' BLACK BETTY ' - Car wash.
05-08-2012, 06:21 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
BLACK BETTY - Car wash.
I've been meaning to do this write up for a while.
I realise there is a whole section of Rennlist dedicate to detailing but thought this would be useful here as it's a simple procedural write up as opposed to an in depth analysis etc. I found that it's a maze of confusion as to how to wash your car carefully and so In case I'm not the only one here is my write up. Besides have you looked into that forum
After having my car resprayed I decided to take seriously how I wash my car.
Others may tell you otherwise - the following is just my opinion based on professional advice, usage and research.
Procedure
I use warm water through a pressure washer, as it doesn't shock the paint. A pressure washer allows for all the loose dirt to come off without scratching. A hose is not necessarily strong enough to get rid of loose dirt/ bird droppings etc. It's important to get rid of loose dirt before soaping as your sponge would push the loose dirt into the paint resulting in swirls. I start from the top of the car down so as to make sure all dirt hits the ground.
From here I prepare two buckets of water. One will be just be water whilst the other is filled with a soapy solution. The soapy solution/ body wash I use a PH neutral, one that doesn't harm the paint and doesn't contain any harsh chemicals. It's also one that lathers well and is very slimy so as to not create too much resistance. Two buckets: one for soaping the mit and one for rinsing it after a panel is done, so as to not take dirty water and loose dirt back onto the car. It's important to rinse the mit regularly. I use a micro fibre mit as opposed to a sponge as it's softer on the paint.
Using the mit - I start from the top down for the same reasons as before. I do every panel independently, wash, rinse and dry to stop water from drying and giving you dreaded water marks. I never use the mit in circular motions only straight and lightly so as to avoid swirls. Using a synthetic (softer) chamois and mirco fibre towel I dry each panel - again not using circular motions.
When using the pressure washer I keep a half meter or so away from any panel and again in straight motions.
For wheels I use a PH neutral wheel wash as our wheels are painted and should be cared for in the same way as body panels. I soap, rinse and dry these by hand.
For windows I apply a car window cleaner that won't damage paint. I apply it to a rag to better control where the liquid goes. Sprays go everywhere...
Once the car is dry I use wax not polish. IMO polish is abrasive and should only ever be used to bring back dull panels and ideally should be left to the pros and their polishing machines. The wax is carnauba wax that protects and shines the panels. My is so natural its edible - don't it tastes like crap
A good wax will last up to six months regardless of regular washing, after which it needs to be reapplied. I apply the wax with a wax pad in straight motions waiting for it to haze, after which a clean mirco fibre polishing cloth is used to remove excess and buff to a shine - again in straight motions and lightly. I also do this for the wheels - especially on polished rims as it protects from water and brake dust. A thin invisibly layer of wax will be left behind to protect the paint on any part applied. WD40 can also be used to protect polished lips - spray into old jam jar and apply with a brush.
I don't use any AutoGlym products as they use 'harmful' chemicals and have chalk in their polishes. IMO most Halfords stocked products are a no.
Result is a shiny car that needs no waxing or polishing for six months!
As said this is just my unprofessional opinion.
Good products at 'reasonable' prices can be found at RaceGlaze - no affiliation.
Anyway hopefully this is helpful to others!
I realise there is a whole section of Rennlist dedicate to detailing but thought this would be useful here as it's a simple procedural write up as opposed to an in depth analysis etc. I found that it's a maze of confusion as to how to wash your car carefully and so In case I'm not the only one here is my write up. Besides have you looked into that forum
After having my car resprayed I decided to take seriously how I wash my car.
Others may tell you otherwise - the following is just my opinion based on professional advice, usage and research.
Procedure
I use warm water through a pressure washer, as it doesn't shock the paint. A pressure washer allows for all the loose dirt to come off without scratching. A hose is not necessarily strong enough to get rid of loose dirt/ bird droppings etc. It's important to get rid of loose dirt before soaping as your sponge would push the loose dirt into the paint resulting in swirls. I start from the top of the car down so as to make sure all dirt hits the ground.
From here I prepare two buckets of water. One will be just be water whilst the other is filled with a soapy solution. The soapy solution/ body wash I use a PH neutral, one that doesn't harm the paint and doesn't contain any harsh chemicals. It's also one that lathers well and is very slimy so as to not create too much resistance. Two buckets: one for soaping the mit and one for rinsing it after a panel is done, so as to not take dirty water and loose dirt back onto the car. It's important to rinse the mit regularly. I use a micro fibre mit as opposed to a sponge as it's softer on the paint.
Using the mit - I start from the top down for the same reasons as before. I do every panel independently, wash, rinse and dry to stop water from drying and giving you dreaded water marks. I never use the mit in circular motions only straight and lightly so as to avoid swirls. Using a synthetic (softer) chamois and mirco fibre towel I dry each panel - again not using circular motions.
When using the pressure washer I keep a half meter or so away from any panel and again in straight motions.
For wheels I use a PH neutral wheel wash as our wheels are painted and should be cared for in the same way as body panels. I soap, rinse and dry these by hand.
For windows I apply a car window cleaner that won't damage paint. I apply it to a rag to better control where the liquid goes. Sprays go everywhere...
Once the car is dry I use wax not polish. IMO polish is abrasive and should only ever be used to bring back dull panels and ideally should be left to the pros and their polishing machines. The wax is carnauba wax that protects and shines the panels. My is so natural its edible - don't it tastes like crap
A good wax will last up to six months regardless of regular washing, after which it needs to be reapplied. I apply the wax with a wax pad in straight motions waiting for it to haze, after which a clean mirco fibre polishing cloth is used to remove excess and buff to a shine - again in straight motions and lightly. I also do this for the wheels - especially on polished rims as it protects from water and brake dust. A thin invisibly layer of wax will be left behind to protect the paint on any part applied. WD40 can also be used to protect polished lips - spray into old jam jar and apply with a brush.I don't use any AutoGlym products as they use 'harmful' chemicals and have chalk in their polishes. IMO most Halfords stocked products are a no.
Result is a shiny car that needs no waxing or polishing for six months!
As said this is just my unprofessional opinion.
Good products at 'reasonable' prices can be found at RaceGlaze - no affiliation.
Anyway hopefully this is helpful to others!
Last edited by Porsche964FP; 07-02-2012 at 11:55 AM.
05-08-2012, 06:51 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Cheers, Gary. Although haven't seen her in weeks and weeks and weeks - old pictures 
and I still haven't made my mind up. 
05-08-2012, 06:55 PM
#7
The 2 bucket wash is always highly recommended by detailers. I have seen other people use a polish only, and no wax, but I think his car never saw the road except for a show. And he ended up running our Concours events.
There are various buffers out there that can be used by novices without much risk to paint. The Porter Cable variety in the US is popular, and made a bit better by Griots garage products. They put a vent in the top so the product never gets hot enough to scorch or warp paint or metal.
I used to use Maguiars tech wax, but I don't think it works well for paint with no clear coat like my black '92. I'm going to be looking for a new product that works well with paint only. Eventually, when I have the whole car resprayed, it will have clear applied, and a few coats of it!
Car looks really good Frank!
There are various buffers out there that can be used by novices without much risk to paint. The Porter Cable variety in the US is popular, and made a bit better by Griots garage products. They put a vent in the top so the product never gets hot enough to scorch or warp paint or metal.
I used to use Maguiars tech wax, but I don't think it works well for paint with no clear coat like my black '92. I'm going to be looking for a new product that works well with paint only. Eventually, when I have the whole car resprayed, it will have clear applied, and a few coats of it!
Car looks really good Frank!
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05-08-2012, 09:07 PM
#9
I have been using 3M Hand Glaze (applied by hand) for nearly 20 years and it's a good product with solid fill properties. P21S Paintwork Cleanser is fantastic stuff that really makes paint jump. It has zero abrasives.
I have seen other people use a polish only
Frank, stunning car. Nice job!
05-08-2012, 09:45 PM
#10
Racer
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When I was really **** (and I'm not telling fibs) I'd run my hand over the entire bodywork with a running hose to dislodge the grit. On a 964 it can be done in seconds.
05-09-2012, 09:47 AM
#12
in case you guys are wondering, JayH has a queen version of the 964. He's entered it in numerous concours events and is constantly told he need to move up in class. His 964 is likely a high B class car, bordering on A-class.
05-09-2012, 10:16 AM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Glad to see you giving her a detail too Frank
Dont be too afraid to use a clay bar and then a paint cleaner / polish before your wax. The corect product applied every 6 months or so (with care) will do wonders.
Although some waxes can give a bright or wet finish its really the polish that gives the shine I use Dodo Juice Lime Prime with no issues and they even do a "lite" version for two stage paints.
If you did feel the need to move up to a machine polisher a duel action (DA) one can be safely used.
Chris
Dont be too afraid to use a clay bar and then a paint cleaner / polish before your wax. The corect product applied every 6 months or so (with care) will do wonders.
Although some waxes can give a bright or wet finish its really the polish that gives the shine
I use Dodo Juice Lime Prime with no issues and they even do a "lite" version for two stage paints.If you did feel the need to move up to a machine polisher a duel action (DA) one can be safely used.
Chris
