Hawk's Monday post- something to report
#31
Race Car
Thread Starter
CPS appears to be ok... no broken wires, nothing appears out of sorts. It looks tight to the mount. Inthe post you linked, it appears to have a gap, like a valve would. Anyone know the proper gap?
Thoughts?
dammit--- so close too. Found the vaccum line off the intake canister, so I hooked that back up. Nothing! do I do have gas out the exhaust, so that tells me at least 1 injector is putting fuel into the cylinders. No spark..... seems to be the culprit!
I did pull the clock too, as one thread I found indicated that might cause the no-start, but I'm having my doubts. I can hear the selenoid click on the resonance valve too, but Adrian said those can go bad.
Thoughts?
dammit--- so close too. Found the vaccum line off the intake canister, so I hooked that back up. Nothing! do I do have gas out the exhaust, so that tells me at least 1 injector is putting fuel into the cylinders. No spark..... seems to be the culprit!
I did pull the clock too, as one thread I found indicated that might cause the no-start, but I'm having my doubts. I can hear the selenoid click on the resonance valve too, but Adrian said those can go bad.
Last edited by hawk911; 05-06-2012 at 08:50 PM.
#33
Not sure if this helps but when i was hunting down my fault, the power supply for the coils comes directly from the ignition barrel on the steering column and continues to the rear of the car via 2no connections (male to female connectors) according to the wiring diagram, it should be a 2.5mm black cable. If you have no power there at the coil, i would then work back from here. There is another connector on this circuit under the seat so if you removed the seat to expose the connectors if should be there, (this should be under the drivers seat on left hand drive car). You could see if your getting power in and out of this connector?
This is where i found an alarm cut from the imobiliser circuit, but my alarm on uk car was wired differently in that an extra relay was used (see my previous thread on my isssued for explanation of this one)
As i found my fault here, i didnt go any further, but i think others did have some problems with the ignition barrel not switching this circuit on or being hit and miss.
Could well be alarm related?
This is where i found an alarm cut from the imobiliser circuit, but my alarm on uk car was wired differently in that an extra relay was used (see my previous thread on my isssued for explanation of this one)
As i found my fault here, i didnt go any further, but i think others did have some problems with the ignition barrel not switching this circuit on or being hit and miss.
Could well be alarm related?
#34
Race Car
Thread Starter
I've tried like 4 times to have people pull the module from under the frunk. I see a black box sitting horizonal off the fender side, not the dash/frunk side. is that it?
#35
Sorry hawk, not sure about the standard US alarm, my main alarm was not in that position of the car, and assume the ignition cut may therefore be different. It would be worth trying to find the cut to rule this out, there is connection t15 under the drivers seat and t1 which looks to be on the steering column. I found t15 and had power here, so my fault was at the rear of the car. Both of these are 6 pin connectors, wonder if another rennlister in the us could advise on the location of immobiliser cut (by pm) if anyone has replaced the stock unit before, sorry i can't much more bud.
My fault was this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-pointers.html
My fault was this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-pointers.html
#37
Race Car
Thread Starter
Sorry hawk, not sure about the standard US alarm, my main alarm was not in that position of the car, and assume the ignition cut may therefore be different. It would be worth trying to find the cut to rule this out, there is connection t15 under the drivers seat and t1 which looks to be on the steering column. I found t15 and had power here, so my fault was at the rear of the car. Both of these are 6 pin connectors, wonder if another rennlister in the us could advise on the location of immobiliser cut (by pm) if anyone has replaced the stock unit before, sorry i can't much more bud.
My fault was this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-pointers.html
My fault was this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-pointers.html
with or without taking the nut off that bolt right in front of it?
#38
Rennlist Member
I just read this entire thread, but I'm confused. I thought the alarm module in a '92 is in the same location as a '93?? And, I know the alarm module in a '93 is under the passenger's seat along with the radio amp and spoiler controller unit.
#39
Drifting
Just checked Adrian's book, Artie is right-on. '91 and later have a single unit alarm/mobilizer under the right seat. There is an external fuse. If something is wrong with the unit, the LED in the door lock buttons flash 2x per second instead of once when armed. The immobilizer 'works' by cutting power to the DME relay.
#40
Race Car
Thread Starter
and I think it flashes 2x per second... dammit I hope this is it! I have Adrian's book at home, but does he say where the fuse is?
edit: wife confirmed.... it's blink blink pause, blink blink pause
edit: wife confirmed.... it's blink blink pause, blink blink pause
#44
Drifting
but wait, the immobilizer cuts power to the DME relay, does the DME (relay) control the coils, where you are lacking power?
edit. DME relay powers fuel pump and DME itself. No DME, no spark
edit. DME relay powers fuel pump and DME itself. No DME, no spark