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The guys at Batavia Body Werx did a great job. They even check my horns while the bumper was off and replaced the hood shocks - MUCH easier with the hood off the car.
An update on my cowl repair. My Targa spent most of its life in CA and Reno NV. One year in the PNW and small bubbles appeared on the cowl. As soon as they did, I brought it in to the body shop. When I dropped it off, it appeared like the damage would be minimal. Well that is not the case. The damage, though not as extensive as some I have seen in this forum, is bad enough to warrant apiece to be cut out and a new section welded in. I am happy that the repair is going to be done right. My advice to anyone who has even a single bubble showing on their cowl is, get it in and fixed asap. Rust in this area spreads fast.
I’ve mentioned it before but I’ll reiterate that water washing these cars is detrimental due to the poor draining in/around the glass and seals. That might explain why a car that spent its life in a dry climate can still have issues with rust. Water Wash only when the car is extremely dirty, otherwise I would strongly recommend finding a waterless wash method.
I have been redoing my clean C2 that had paintwork on the rear end. I found rust under the paint where I never expected it to be. There were no sign of rust prior to stripping to bare metal and no damage to the paint. I am still scratching my head on this one as the car has been in a climate controlled garage since 2007.
I’ve mentioned it before but I’ll reiterate that water washing these cars is detrimental due to the poor draining in/around the glass and seals. That might explain why a car that spent its life in a dry climate can still have issues with rust. Water Wash only when the car is extremely dirty, otherwise I would strongly recommend finding a waterless wash method.
I’d like to get more hip to non-water washing methods. What’s yours of choice?
I water wash mine a decent amount. I used compressed air and then towels to dry. Do you think this is still an issue?
Mr. Wolfe
I would be careful with using compressed air as it can drive the water to places you don't want it to go. Have you tried using a water wiping squeegee aka a water blade, and then follow up with towels?
I water wash mine a decent amount. I used compressed air and then towels to dry. Do you think this is still an issue?
Mr. Wolfe
Yes definitely. Water can make its way between the fender and body (under the seal) and it may not dry out for a very long time depending on climate). Why risk it if the car doesn’t see rain or extreme dirt.
Originally Posted by Bigsix964
I’d like to get more hip to non-water washing methods. What’s yours of choice?
I’ll put something together over the weekend with a few options, likely a separate thread so I don’t take this one further off topic.
Rarely. It has to get quite dirty usually a wipe down with a detailing spray if only light dust. When I do I use a spotless water system so there are no minerals or anything that could linger. It must have been a microscopic pin hole or something for water to get in. I was shocked but glad I found it.
For a waterless solution, I've had pretty decent luck with Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine, not the Wash and Wax.
Just make sure to have plenty of quality microfiber towels. I'll probably go through a 15-20 everytime I use the waterless method. I only use this method for light duty. I haven't noticed much micro-marring or scratches in the paint surface, but I also have the car ceramic coated and usually topped off with a coat of wax.
04-16-2021, 11:42 AM
