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Best way, possibly cost effective too, to reset adaptation

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Old 02-26-2012, 10:50 AM
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aey_nattapong
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Default Best way, possibly cost effective too, to reset adaptation

Hi,

Just would like to know which would be the best way to reset adaptation on our cars? I understanding unhooking the battery may not work best for all car.

So, would buying a Durametric Diagnostic Tool for Porsche be the best way to go about it?

Thanks,
Nat
Old 02-26-2012, 01:23 PM
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Laker
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The Scantool available from Ricardo and TBennett will do adaptation.
Old 02-26-2012, 01:38 PM
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aey_nattapong
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Default Do you know how much it would cost?

Do you know how much it would cost?
Old 02-26-2012, 01:47 PM
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jimq
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jut get in it and drive and it will work itself out. If you put where you live in your avatar then maybe somebody near you will help you out with a scantool.
Old 02-26-2012, 02:45 PM
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tbennett017
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Originally Posted by aey_nattapong
Do you know how much it would cost?
FYI, our scantool is $199 US. available here:

http://www.obd1interface.com
Old 02-26-2012, 03:58 PM
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Makmov
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Originally Posted by jimq
jut get in it and drive and it will work itself out. If you put where you live in your avatar then maybe somebody near you will help you out with a scantool.

Yeah, not really it will set a base line but it will not dial into what the car needs.

It's not a smart system or one that self adapts.

It's just not true.

I got a Durametric, so far, I have been pretty happy with it and done everything I asked it to do. However, I have not needed to do an adaptation or a bleed the PADS yet. It is supposed to do it, just haven't tried it yet.

Down to one remaining fault code for the fresh air flapper motor, but I had a bunch of codes when I first started. Obviously I would have preferred a Hammer but I just couldn't find one for a reasonable price. $3800.00
Old 02-26-2012, 04:03 PM
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993James993
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What does it mean to reset adaptation?
Old 02-26-2012, 04:06 PM
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Makmov
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It's an idle adaptation. It is used to adjust off baseline idle speed. The DME will set a baseline idle, but some cars for whatever reason need to be adjusted slightly from that baseline idle.
Old 02-26-2012, 04:12 PM
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sml
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Originally Posted by jimq
jut get in it and drive and it will work itself out.
this is incorrect ... at least for my 91 C4.

i spent a year messing around and spending $$$$$$$$$ trying to fix an idle glitch. after a bosch hammer adaptation, everything was perfect.

and yes, i wasted my time trying all sorts of 'spirited drive' techniques and 'idle for 20mins' techniques. waste of time.

a hammer adaptation for 5 mins solved the problem.
Old 02-26-2012, 04:15 PM
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sml
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Originally Posted by aey_nattapong
Just would like to know which would be the best way to reset adaptation on our cars?
find a friend, mechanic or dealer with the bosch hammer. the adaptation takes 5 mins on a hot engine so a friendly mechanic is unlikely to charge hundreds of $$$. my mechanic would provide a quick adaptation for free.
Old 02-27-2012, 09:36 AM
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aey_nattapong
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Hi thanks all,

I live in Bangkok, imagine Bangkok's traffic and the 964 stalling all the time.

Mine has a LW Flywheel, but I have a SW chip. I've tried that spirited drive, no improvement.

My porsche mechanics has never heard of adaptation, they have a diagnostic tool but it does not do adaptation reset.

I would need to weight between Durametric or Ricardo.

Welcome additional comments.
Old 02-27-2012, 10:04 AM
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Laker
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Do you have a C4 or C2?
If C2, RicardoD/TBennett's solution is probably all you will need. If you have C4, The software on the Scantool can't bleed the C4 differential locks, otherwise the Scantool is a nice stable tool at the best price.

If you have a C4, I like my PDT999 Hammer clone http://www.928-ecu-repair.com/handhe...index_eng.html. It is 3x the price but does almost everything the hammer does and has software/hardware warranty support.

I tried Durametric on my C4 and was not impressed by it's lack of stability. Sometimes it would connect, other times not. Never got it to connect to alarm or airbags if I remember. It's price is berween that of Scantool and PDT999. Durametric, would connect to the C4 locks on mine no problem. My mechanic's Durametric set would not.

Also note.
Durametric/Scantool requires a PC, while PDT999 is self-contained. PDT999 draws power from the car and doesn't require a battery.




Just my personal experience.
I own a Scantool and am happy with it except for the C4 lock shortcoming.
I bought then returned Durametric cables using both end of life Ver 5 and still new/beta version 6.
I own the PDT999 had the locks done, cycled through all the 964 modules, and the only bad thing I can say is the cable is too short. Works flawlessly.

Last edited by Laker; 02-27-2012 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:54 AM
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Makmov
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Probably depends on Durametric version. The earlier ones would not do Diff Locks but I believe they are into the second or third gen since figuring that out.
Old 02-27-2012, 12:39 PM
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scped
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+1 on the PDT999
Old 02-27-2012, 01:08 PM
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Laker
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Originally Posted by Makmov
Probably depends on Durametric version. The earlier ones would not do Diff Locks but I believe they are into the second or third gen since figuring that out.
I had the amateur/enthusiast cables and could get to the C4 lock activation on both versions 5 and 6. I could not get to alarm or Airbags. My wrench had the pro cables and version 5 and could get to alarm and airbags but not C4 locks, it just wouldn't connect to PDAS module for him. Same thing I got for Airbag/Alarm.

C4 locks is officially supported in both ver. 5 and 6


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