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Progress has been very, very slow mainly due to other commitments and a seemingly never ending list of motorsports events to get side-tracked by…
The heads came back from the machine shop with new valve guides and refaced valves, they also fitted a helicoil in order to replace a broken head stud. The oil splash tube stoppers have been drilled and pulled, the tube given a clean out and new stoppers fitted.
With the rocker shafts shod with the RSR seals the engine is starting to come together now.
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New timing chains and chain ramps/guides
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After much blood sweat and tears the oil tank is out, the bottom part of the cotton reel fittings had become one with the brackets so I had to cut them off with a Dremmel. I’ve sent the tank off to be cleaned and decided to replace all the rubber hoses, it’s more out of the contingency fund but it will probably save me from a long-winded job later down the line.
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Well it’s been a while since I’ve updated the thread. Project “wedding” has rather impacted my documentation of Project “Engine”.
So in-between my nuptials we have managed to get the engine back in and fired it up and then on friday I finally took the car for an MOT.
Whilst not an exhaustive list , here are the greatest hits of the seemingly never-ending pile of parts replaced/rebuilt
Main Bearings
Big End Bearings
Supertec Headstuds
Conrod bushes
RSR Rocker shaft seals
Piston Rings
Valve Guides
Valve springs
New continuous timing Chains
Timing chain ramps and guides
Power Steering Belt
Cylinder head temperature sensor
O2 Sensor
rebuild starter
Reconditioned Alternator
New Fan Belt
Fuel Injector seals
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
replace Clutch
Clutch Slave
NineMeister diff seals kit
Replace LWF with LUK DMF
Clutch release bearing and guide
Replace all rubber oil pipes (had Pirtek repair some hard lines too)
Replace Oil Thermostat guts
oil cooler ballast resistor (PO had deleted)
New Engine Tin
HT leads
Spark Plugs
New Dizzy belt
Bumper brackets
993 Engine mounts
As I was on a roll I decided on new brake discs and pads all round as well…
all in with parts and machine costs, powder coating/plating I reckon It’s cost in the region of £6,000
The most notable difference from the brief drives I’ve undertaken is the switch to a Dual Mass Flywheel, previously the car really suffered with stalling at low revs/reversing due to the RS Clutch and LWF. Whilst the ease of depressing the clutch initially felt very strange the car is much easier to drive in stop-start traffic, I’ve not been on a “spirited drive” yet so I cannot really comment yet on any noticeable lack of performance with the new DMF/Clutch, I’m sure that when it’s off the leash I will notice a difference but on balance I spend more time driving around town than trying to keep up with some of the other L9O contingent in the Surrey wilds.
Whilst the engine seems to run well I do have some annoying jobs that i need to attend to before I can fully enjoy the car. Frustratingly I have an oil leak at the back of the motor, I’m hoping this is from a chain cover and nothing more sinister, the Power Steering pressure line that runs from the pump behind the airbox is leaking badly - whilst patting myself on the back over replacing all the oil lines I completed neglected the 25 year old PS line…this is proving a real sod to undo without churning the 14mm nut to bits (round 2 is scheduled for the weekend)
As luck would have it the morning of the MOT, while reversing out of the garage the Brake pressure lights and gong went ballistic, I’ve checked the obvious things such as fluid levels and fuses to no avail, on the weekend I should have more time to diagnose the fault, I’m hoping that it’s not something hugely expensive such as the pump.
At some point I plan to reinstate the aircon. The previous owner partially deleted it, the condenser and pipes are still there and I have a second hand compressor I picked up a while back. The only thing I’m a bit unsure of is in regard to alternator pulleys - I currently have a single belt set up so adding air con will really put a strain on the electrics so I may have to source the standard pulley set up - more research needed...
Possible that the PDAS cylinders need more bleeding? That could cause the warning lights.
My new motor was perfectly dry, until I checked/adjusted the valves. And now I have a lower valve cover leak. These engines are apparently not happy unless they're leaking from someplace.
The high-pressure power steering lines are SAE sizes. For what reason, I have no idea. I believe they are 5/16". A hydraulic repair shop should be able to rebuild the hose cheaply. You need flare-nut wrenches to avoid stripping the nuts.
What did you do with your LWF might be interested if its available ?
It's in the big box of parts labelled "might need that bit". I was planning on putting a few miles on the new setup to make sure before outing any spares
with the use of self adjusting spanners (great tools, wish I had bought a set years ago) I managed to get the PS line off and my local Pirtek has remade the flexible section.
The PDT999 arrived yesterday so last night I plugged it into the car to look up the codes for the warning lights that I have ( Brake Pressure and a Brake Pad sensor) but no codes were present in the PDAS. I checked the Motronic fault codes and I got only one code returned, the dreaded error code 41 - control unit faulty...
The brake warnings aside the car seems to start, idle and run fine. I guess next steps is to open up the DME to look at anything obvious such as aftermarket chip that might cause an incorrect checksum. but I would have thought that the PDT999 would still get the PDAS codes regardless of a performance rom
I've taken a lot from this thread, I'm dropping my engine soon for a new clutch and top end re-seal. The usual suspects like tins will be covered too. Good work mate.
and whilst there did not appear to be any air in the system this appears to have cleared the brake pressure/PDAS light and warning gong. I've taken the car for a twenty minute drive and all seems well
I've not checked the ECU yet but I'm guessing I'll find an aftermarket chip will be the root cause of the code 41 error. I can get the ECU bench tested and refurbed with a Porsche chip for around £400. I'm not sure if I'll go down this route yet as the car seems to run fine.
and whilst there did not appear to be any air in the system this appears to have cleared the brake pressure/PDAS light and warning gong. I've taken the car for a twenty minute drive and all seems well
I've not checked the ECU yet but I'm guessing I'll find an aftermarket chip will be the root cause of the code 41 error. I can get the ECU bench tested and refurbed with a Porsche chip for around £400. I'm not sure if I'll go down this route yet as the car seems to run fine.
Sounds like you have been busy and glad to hear its all gone well. I've got a Wong chip in mine but I haven't ran diags on it yet. Think I will try it this week and see what happens.
I'll let you know when I start pulling the engine out.
07-17-2014 | 01:48 PM
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