Clutch Replacement Job - Price?
#1
Clutch Replacement Job - Price?
Hi,
I've had some issues with the search function the past 2 days, when I search "clutch" and get down to about the 4th page, it just shows no more results.
Quick question - What is the average price of a clutch replacement job including parts and labor? It's a 91C2 if that helps.
Thanks All!
I've had some issues with the search function the past 2 days, when I search "clutch" and get down to about the 4th page, it just shows no more results.
Quick question - What is the average price of a clutch replacement job including parts and labor? It's a 91C2 if that helps.
Thanks All!
#2
IHI KING!
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Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
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The cost can vary depending on what you replace. I haven't paid a shop to do it but the basic work is as follows. I would estimate $2,000+ optional items
Labor
Drop/install the engine (approx 8 hours time shop rate) ~$1,000
Inspect & replace parts as needed
Basic parts needed - ~$600
Pressure Plate
Throwout bearing
Clutch disk
Other clutch parts (depending on condition)
Clutch slave cylinder and hose ~$110
Flywheel ~$700
Throwout arm & bearings ~$400
Then you have the "while I'm in there" items like
Oil pressure sender o-ring
Power Steering belt
Annual service - oil change, filters, etc
Valve adjustment
Spark plugs
etc
Can I get you to reconsider doing this yourself? It is very doable. I have done it a few times and can finish it over two weekend days with the help of a friend. Edit: If its your first time, I would probably plan on doubling this time just to be safe.
Anyone - Did I miss anything?
Labor
Drop/install the engine (approx 8 hours time shop rate) ~$1,000
Inspect & replace parts as needed
Basic parts needed - ~$600
Pressure Plate
Throwout bearing
Clutch disk
Other clutch parts (depending on condition)
Clutch slave cylinder and hose ~$110
Flywheel ~$700
Throwout arm & bearings ~$400
Then you have the "while I'm in there" items like
Oil pressure sender o-ring
Power Steering belt
Annual service - oil change, filters, etc
Valve adjustment
Spark plugs
etc
Can I get you to reconsider doing this yourself? It is very doable. I have done it a few times and can finish it over two weekend days with the help of a friend. Edit: If its your first time, I would probably plan on doubling this time just to be safe.
Anyone - Did I miss anything?
Last edited by Rocket Rob; 09-13-2012 at 07:53 AM.
#3
Three Wheelin'
My shop quoted me 11 hrs to drop engine and install clutch parts. My shop's rate is $80. I priced all clutch parts mentioned by Rob through various sources and the total came to close to $2000 just in parts.
Plus there are so many while-you're-in-there things to consider. I ended up buying a scissor lift and will attempt it myself.
Plus there are so many while-you're-in-there things to consider. I ended up buying a scissor lift and will attempt it myself.
#5
Professor of Pending Projects
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91... you also need to check for updates on the clutch parts... If I remember correctly there was an update to the clutch fork and needle bearings... Need to go back to my notes to check.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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I've got my "explodied" rubber center clutch in the air right now. I'm not sure I've got it down to two weekend days just yet, but the Rocket is right on, as always, with everything else. I would allow $2k to $3k, which is the number I've heard most often. Maybe as liittle as $400, if you do all the work yourself and just do the clutch. However, consider this:
If you've got an "89 C4, clutch parts can be significantly more $$$, It's a one-year only design and list price for the clutch kit is $1,400+. You may get incredibly lucky like I did and find a NOS disk and pressure plate on eBay the day after it goes out and get a buyer to accept an offer of $300!!!
I wouldn't separate the engine and trans in the car as suggested above. Totally unreasonable if a C4, but I can't imagine getting the trans lined up on reassembly with the engine in the car, even if it's a C2. Ask any of us who have done this more than once - or more than 10 times!
While I have pulled 911 engines about 10 times for everything from complete rebuilds to just the clutch, I recognize that anyone who has done this did it for the "first time" at least once. If you try this yourself, and my recommendation would be totally dependent on your experience as a mechanic and your personality type, try to get that search going and read up here before you start. Simple recommendations like "get the car high enough off the floor before you even start - to make sure you can clear the bumper once the engine is on the floor" are very important to simplify the job. You don't want to be jacking the car up another 4" with the engine sitting under it. (Lesson learned, engine removal #1.)
Don't forget the pilot bearing. I've never had one go out, but for $10 for a new one...........
Valve adjustment and oil sending unit seal - definitely do this with the engine out. Also, servicing the half shaft CV joints. Maybe even rear shocks if it's time?
Dist belt can be done almost as easily with the engine in the car.
I'm not an expert, just experienced, but if you decide to do it yourself and need any help, feel free PM me.
If you've got an "89 C4, clutch parts can be significantly more $$$, It's a one-year only design and list price for the clutch kit is $1,400+. You may get incredibly lucky like I did and find a NOS disk and pressure plate on eBay the day after it goes out and get a buyer to accept an offer of $300!!!
I wouldn't separate the engine and trans in the car as suggested above. Totally unreasonable if a C4, but I can't imagine getting the trans lined up on reassembly with the engine in the car, even if it's a C2. Ask any of us who have done this more than once - or more than 10 times!
While I have pulled 911 engines about 10 times for everything from complete rebuilds to just the clutch, I recognize that anyone who has done this did it for the "first time" at least once. If you try this yourself, and my recommendation would be totally dependent on your experience as a mechanic and your personality type, try to get that search going and read up here before you start. Simple recommendations like "get the car high enough off the floor before you even start - to make sure you can clear the bumper once the engine is on the floor" are very important to simplify the job. You don't want to be jacking the car up another 4" with the engine sitting under it. (Lesson learned, engine removal #1.)
Don't forget the pilot bearing. I've never had one go out, but for $10 for a new one...........
Valve adjustment and oil sending unit seal - definitely do this with the engine out. Also, servicing the half shaft CV joints. Maybe even rear shocks if it's time?
Dist belt can be done almost as easily with the engine in the car.
I'm not an expert, just experienced, but if you decide to do it yourself and need any help, feel free PM me.
#9
Drifting
Not trying to spend your money, but a spark plug wire set replacement is much much easier with the engine out. If you plan on being a long time owner of this car and the miles are up there, not a bad idea.