyway and dont suffer from vibration or being too hard imo. I imagine at the front they would work but obviously there has to be some compromise on comfort, maybe that could be offset somewhat with running the dampers a little softer. There is always a good market for second hand parts if you went ahead and later decided they were not acceptable...

robt964

Just been out looking at the top mount. My earlier suggestion of moving the studs to offset the location is a no-go. The part of the top mount that protrudes through the body is a very snug fit in the hole, no room. I'll give KW a quick call but this is looking like something I'll just live with and probably never notice anyway

robt964

For the record, with all the poking around this weekend I also swapped about the geo.
On checking the ride heights (initial geo done by JZM) they were slightly different to what i'd been told and far from even each side (I guess with new springs and bushes etc it can take a few months for things to settle in) The car was setup with full tank + spare tire + tools. No driver ballast. It looks as if the ride heights were set on the drivers side (RHS) and then the collars on the left adjusted to be the same as those on the right! I was surprised to see that this results in more of a difference than you might think. So following a lot of adjusting, driving, adjusting, driving, adjusting... etc both ends have been dropped and I now have bang-on RS+5 front(130) and rear(228). Then, based on recommendations from this thread I adjusted rear camber to -1.8 each side and front camber to -1.4 (the min I could get at this right height). I'll recheck caster and toe next weekend then just drive it more and monitor wear over the coming months.
I'll set front toe to zero or very slight toe in, and check the rears are still 0.20 total toe in.

STUARTQ

Rob, surely, if you have this problem and your car is accident free, others must have the same issues if as you suggested the 5mm is a manufacturing tolerance.
If that's the case someone who has set a lot of 964's up must have the answer.

Jcx

Hey Rob, do you have any pics pls? I'd like to see how the wheels sit with the camber and ride height you have dialled in. Also, did you corner weight the car as well? On another forum i have received much advice to suggest that corner weighting has a bigger effect than geo alone. Thx jcx

robt964

I don't have any pics with the new settings but I can take some and post them. The car isn't corner weighted yet. While I'm still fiddling around with the geo and not yet settled on values that will suit my driving style/usage there isn't much point.

Jcx

Thx Rob. The argument put to me is that you cant know if geo is good/right if you haven't first corner weighted the car. And from my research when you set the corner weighting your height will change and in the process affect the geo... Seems like a bucket with holes in. :-)

robt964

Porsche certainly didn't do this as each car rolled off the production line.
I recon few people could tell the difference between a corner weighted car or not on the road, and I include myself in that bracket

Jcx

Mummy very logical response re Porsche and production line. The feel of a car is a very personal thing unless the setup is just plain wrong.

Why did you add the heavy camber to the front? Does that aid turn in. Counter under steer?

robt964

>Why did you add the heavy camber to the front?

It's a by-product of lowering the suspension. KWV3's do have an adjustable cam-bolt where it fixes to the upright to counter some of this, but it's of limited range. -1.4 isn't that heavy but its the minimum camber I could achieve at this ride height (RS+5) so I won't be going any lower. I actually recon I'll end up coming back up to RS+10 which will bring me back into the -1.2-3 range. But before I do that I want to see if I suffer any adverse wear for my driving style.

Jcx

Gotcha. I have RS+5 also and at the front i have about -15'-20' camber on the front. BUT i have Bilstein HDs unlike your KWV3s so assume that the Billys allow for less camber in their setup.

robt964

Wow that is considerably less. I assume they don't use the stock top mounts then, otherwise can't see how they can reduce the camber to that amount.

Jcx

It is using std 964 top mounts. I don't know enough about it all to understand how or why such an upright setting is possible.

robt964

A few pictures of the shock, upright and top mounts will help explain this. Willing to be proved wrong but from what I read on this forum and experimenting, its not possible with stock non-rs parts to get that little camber at that low right height. If you are, I want to see and copy it

GazC2

I have a fair difference in the rear shocks on mine where there is about 10mm difference to where the collars are at the bottom of the spring to get the levels right side to side, no evidence of any issues anywhere on what would cause this the guy that set it up said it was not unusual to see a difference side to side.