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I was using that but found out the zinc was low, so then I switch to total classic that was only 800ppm. I talked to Steve Weiner and he said we need at least 1200ppm zinc so now I'm running lucas hot rod classic and that has 2100ppm.
what is the Rotella zinc level? i sent an e-mail to the Canadian distributor. no answer.
i used to use Rotella, i don't trust the newer (last 3-4 years) formulations.
Castrol no longer available up here.
bucked up to the Brad Penn for now ...... 18/quart - that's the "good guy" deal.
what is the Rotella zinc level? i sent an e-mail to the Canadian distributor. no answer.
i used to use Rotella, i don't trust the newer (last 3-4 years) formulations.
Castrol no longer available up here.
bucked up to the Brad Penn for now ...... 18/quart - that's the "good guy" deal.
Here is a VOA from a year ago..... 1140/982 found this on BITOG
I had a mechanic tell me years ago that he never changed the oil in his Ford for 100,000+ miles....but he changed the filter every 2500 miles!
i know a lot of old timers that practiced this. They pulled the filter and let what ever oil dropped put out, new filter and then topped off with fresh oil.
I think the 100k mile oil story is scary, unless he was using a high quality synthetic. Maybe he was building his business with stories like that
Oil isn't that expensive when you compare it to purchasing Porsche engine parts. Conventional oil has a service life and then it gets contaminated, loses some viscosity, breaks down, and then causes real problems. 100k miles on conventional oil is a lie based on a myth, wrapped up in urban lore.
Factory oil change intervals are perfect for street cars driven under normal circumstances. Since our engines have no roller mechanisms in the valve train (metal to metal), we need a certain level of the magical ZDDP to keep our cam surfaces happy. How much zinc you use is between you, your internet research, your mechanic, and your desire to purchase engine parts and keep your mechanic employed.
Edit: I failed to include in my post that I've used Rotella T for most of the air cooled (type 4 and 3.0 and under) engines that I've serviced, whose owner did spec something else. One of the PCA tech advisors, (maybe Allen Caldwell) said it had enough zinc to satisfy our engines. So far so good.
Last edited by A914MAN; 11-04-2017 at 12:36 AM.
Reason: Edit:
Love these oil threads, and after reading a bunch and looking at a bunch of others oil analysis, I switched to Driven DT-40 in my 1999 boxster. When I bought it and did the first analysis it was not great, probably mobile one? Second oil change was Modul Excess. Last 2 oil changes have been with DT40. I dont daily drive it, change it once per year regardless of mileage, cheap insurance, and was wanting to monitor some of the wear metal levels. But my mileage went up last year a tad and had a couple trips where the car was driven harder than ever, including a weekend trip to the mountains and the Tail of the Dragon with the rennsport dragon rally, and even though driven harder and mileage going up, wear metals continue to go down. Based on what I am seeing with my car, will be sticking with DT40.
Love these oil threads, and after reading a bunch and looking at a bunch of others oil analysis, I switched to Driven DT-40 in my 1999 boxster. When I bought it and did the first analysis it was not great, probably mobile one? Second oil change was Modul Excess. Last 2 oil changes have been with DT40. I dont daily drive it, change it once per year regardless of mileage, cheap insurance, and was wanting to monitor some of the wear metal levels. But my mileage went up last year a tad and had a couple trips where the car was driven harder than ever, including a weekend trip to the mountains and the Tail of the Dragon with the rennsport dragon rally, and even though driven harder and mileage going up, wear metals continue to go down. Based on what I am seeing with my car, will be sticking with DT40.
Kenny, you are posting a water-cooler UOA in the air-cooled 911 section. FYI.
Report looks good, as it SHOULD for only 2,600 miles. You should stop paying the extra $$ for TBN testing. It's always going to be good with the Driven product combined with the low mileage between OCI. Save yourself the $15-ish bucks.
11-01-2017, 02:00 PM
