Hey to you guys that just replied,

So Tor do I understadn that the Cancel switch should be a constant 12V until the switched is pressed, then it should drop to 0V? Skip in the post I was replying too mentioned the other way, but that is maybe why he had an issue and I have no other car or switch to compare

The electrical diagram for switch is all but useless so I can't work it out from that.

I really need to eliminate one part at a time before I start replacing parts.

With reference to the 3rd brake light, I did have one of those (LED) in the rear spoiler, but that was disconnected and all the wiring removed when I replaced the spoile for an original one.

All bulbs are filiment and correct wattage.

The speedo is working and Spolier is rasising at the correct speed, so if I understand that should not be the issue.

No point stripping the CC box as I have no idea how to diagnose that.
I beleive the actautor is quite difficult to test as well, but I will have the engine out I think in the winter so any words of wisdom how to test that would be great. The correct metal linkage is there as well, so its not that.


Anyhow big thanks to all for your help and guidance its well appreciated.

Alex

 

The diagram is simple to use and very helpful. The cruise control module typically fails when using a charger greater than 15V, e.g. using a charger which has a cranking power mode, or having a bad alternator.

 

I'm afraid I can't help on this one yet Alex.
However, for those not following my restoration thread and having problems with their clutch switch, I did manage to locate a supplier of an alternative to the OEM Hartmann F64 microswitch - but alas it's even more expensive than the ridiculously priced Porsche version. (I say this, because an identically spec'd but smaller version can be had for pennies).
If you're interested, it's here: Hartmann Replacement 107 in Lower Saxony - Oldenburg | Spare & Repair Parts | eBay Classifieds is now Classifieds (kleinanzeigen.de)
and is made by the incredibly helpful (but alas wholesale only) Switch-it Assembling company (switchit.de) in Saxony. There's nothing particularly clever about the switch - it's just a bog standard 10A 250V rated switch but with 17mm spaced mounting holes.

Z
PS/ Anyone who is ripping out their cc to save weight, please can you pm me?

 

Hey,

This is a bit clearer and I can see Pin 3 the Cancel (I think) going to the switch, but seems to Open Connection there as the other 2.
Tor I very much trust your opionin, but just asking, but do you think it's worth a try to disconnect Wire 3 from the stalk to leave it Open as the Brake should cancel anyway when driving.

BTW forgot to mention that mine is a Tip.

Alex

 

What is the problem you think you have with the Cancel input (pin 3)? The cruise control switch assembly basically never fails. Based on post #13, the Cancel function is working OK.
If all the signals, e.g. the speedo signal, are OK, then you have a bad cruise control module or motor assembly.

 

Hey,

Have to say that the switch is so simple I would strugle to understand why would it go faulty. One previous post as I mentioned says it was OC till pressed and I have no other car to check.
I opened up the cc unit but nothing obvious like a burnt out component, so next step is try and find a spare cc unit to check.
Tomorrow the car goes to one Porsche specialist, so hoping they have a spare unit I can try.

If not I will probably send the unit and actuator fotr testing at bergvillfx.


Cheers everyone
Alex

 

I've tested two (one old, one new) switches back to back, pin #3 are 12 volts, then 0V when pressed.

 

just an update from my side.
When the engine was just taken out for a rebuild, it was found that the main round plug that controls the cc had come apart from each order. After plugging it together all went well.

It would be very difficult to get too or even see from the engine bay as they require some force to plug those in a bit like the spoiler connector in the body.

regards
Alec