Front diff input seal change difficulty?
09-06-2013, 08:58 AM
#1
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Front diff input seal change difficulty?
From the image in PET it looks pretty straightforward, though obviously the propshaft and torque tube need to be disconnected.
Any gotchas on this job?
Looks like it might be simplest to pull the diff and do it on the bench...
Any gotchas on this job?
Looks like it might be simplest to pull the diff and do it on the bench...
09-06-2013, 01:58 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Yeah it's pretty bad.
Front subframe needs dropping, leave the front suspension attached to the subframe. The top bolts on the diff/tube are best accessed through the gear lever hole with long extenders and a bloody big bar. And, as usual, don't round out the drive shaft bolts.
Definitely need to take the diff to the bench to do the seals. Drop the diff oil before you remove it as the oil gushes out the hole the shaft sit in - obvious once the oil is on the garage floor.
Diffs are heavy, maybe use an atv lift under it to drop it gently, it's sat on pegs in the end of the torque tube so you need to pull it back before lowering it. I used a Jenga tower of lumber and a 300 pound friend and it was dicey stuff. You need the car nice and high (I used a low rise lift so had about 3ft under the car)
Front subframe needs dropping, leave the front suspension attached to the subframe. The top bolts on the diff/tube are best accessed through the gear lever hole with long extenders and a bloody big bar. And, as usual, don't round out the drive shaft bolts.
Definitely need to take the diff to the bench to do the seals. Drop the diff oil before you remove it as the oil gushes out the hole the shaft sit in - obvious once the oil is on the garage floor.
Diffs are heavy, maybe use an atv lift under it to drop it gently, it's sat on pegs in the end of the torque tube so you need to pull it back before lowering it. I used a Jenga tower of lumber and a 300 pound friend and it was dicey stuff. You need the car nice and high (I used a low rise lift so had about 3ft under the car)
09-07-2013, 12:03 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
When I was doing the engine drop, the front diff looked like a bear to me. IIRC, steering rack needs moving too?
Mine is sweating, so I'm going to ignore it until it becomes a big issue. Then I'm taking it to my mechanic.
Good luck and post pics if you have a go at it.
Mine is sweating, so I'm going to ignore it until it becomes a big issue. Then I'm taking it to my mechanic.
Good luck and post pics if you have a go at it.
09-11-2013, 09:25 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Curses! Pulled out of the garage last night and saw a sizeable puddle under the front diff for the first time. Looks like I'll be joining this club. Odd that it popped all at once. I haven't climbed under to take a closer look yet.
Any "while you're in there" things to take care of? Do any control arm points need disassembled? Is an alignment needed afterward?
Any "while you're in there" things to take care of? Do any control arm points need disassembled? Is an alignment needed afterward?
09-12-2013, 09:56 AM
#5
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I'm back to thinking mine *isn't* leaking. My front diff is still nice and full, the fluid lovely clear red and smelly. The 'leak' is neither red nor smelly.
My PS fluid is also red. Dunno what to think.
FYI, the *output* seals are easy to do with the diff in the car. You'll need the half-shafts out (duh) but all operations are pretty straighforward.
My PS fluid is also red. Dunno what to think.
FYI, the *output* seals are easy to do with the diff in the car. You'll need the half-shafts out (duh) but all operations are pretty straighforward.
09-13-2013, 05:26 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
After pulling the front cover off, the leak is definitely coming from the passenger side of the steering rack. The rubber boot on that side is also torn. Still odd that it decided to squirt out all of the sudden. What came out was so dirty that it was impossible to tell the color.
I siphoned out the PS reservoir and filled it with Lucas PS stop leak. From a search, it sounds like some have had enough to luck with this stuff to put off a rebuild. I'll be keeping an eye on my garage floor for drips.
If I do have to pull it out, it looks like rebuild kits can be had for $50, plus new boots. And if I'm in that far then I might as well pull the front diff and replace the three seals. And I suppose replacing the control arm bushings is another "while you're in there" step...
I siphoned out the PS reservoir and filled it with Lucas PS stop leak. From a search, it sounds like some have had enough to luck with this stuff to put off a rebuild. I'll be keeping an eye on my garage floor for drips.
If I do have to pull it out, it looks like rebuild kits can be had for $50, plus new boots. And if I'm in that far then I might as well pull the front diff and replace the three seals. And I suppose replacing the control arm bushings is another "while you're in there" step...