Flywheel resurface source
#1
Racer
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Flywheel resurface source
Anyone has an idea where I should send my flywheel for resurfacing?
I am in Chester County, PA near Philly.
I am replacing my clutch with all new parts with exeption of the flywheel, which need a light resurfacing.
Thanks for any info.
I am in Chester County, PA near Philly.
I am replacing my clutch with all new parts with exeption of the flywheel, which need a light resurfacing.
Thanks for any info.
#3
Nordschleife Master
If its a single mass light weight flywheel and it is not to worn down , then yes it should be able to be cut .
Any automotive machine shop should be able to do that job .
How bad is it ?
Many people cut when they don't really need to .
Many shops will cut more off then is needed .
Any automotive machine shop should be able to do that job .
How bad is it ?
Many people cut when they don't really need to .
Many shops will cut more off then is needed .
#4
Racer
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I don't think it is that bad, no groove or scoring, just wanted to get the rusty spots and the blueish to smouth out.
Would it be appropriate to polish out with a 3m pad?
Thanks
Would it be appropriate to polish out with a 3m pad?
Thanks
#5
Racer
For what it's worth...
That was an option when I had the clutch done recently, but chose to have it resurfaced to ensure uniformity.
#7
Racer
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Please forgive my ignorance, but what exactly is a glazed flywheel? Is that what they called all of the blueish spots? Because i was told that if the clutch is glazed it will tend to slip more.
Thanks
Thanks
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#8
When they get real shinny they have been "glazed" They get really hard and polished up. Yes not a good grab surface for your new clutch disc.
and no it would not be approprate to take a scotch bright to it.
This one is going to need cut, maybe even replaced - depends on how warpped it is, how deep the blue goes, and how much material is left.
And yes, it is usually a machine shop opperation to cut a flywheel.
and no it would not be approprate to take a scotch bright to it.
This one is going to need cut, maybe even replaced - depends on how warpped it is, how deep the blue goes, and how much material is left.
And yes, it is usually a machine shop opperation to cut a flywheel.
#9
Nordschleife Master
Glazing that leads to slippage is more about the disk than the flywheel .
You are putting on a new disk and cover .
I would do nothing to your flywheel , the new disk will do the job .
You are putting on a new disk and cover .
I would do nothing to your flywheel , the new disk will do the job .
#11
Nordschleife Master
Dude , it shows slight bluing !!!
It shows no wear , and no surface cracking or damage .
If that flywheel was in place in the car and showed no signs of any problem , would you take the transaxle / motor out so you could cut the surface ? Would you drop the transaxle / motor every time the flywheel got a little blue ?
Machining has its own problems , it can introduce problems . If done poorly it can cause more run out .
It can cause clearances to change . Unless you are going to measure run out before and after you will not know if you are going forward or backward .
That flywheel has ever so slight bluing .
If he were to clean all the old clutch disk buildup off the surface it would be a pretty flywheel .
And I now suggest that he take a 3m pad to it just to clean up the surface so that another photo can be taken .
It shows no wear , and no surface cracking or damage .
If that flywheel was in place in the car and showed no signs of any problem , would you take the transaxle / motor out so you could cut the surface ? Would you drop the transaxle / motor every time the flywheel got a little blue ?
Machining has its own problems , it can introduce problems . If done poorly it can cause more run out .
It can cause clearances to change . Unless you are going to measure run out before and after you will not know if you are going forward or backward .
That flywheel has ever so slight bluing .
If he were to clean all the old clutch disk buildup off the surface it would be a pretty flywheel .
And I now suggest that he take a 3m pad to it just to clean up the surface so that another photo can be taken .
#12
Maybe it's the picture or my moniter, but it looks really blue to me. I am seeing way more than slight blueing.
I, however, agree if its slightly blue probably not a big deal. It doesn't look like there is much heat cracking.
And, no, don't be silly, but the flywheel is already out of the car.
I also agree you can introduce issues if whoever is cutting the flywheel doesn't know what they are doing.
I, however, agree if its slightly blue probably not a big deal. It doesn't look like there is much heat cracking.
And, no, don't be silly, but the flywheel is already out of the car.
I also agree you can introduce issues if whoever is cutting the flywheel doesn't know what they are doing.
#13
Racer
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Ok, here is the deal. I called around to see how much it would cost for resurfacing this flywheel. Most auto shop don't do them they send them out, .. and of course will not tell you where since they have to take their cut $$ as well. But in 6 places I called it ranged from $65 to $115. They all told me that cutting it will not garanty the flywheel will be within spec since they will have to remove some material.
So I though, I have nothing to loose,.. I would rather take my chances with a 3M pad and if the result is bad I will simply order a new one. At $100 to cut the wheel with no certainty that it will still be within spec might as well buying a new one. With a high quality aluminum level I looked for wave or bumps on the wheel and it looks very straight. The bluish is only at the surface. After polishing the wheel for 15 minutes by hand with a 3M pad it came out nice, no blue spots or rust.
Although I still have a sort of like dalmatian/leaopard pattern on the surface. Initially the flywheel had no cracks, no warping or no signs of distortion.
By the way, yes I am putting a new disk (996 part) a new pressure plate, new TOB, and flywheel bearing, new PP and FW bolts as well.
So I though, I have nothing to loose,.. I would rather take my chances with a 3M pad and if the result is bad I will simply order a new one. At $100 to cut the wheel with no certainty that it will still be within spec might as well buying a new one. With a high quality aluminum level I looked for wave or bumps on the wheel and it looks very straight. The bluish is only at the surface. After polishing the wheel for 15 minutes by hand with a 3M pad it came out nice, no blue spots or rust.
Although I still have a sort of like dalmatian/leaopard pattern on the surface. Initially the flywheel had no cracks, no warping or no signs of distortion.
By the way, yes I am putting a new disk (996 part) a new pressure plate, new TOB, and flywheel bearing, new PP and FW bolts as well.
#14
dont forget the updated guide tube.
Probably okay, at very worse it would just prematurely eat another disc.
The only way to know what run out is, is to put in a lathe or similar put a dial indicator on it and read what the change is.
Probably okay, at very worse it would just prematurely eat another disc.
The only way to know what run out is, is to put in a lathe or similar put a dial indicator on it and read what the change is.
#15
Nordschleife Master
That's a fine looking flywheel . If you were to use it for a bit and then remove it for a look see , it would look even better , the new disk will work it .